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Lift- axles below the springs?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Nealg, Mar 17, 2010.

  1. Nealg

    Nealg New Member

    My mechanic buddy suggested a cheap way to do a lift on our '74 CJ-5. He said he could relocate the axles below the leaf-springs.

    Has anyone done this? How much lift would it create and would it cause any problems?
     
  2. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Use the search function here using "spring over".
    Lots of discussion.
     
  3. Nealg

    Nealg New Member

    Thank you Patrick.
     
  4. Nealg

    Nealg New Member

    Why can't I use the word "over" in my search. when I search "spring over" my results I only get results with the word "spring". The results page says, "The following words are either very common, too long, or too short and were not included in your search: over"
     
  5. rixcj

    rixcj Member

  6. Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    Put quotation marks around “spring over”, just like that, and it makes the search engine look for that phrase instead of the individual words.

    http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/search.php?searchid=955358
     
  7. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Also try "soa" or "soa conversion" which is common terminology for Spring Over Axle

    It ain't cheap if it's done properly.
     
  8. and if it ain't done properly, at best its a pain, at worst..dangerous.
     
  9. dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

    I commend you for asking this question - you are at the right place.
    Much emphasis should be placed on what nickmil and Davidleontruet said above.
    Make sure you understand all the suspension, brake and steering requirements to do this modification properly! There simply is not a cheap way to make this modification and have a safe, roadworthy vehicle.
     
  10. jdarg

    jdarg Member

    Cheap and SOA shouldn't be used in the same sentence.

    I did an SOA on my YJ. Yeah its pretty trivial to cut off the perches and weld new ones on top of the axle, but then you have to deal with steering, brake lines, anti-wrap solution for the rear axle, etc.

    I probably spent about $1700 doing mine, with me doing all the labor & welding. And that doesn't include the bigger set of tires I put on afterwards and I also reused my stock springs.

    If I had to do it again I'd probably just have stayed spring-under unless I wanted to run 37" or bigger tires. I'm running 34's on it now and I feel its probably a little too much lift for that size tire.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2010
  11. Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    As stated above. I'm almost done with a soa using new Wrangler no-lift springs with Chevy flatop knuckles (the right way to do the steering) and I'll be into it for just under $2,000 doing all the labor myself. Of course you can cheap out and do the "S" shaped draglink, but why?
     
  12. theycallmefudd

    theycallmefudd New Member

    I can't figure out how you guys are spending so much? I can see maybe with new leaf springs, stearing box, brake lines, perches, knuckles, hubs, shocks, ect. but most of that stuff could be sourced through the p.n.p.. Does any one have an itemized list? just for curiousitys sake?
     
  13. Michaelo

    Michaelo Member

    I've done it cheaper on my 68 CJ and my YJ. Steering is where it can be the biggest hang up on price in my experience.

    Perches 4 - $60
    Ubolts- $50
    Shocks- $150
    Brake lines- $40
    Anti Wrap Bar kit $230
    Drop Pitman Arm $100

    So a little over $500 to do it decent. Could save money in several areas depending on your fab skills. I built my anti wrap bar for around $70 dollars with jonny joints and its more heavy duty than the kits out there by far.

    The best way to do steering is to probably run Dana 44 knuckles with high steer arms with custom built tie rods. Which probably would run at least $500 dollars normally.

    35 inch tires is pretty much the breaking point. 35 and smaller run SUA 35 and bigger run SOA.

    My yj is a whole another story on cost.
    RE spring over leafs- $400
    Brake lines $50
    Perches- $50
    Anti-Wrap- $70
    Dana 60 high steer arms with spacers- $300
    Ubolts- $50
    Shocks- $200
    Tie rods- $40 in tubing, $20 dollars in tube adapters- Tie rods ends- $140
    So probably about $1300 dollars wrapped up in that.
     
  14. bobracing

    bobracing web wheeler

    I was thinking that those might have been high but lets see.

    High steer: $375
    full add: $220
    total: don't want to be cheap here: $595
    http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=173

    We'll say you have flattop knuckle already
    drill knuckles: $45 x 2 = $90
    http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=191

    spring pads: $28 x 2 = $56
    http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Mopar-Replacement-Leaf-Spring-Perch-2.5-Wide-p-363.html

    custom rear CV driveshaft: ~$300 (probably low)

    brakelines: ~$100+
    This can be pieced together through speedway parts, special order for your rig will be more.

    New springs: $400
    or at least new bushings for old springs: $50

    shocks: $128, this is the low end
    http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1727

    Well I'm seeing just at $1000, being you have a good welder, grinder bla bla bla.
    or closer to $1300 with new springs.
    and I'm sure something is missing like shock tabs or towers for longer travel ummmm, nothing else is coming right now but $1500-2k is a pretty easy target depending on quality of parts used.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2010
  15. theycallmefudd

    theycallmefudd New Member

    Well those prices look legit, I'll be doing mine next month and I'll do a price list and see where I come in at... Thanks for the help... Sorry I kinda took over this tread I hope the other guy got the answers he was looking for also.
     
  16. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Make sure if you do this and do the high steer you have the knuckles drilled, tapped, and MACHINED as well. That gives a flat spot for the arm to sit on and sets the correct angle for the arm. Lots of people skip that part and end up with problems like nuts coming loose, sheared studs, etc. Of course if you start with a GM flat top driver's side knuckle it's already machined. DO NOT USE BOLTS to hold the arms in place. Use proper studs, cones, and locking nuts unless you want problems. Seen it time and time again.
     
  17. CJ-X

    CJ-X Member

    On the high steer arms, we drilled the knuckles out for 5/8 studs, and just used wheel lug nuts on top since they have the taper. Probably stronger than stock, and the nuts haven't come loose.
     
  18. Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Then theres guys like me that pay $500 for the entire Jeep cause the project that cost $5000 to build never gets finished and the wife gives up on it and says to sell it.:rofl:
     
  19. theycallmefudd

    theycallmefudd New Member

    I gotcha beat... Got mine for free, put 369.75 into it (battery, fluids, primer ect.) sold it for 1800.00-- bought a hard top for 400.00 sold it to the same guy for 835.00, installed it then just as its done, traded an old 76 ford highboy for it that I was in 600.00 dollers. My jeep is payin me... but now I actually need to put some money into it and hang on to it... but at least I'm positive on the deal:D