Just Got Myself Into A 6...

Lol... Sounds exactly like my speedo cluster except mine's original. Everything worked when I first fired it up, but everything has stopped working since. I have a hunch either the cable broke or the drive gear broke on the speedo. The darn gauges I don't know why they quit.

 

drill trick produced a bouncing needle...
goanna have to check T case end and kinks in the cable now...

purchased a "new" aftermarket cluster.. going to swap things around and see how it pans out..
I can deff see rebuilding a cluster in the future...

 

Been slacking on updates... I guess thats what the nice weather brings...
Cage has ben corrected to my liking and final push for assembly in play..
Most (90%) or mechanical and electrical have been sorted out..
still a short punch list of things to finish up, but its a project jeep.. its never really done..

Too humid to paint this weekend...
but I did get a good couple hours in sanding and degreasing...
having a 2 story garage with an access hatch in the floor . . . made cage removal a 1 man job...








Galvy parts came back Friday... all bolted back in and ready for this thing to come together by Friday..
I have a customer event and I made too many promises...
was able to get the tire carrier in color and Im very pleased with the results...
paint is 90 percent prep!!

 

not exactly and attic... its a full apartment up there.. "Guest house"
but he hatch is there as a provision to lift large furniture and appliances up since there is only a spiral staircase...

*Update*
painting tube sucks

 

Would have liked one more spray bomb for a final gloss coat, but it came out better than anticipated..
I can always touch up areas with careful masking..

 

x2 on the prep and painting tube. looks great.

 

A more complete update later this week...
but this is where I'm at after its maiden voyage....

the front is up on jack stands and I have some cleanup to do on my garage floor

 

ok, here is the long and short of it.....

I'm a bonehead... pure and simple...

I went back and checked, double-checked, even triple checked in most cases all the vitals of the car before its maiden voyage..
on paper everything looked good, mental lists checked out and I even torqued the lug nuts...
My first few miles of driving were pleasurable... no issue or odd noises.. truck ran great..
by the time I got 10 miles out I was hearing some rattling from the T-case.. Unsure of what it was I pushed on.. I was actually thinking it had something to do with a loose shifter or ???

Had a very successful customer event ... Ride home was very similar to ride out… all quiet and fine until 10 mile in.. I said F-it and jumped on Hwy…
Had some noise, but the tire and open air muffled some of the screams.. the real fun didn’t happen till I got off.
As I turned on my street I was soon engulfed by a cloud of burning oil.. several expletives and g-d damn its came flying out and next thing I knew my steering column was 6 inches closer to me that before (it’s not a telescoping column) I had no steering and was heading toward the curb. Jumped out and popped the hood …

My $15 Rock Auto power steering pressure line failed, didn’t break, FAILED.. The metal separated from the rubber due to a bad crimp.. oil smoke was PS fluid on a nicely coated exhaust manifold. As I pulled into the driveway I swore off my Jeep for a week.

1 week later and a few calls to SVE I started addressing the issues:

- T Cases need oil to stay cool and quite.. this would be mandatory, not a suggestion
- Speedo gears need oil to stop from melting
- Steering shaft U Joints should be checked several times after install/alignment/miles
- Lack of power put added stress on above joint
- Good things aren’t always cheap and cheap things aren’t always good
- Even if your to do list is crossed out.. double check fluid levels before doing something stupid

Front of the vehicle was up on jack stands to aid in bleeding the PS system. I also had the rear up so I could manually manipulate the drivetrain without any lockup. I drained all fluids in the drivetrain to check for metals and whatnot, that is when I discovered the lack of oil in the Dana 300.. I still don’t know what I was thinking.. I was very well away they didn’t share the same oil reservoir and I really recall filling it with the recommended 3qts….

D300 appears to have survived the ordeal… there really aren’t many bearings in these cases and the intermediate shaft and all 48 needles were slathered with Molybdenum disulfide, … I think this helped keep things alive.
I resealed and FILLED this time around all drivetrain components… Ran in gear without the rear driveshaft and I have 100% quiet operation. The attached video give an idea of the sounds I was hearing while driving… just imagine amplification and increase speed!!!!

Finally was able to road test last night... up and down the block reveled a working speedo, no drivetrain noise, smooth shifting in all ranges (once the oil started splashing around)
I'm going to give it a week of grocery runs to bring drivetrain up to temp and flush Tcase.
Also noticed the oil pan drain plug is seeping.. going to get a nice molder rubber one instead..














Video:

 

on the bright side....
its looking good

 

Badges.. we don't need no stinking badges...

paying homage to the Jeeps roots...
Vinyl decal for 'Jeep' lettering to be replaced by billet one I'm working on..

