confused about brakes and Clutch

Hi

When I bought my 59 cj I knew it needed work. I pressed the clutch to make it roll and the brake pedal moved down with it. Thought that was odd so I asked the owner he said its done that for years probably rusted, besides its easier to start on a hill. I had never seen that before and figured whatever I'll figure it out later.

So I take it home knowing the brake line is rusted out so no brakes. I also know the rear drive shaft had snapped so rear axlel is just a free wheeling trailer.

I drove the truck on and off the trailer with the front wheels locked in 4x4. no problem.

I backed off the trailer and the clutch return spring stuck. Ok its in neutral by default and I rolled about 25 feet more than I wanted to untill I stopped. No big deal. I manually realeased the clutch and put it gear again.

If front is locked and transfer case is locked and trans is in gear why does it still roll?

Also further inspection found the clutch and brake pedal are linked together by a rod. Not rusted. And looks original. ..Interesting concept...If the truck were in working condition, how might one shift up a gear to go faster with out also engaging the brakes slowing the truck down?

Is that supposed to be like that on old jeeps or was someone being creative years ago that I need to un-do??

yes I do know how to drive a normal stick shift

 

interesting description and sounds like quite an adventure. the clutch and brake pedals are mounted and pivot on a common shaft under the frame. if you could post a pic it would be easier to explain what you're up against.

Oh and welcome from SE Virginia

 

there share the same pivot rod , the brake pedal supposed to FLOAT on the shaft and the clutch rotates the shaft that moves the ear that pulls a rod that moves a shaft between the tcase and the frame the pulls the clutch cable sounds like the brake pedal needs to be cleaned and grezd up
Good luck from VA

 

What he said. R)

Welcome from Cali.

 

x2 welcome from San Antonio, Tx.

 

Mine binds a little from time to time. On my clutch linkage there is a heim joint (I think this is what is called?) that hits parts of the brake linkage if the bolt through the joint is loose. I know that is vague and useless, but what I am trying to say is make sure there is no binding from either the wrong bolt/joint being used or what is there being loose.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

I plan to look at it more closely in the next week or two. Otherwise I just blast it with PB blaster every morning before going to work. I figure it may be almost loose by the time I have to get under the jeep and start working on it.

Any good sources for drawings or repair books? I have the haynes jeep " all modles 1947-1986 book" by all models it means nothing important about any of them.

Also besides the brakes I am a little concerend by it rolling while in gear.

Again broken rear shaft(half the problem) however front wheels are locked, transfer case is in 4x4, trans is in 1st, clutch is out, engine off. It should use engine compression and trans gears as a brake. yet it rolls freely. Everything is definately locked. Turn the engine on and it drives on its own power no problem.

for now I have been lowering the plow to keep it in one place long enough to block the wheels, and I plan to fix it after the frame is solid, but its still odd.

 

Why buy a book when theres EarlyCJ5.com , the CJ3 page and vernco , some of these guys have forgoten more then most of them books have in them and they KNOW how hard some of these jobs can be and know all the little tricks to go along with the exp. To remove the pedal you need to remove the rear bolt in the MC and losen the front one. Remove the clip on the pivot shaft , you should now be able to move the support plat out of the way. Then you can go up top remove the bolt that holds the pedal peice that goes though the floor then remove it by pulling and twisting. You should be able to slide under the jeep and remove the pedal off the pivot shaft. A few minutes with some emery cloth and a little grease , it should be like new.

 

[rant]
Jason, I can see you have never worked for tech support. RTFM is the most common reply there.

There is one book you must buy - the factory service manual (FSM), also called the technical SM.

Personally, I feel you are obligated to read the factory manual before you ask for help. It's always amazing to me the number of people who ask questions on these boards simply because they are too cheap to lay out $35-$70 for the factory manual. Maybe not here so much, but certainly on other boards...
[/rant]

 

Tim Im sorry but I disagree the only thing the book tells you that makes it worth 5 bucks are the clearances ,, the rest the book is totally usless. Every one I ever read or looked at had explainations on how to fix stuff while it was new. I bought a book for my first truck 79 chevy I bought when I was 13 , the book prove usless . Ive redone a 53 ford ,77 ford , 72 chevy 71 super bettle and a 65 bettle all with out books. They need to publish a sheet of clearances and a wiring diagram for vechiles and forget the rest.

 

Sorry, but the FSM is worth its weight in GOLD - read it, know it, live it ... JMHO.

 

I'd have paid twice the retail value if the *$&%* idiot who reassembled my engine would have read the chapter I Xeroxed for him.

IMHO, the book is invaluable. I agree that some chapters don't come close to what you find online, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy one for any vehicle I was planning on fixing/restoring.


Just my 0.0250150 Tunisia Dinars. YMMV

 

OK ive been humbled lol Maybe the ones that ive ever seen are not as good as the ones yall are talking about. The only SM I even though was worth more then 5 bucks is the IHC tractor/combine manuals on hydrulic flow and eletric over hydrulic controls diagrams and charts

 

x2

 

I'm gonna have to say one of the first things I do after I buy something i get a manual on it. I may know how to fix something but the book often tell me stuff that I might not know to fix it right. Everything has value, nothing drops the value as something that has been jury rigged and not fixed right. I've got factory service manuals that I have bought over the years as diverse as the JD4020 tractor to the Porsche 911 and lots of different things in between,makes for some very good bedside reading if nothing else.

 

where does one get a FSM?