Coil resistor, ignition, distributor, timing HELP!

Ok, recent buy of a '62 CJ5 running an F Head. Right after I bought it, the engine would sputter randomly, and it would fail to start after it'd been ran for any length of time. Also, sitting idling it will slowly run worse until it sputters out and dies. Initially thought vapor lock, however I've totally ruled that out. It really feels like an electrical/spark issue. In the last two weeks I've put a brand new Solex carb, new fuel pump (which doesn't seem to pump too much by the way..), new cap, condensor, coil, rotor, wires and plugs. I bought the wrong points, but have freshened up the old ones that appear fine. Gapped the points and plugs. It's timed to the best idle possible.

Ideas?!

I've heard that an overheated coil could be the culprit. Am I supposed to have a resistor in line with the positive end of coil? Does your points system have a ballast resistor? I'm frustrated beyond belief, and totally exhausted of ideas. Sputtering is so bad that I can't take it more than a half mile from my house.

 

If your coil sez "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR" then yes you have to have one as otherwise it burns out your points very quickly.

 

Bought the coil from Walcks 4 WD, and the paper says "internal resister." I am going to trace the wiring, as it's all home done by the PO (and poorly so). But what doesn't make sense is that it purrs like a kitten when cold, with only the random hiccup. Then ends up running like crap the more she heats up.

 

You might also try replacing the resistor on the firewall if you are using one. If your new coil says "internal resistor" I believe that means you run full voltage (12v) to it, not the dropped down voltage from a firewall mounted resistor. Wish I could be more help for you.

 

Is a small amount of play in the distributor shaft normal? i can rotate the shaft under the cap a degree or four by just hand twisting it. Starting to think I need a whole new distributor too.

Also, I don't have a resistor already on the firewall... I hope te brand new coil with internal resistor isn't bad already.

 

Don't overthink this yet...

Check your plugs for oil clues fouling/color? I'd check the intake vaccuum too.

 

The plugs that came with the f head were black fouled, my new copper plugs are clean, with no fouling (yet). Also, intake vacuum? As in vacuum advance? Because this distributor has an internal advance- no vacuum. Thanks for all the help so far.

 

Also, I bought a ballast resistor to put before the coil, even though the coil has an internal one too. And I got points to install. Only problem is I work on an ambulance and don't get off for another two days!

 

have you ruled out a fuel related problem? Fuel filter or clogged fuel pickup tube inside the tank perhaps if your fuel tank has "junk" in it? Maybe a malfunctioning gas cap that should be venting but its not for some reason causing a vacuum inside the tank so it cant pull the fuel from the tank? I had a similar problem with my jeep few months ago and after installing a new fuel filter, removing the fuel line from the tank side of the pump and blowing back through the fuel line into the tank With the fuel cap removed and I have had no problems since

 

You don't want to use an external resistor with that coil. The resistor built into the coil takes the place of the external one. The rotational movement in the top of the distributor is normal which is the mechanical advance (spring enhanced). Any side ways slop in the shaft will cause a dwell change which you don't want.

 

Well there's no sideways wobble in the dist., and ill hold off on the external resistor for now.

Also, I'll try the gas cap and order new fuel lines ASAP.

Thanks again. I'm literally taking down a list of all opinions.

 

Add this to your list. A fuel pump that has a diaphram that's going bad will sometimes flow enough fuel for startup and idle, even slow driving. But once you put a load on it like driving up an incline it won't be able to keep up with demand.

 

"intake vacuum? As in vacuum advance? "

No, as in manifold vacuum to diagnose engine condition, leaking valve guides, obstructed exhaust, etc, especially given the symptoms you describe.

"sitting idling it will slowly run worse until it sputters out and dies."

 

Check the choke settings. Although with a Solex, I understand it is not a choke, per se. It is a fuel enrichment circuit or some such. Running good while cold and getting progressively ragged as the engine warms up sounds an awful lot like a choke plate not opening up all the way. Also what do you have the timing set to? May be too far advanced. And what do you have your idle speed set at? If too low it will act that way also. My F134 doesn't like to idle as low as some others do. 800rpm on the tach and she idles like a three legged dog walking. At 1krpm she is as smooth as a four cylinder ever gets.

 

Well it's a brand new fuel pump and carburetor. So I hope that nothing is wrong already with those. The idle is all over the place, but generally speaking over 1k it runs a little better, but more like it just has the momentum to get through a sputter or two.

I'll check the vacuum/ pcv ASAP. Which way does the pcv valve point (pointy end front?). It looks like my system has been apart, and I want to make sure the valve is together correctly.

 

"it's a brand new fuel pump and carburetor"

Anything new is always suspect in my mind, although people tend to assume the opposite.

Given those two items in combination, I might suspect your carb float valve or float level setting is allowing a slow flooding condition at idle. Just one possibility.

 

Another possibility is a heat related vacuum leak. Something expanding when it heats up, and a crack is opening up.
Get it warmed up and spray the intake area with carb cleaner. If you get a smoother running engine, then that is your culprit.

 

Just spent another 12 hours working on her with no change to performance. PCV lines are clean and the head sucks hard like a vacuum. Idle speed is right around 900, timing is on. New points yesterday... I tried spraying the block in suspect areas, with only one area that when sprayed, gave a rev in rpm's. Of course this was near the carb and I think it was just sucking in a little enriched air through the top (I've tightened and retightened all bolts). I'm about ready to scream! I'm going to take a video of it running smooth when cold, and crappy when warm. I'll try to post this evening.

 

"I've tightened and retightened all bolts" ... "one area that when sprayed, gave a rev in rpm's"

It is possible for the carb mounting flanges to get warped by over-tightening, then the base gasket can leak, no matter how tight.