 

ran into a problem this weekend with the truck...
after 20 ish miles of uneventful driving I ran into a no start.. seemed the ignition switch was dead...
when key was turned to crank position there was nothing, not even a solenoid click..
after a few min of tinkering and waiting I got the guy fired and I was throwing a CEL and stalling...
ALDL conector not getting juice... scan tool would not connect..

Solution....melted harness...
96 deg heat and running around town... harness "fell" off the manifold and touched the back of the engine block..
no wires seemed to be damaged, but I'm sure the heat transfer and molten goodness caused a temporary short and caused the Howell to throw a code.. at least that's what I'm going with right now..

Battery reset and my ALDL now connects, engine runs with no traveling idle or stalling...
more "test" miles tonight

 

home depot trip last night resulted in having an intermittent CEL... But it was on when I parked it..

Code 22... THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) CIRCUIT (LOW)

Trouble Code 22 indicates that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is reading abnormally low. TPS volts should be close to 0.42V at closed throttle and rise smoothly in about 0.02 volt increments to a maximum reading of about 4.85 volts at WOT.
Code 22 will set if:

- Engine Running
- TPS reading < 0.25 volts for 3 seconds

Typical causes for this code include:
1) Circuit Open or Shorted to Ground
2) Faulty Connection
3) Faulty TPS
4) Defective ECM
TPS cannot be adjusted, the TPS has an auto zeroing feature.


I also noticed I have no parking lights at the moment.. but headlight, brake, backup, turn signals are just dandy..
My horn is also being weird... going off randomly.. I hear the relay click so I know its grounding in the column somewhere..

I figured I was working on the Land Rover when I was doing most of this chassis wiring.. Either a British part was used or the prince of darkness is seeking revenge... Checking all grounds tonight as well as a new TPS
Clutch might also need a heavier return spring and a gooder bleed..

 

Some follow up:

-after some hunting I was able to located the correct TPS for the Howell and that cleared the CEL
-I pulled my headlight switch and replaced the spade terminals with the stock electrical connector.. parking lights working
-Horn brush needs to be reworked/remade.. but I have a functional circuit

Ran into a bit of an issue today on the Hwy..

I experienced an engine shut down in +90 deg heat.
engine running a cool 200 deg and nice airflow at 60 MPH..

Fuel cut to the TBI.. I
'm assuming at this point is was FP related since after I pulled over and waited 5 min I was able to start engine again with no CEL or poor running.

I know vapor lock in theory with fuel under pressure is not possible, but that what it felt like..
didn't get a chance to jump under Jeep and touch FP or lines, but I think there is a decent amount of heat under there...

Anybody run into an issue like this?
I'm running a Howell TBI on my 360, external fuel pump that came with the Howell Kit...

 

I had similar problem with my Afi fuel injection system. I did install a charcoal canister and i did'nt have problem since. But i'm not 100% sur it was that.

Normaly the pump the external pump from howel is a Walbro GSl395 that main purpuse is for tbi.

 

Took the Jeep out again last night to pickup dinner..
Engine was "room temp" form running earlier and being outside during the day.
With sushi order and getting cold tempura, Another no start situation.
Solved by a few min wait and some cursing.

I can rule out pump overheating.
pump kicked on with ignition cycling.
I released the fuel cap when I got to plaza, no rush of air.
My current vent situation however, has something to be desired
lets just say my vent is via the cap only...
going to be working on a solution



Fuel pump is well out of the way and should have good air flow..
Mounted nice and tight, don't see any BIG issue there...





I am getting some fuel sweat here. I think this was done with my old flare tool and I might need to re-flare the fittings..
some heat shielding or fuel line insulation here is prob a must..
also will prob shield the lines from the frame to throttle body...
Might be obsessing a bit here, but if I can make it run right in this weather I wont have a problem again..
This Jeep runs hot.. everything is jut warm/hot to the touch..
granted its 90 deg outside, but the 360 runs where it should at 200 deg and aluminum from what 6th grade science tells me is a good conductor of heat..

 

I'd start with fixing the vent properly and go from there if needed.

 

100% agree...
however, the rear fittings need to be re flared..
if i'm taking that portion of the line down, wont hurt to insulate a bit from the muffler..

Ordered a new vent/anti spill valve from MTS (or similar to MTS) going to make one in the interim...

 

the MTS check valve seen below.. has anybody used? if so how did they plumb in relation to the stock setup?
I would imagine both vent lines from the tank to the bras fitting and the plastic fitting to either the charcoal canister or vent to atmosphere?

 

Aluminum , Hot in the Summer and Cold in the Winter.................On that portion of the line near the muffler I have found that a metal heat shield attached off of the muffler or pipe that has say a 1/2" to 3/4" air gap works much better than wrapping a fuel line that's nearby........The air gap allows the heat to be dissipated more quickly.