Just Got Myself Into A 6...

ohh that's for sure not the complete list... just enough to slightly overwhelm me and keep me busy for a spell...

It did drive under it own power last week... pushed it out of the garage to start motor for the first time, creped it back in Reverse and 2WD low

 

some light work done this weekend...
Speakers, head unit, and switch pod installed.
no wiring tackled.. need to shift focus to that if this is ever getting done.

 

Slight change of plans in the dash area...
I have decided to ditch the OEM style gauges in favor of an aftermarket mechanical water and oil pressure gauge.
After removing the Crown gauges all electrical issues seem to go away..
Either I had a crossed wire or something was just goofy.. Fewer wires back there and engine vitals will be accurate.
Originality will have to be compromised..

Lights are working!!!
Turn signal functioning properly, brake light and reverse.
Headlight and High Beams looking good... no goofiness anymore since double filament bulb was wired correctly.
I even got the green light in the Sparton and the correct directional arrow to illuminate.





Really like these taillight.. They are LED Brake/Turn/Parking/and BACKUP.. Single diode light is in the red diode matrix.
Really lights up the garage at least..



My Land Rover lessons are shining through everywhere on this Jeep..
Riveter was broken out for the aux switch panel.

 

Details on the rear light please, these look like the E-Ticket. Keep up the good work, I'm enjoying

 

http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=1&fId=57&pId=4095

everything in the peterson catalog I sell.. if anybody wants pricing...

 

exhaust all finished up...
parts of it aren't the straightest shot, and its not the largest diameter pipe, 2.25", but its bigger than factory and nice and neat. Shouldn't be that restrictive
The system takes a sharp turn up after the stock Y pipe.

Flowmaster tucked high up out of the way..

View from the side frame rail.


Hugs the rear tank clearing the bump stop mount

Exits the rear flush with the rear cross member.

 

Very nice! If I could make a suggestion? I would weld a thin steel rod vertically just inside the end of the exhaust. This keeps the exhaust from getting pinched closed if the end hits a rock or something.

 

exhaust needs to be tweaked..
under full droop the front DS contacts the passenger side Y pipe
I don't like the radical bend to tuck muffler up.. would ideally like a gradual slope.

But for the first bit of driving/shakedowns it should be perfect.... might even grow to like it.
good tip on the tip.. its prone to getting smashed

 

Jeep is still strapped to the trailer from the exhaust shop.
Leaving it up at the warehouse for a bit while I do some other vehicle maintenance.
Going to try and tackle some projects up there if time allows...

Have most of the material and the front seats for the cage and seat mounts.



Been thinking about the rear bumper / cross member..
Picked this bumper plate up for a CJ7.. I think im going to want and make this work..



Has anybody done any extensive work on there rear cross member of their Jeeps..
I was thinking about shortening the factory outriggers and replacing it with the rear plate, tying into the frame, gas tank skid plate and body mounts.. Looking for some thoughts?

 

Definitely interested in those lights! PM sent......

Great build BTW!!

 

some fab work being done while im working on the Rover....

New rear cross member being fitted to replace stock one.
this is a GenRight CJ7 rear cross for one of their drop down tire carriers...
Frame tie ins for where the shackle mounts are located..





Little bit of a teaser on cage... to be completed...

 

I have no excuse...

its been a long winter in Upstate NY, but I have a heated garage...
I have been thoroughly distracted with Rover work
Still have some bits to complete, but for the most parts my long overdue service and upgrades are done..

Need to get some mental organization on the CJ6....
Jeeps almost to the point where its streetable...
ran into some issues with brakes/cooling.. easy adjustments, just time consuming.
Jeep will be introduced to a trail this year, so I got to kick this back into gear...

Running list..


Mechanical
Brake Prop Valve (NOS unit)
-MC pushrod final adjustments needed
Manifold heater hose fitting (nos)
-Move Howell sensor, mechanical temp gauge
-New Coolant line to bulkhead
-Under dash heater unit
-AC lines
Washer nozzle in cowl
Hood
-Prop rod paint
-Hood catch, drill out and galvy
Tailgate
-paint
-Drill and mount latches
Roll Cage / seating
-Tweak above drier/passenger
-Seats mounted
-Harness mounts
ARB
-Mount compressor
-plumb air lines
Brake light switch
Front bumper ideas, rear tire carrier
Winch options
Wiper linkage adjustment
defroster ducting
air cleaner / intake
Power steering pulley, need OEM
5 lugs per wheel would be nice
TRE flip for draglink
E brake adjustment

Wiring
Dash Wire
--Hazard Switch
--Gauge
-Cluster
-Mechanical temp/oil
Hi/Lo Floor switch
Washer pump
horn
Directional
-weather pack connector
ARB wire
-switch pod
-compressor
Radio / Speakers
chassis, dash and engine loom (aka, make pretty)

 

looking for some ideas....

the way my cage and seats will probably end up mounting I will loose easy access to my under seat toolbox.

At first I was thinking the ARB compressor.. The thought of heat buildup, even without the lid came up..
Its also welded very well.. if I ever submerged it would easily fill with water..

Here is a picture the way it sits now...

any ideas on how to use this otherwise wasted space?

 

I would move that rear brace and hinge that bracket at the rear or front so you had access to that box........that is real valuable storage Real Estate in there........on that compressor I would put it under the hood where noise is not an issue.

 

I'd stick the compressor under the hood. Maybe firewall if you have the room. Mine is mounted on the fenderwell but mine is the next size up too. That little one you have is pretty darn quiet.

 

This is how i mounted my seats so i could access the tool box

 

its pinned in the front and can be tilted out of the way or you can pull the pins and pull the whole seat out.

 

That's ideal. I just don't have the height.

between the rather large suspension seats and cage, my seats are mounted to flat stock basically bolted to the floor.

workomgnon some ideas

 

Got the heater unit mounted..
AC and Coolant lines plumbed to bulkhead
need to wire AC/Heat on a separate circuit, thus another custom harness..
for a "painless" system I have been doing a lot of additional harnesses....
Had some issues with the speedo cluster.. should have those remedied shortly.. Issue with self grounding cluster lamps and too much aftermarket plastic...





Hood painted and on truck
hinges needed some reaming to remove the galvy and I press fit the 2 part hinges with moly engine lube..
yes, the hood wont be pull-off-able.. but it will be secure and hinge-able..
Aqualu provided shims to compensate for radius curve of cowl.. ordered hood rubbers and cowl/hood seal from a YJ before final adjustments are made.. (trimming shims and final placement of hood)