Front drum to Disk conversion

I doubt it. You need the inner race as mentioned. It is thicker by about 1/8" and moves the disc out so the caliper will fit. You need LM501311 BTDT.

 

I did have a little more machined off the back of the hub. Just enough so that I could get the pad in and it turned freely. Good info on the thicker race. Sounds like it accomplishes the same thing.

 

The issue with machining more off the hub is it can weaken the flange of the bearing hub significantly. By using the thicker race and the National 8430s seal you do not weaken the hub. On the Willys pu race truck I broke a bearing hub where the flange meets the hub body so the hub was spinning in the flange so no pull on that tire. That was with 31" tires in the sand just climbing hills.
Point is, you do not want to weaken that stress point any more than you absolutely have to.


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I did mine this past fall, front and rear. Long story short, I got a parts axle that was already converted to disc...upon a closer look, found out that hubs and rotors up front didn't even match from side to side, and no offset races to make it line up right...no wonder the DSPO gave up trying to make it work.

I ended up buying everything from Ryan at http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/ A little cheaper than R&P (heard that he supplies some parts to R&P...cheaper to go straight to the source). I was in a bind time-wise...he shipped stuff asap, and helped me a couple of times on the phone to get it all set up right.

 

Ryan supplies some parts to R&P and they supply some parts to him. He learned what he knows working for R&P. I know because I foolishly got him the job there. Better to go to the source of knowledge for correct information...

 

Learned about the supply thing here at ecj5...figured there was more to the story, too much of a co-winky-dink being located in the same area. Either way, I had a good experience there, and he did get the stuff out ASAP, and right. (I've also got stuff from R&P in the past....great experience there, too.)

DP

 

The new Race is the option i went. Had to order it online because nobody in Washington had what i needed. While i waited for those parts i decided to
dig in deeper, I am also replacing all Ball Joints, U-joints, Tie rods, Bearings, Seals, Master cylinder. ( Wow What a project )
This baby better stop on a dime and stop straight with less effort then before. I'm also hoping this will making my steering better at freeway speeds.

 

R&P normally stocks the correct race and the correct seal. As an fyi. They are just south of Portland, OR.


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I have been gathering the parts to convert my 74 Drums to 80 Disks. I pull the spindle yesterday and noted that there is a difference with regards to the spindle seal between the drum spindle and disk spindle. The 74 spindle has a press in seal (similar to the hub seal) the 80 has a different seal type (the experienced here will know what I mean). It appears that the 80 type seal is not usable with a 74 outboard axle shaft. Also, the back side of the "disk spindle" is slightly shallower than the "drum spindle"

My question is...has anyone successfully used a seal designed for a drum spindle pressed into the back side of a disk spindle? The circular dimensions at the back of the spindles are the same.

 

Oh, one thing that surprised me with the LM501311 races....when you put it all together...put on the first nut...then the lock ring, then the 2nd nut...you are right at the end of the spindle...no threads left. Didn't expect it to be that close. AAMOF, I had a set of the nice pretty machined spindle nuts...but had to use the stock stamped nuts because they are thinner.

 

That is normal. I have no extra threads on the ends of my spindles. The race takes up the little bit that was sticking out when you had the drums on there.

 

I installed the new inner race, but it only moved the hub a tiny bit and not enough to side the back pad in.
Im not sure what to do next other than removing more surface from the back of hub.

 

You sure you got the LM 501311 races? Should move the hub 1/8" outward. Make sure the caliper is slid as far inward on the pins as possible also to get the inner pad installed.
Also, this setup is for using the GM 1/2 ton/Wagoneer style calipers with the thick '77/'78 Jeep CJ/ '74-'81 Scout 2 rotor disc brake conversion in drum brake spindles.


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After further review i now realize im just a dumb ***. i put the new races on the outer part of hub.
Now that i change them to the inner part of the hub everything fits, although tight.

 

Question i have is about the brake lines. do i need any special adapter or will the new brake lines just screw into the old setup.



Question i have is about the brake lines. do i need any special adapter or will the new brake lines just screw into the old setup.

 

Shouldn't need any adapter ... Make sure the hose is long enough and get the right sizes on the ends. One end will be a banjo (7/16"???) and the other end will be IFF. I bought stainless braided hose from speedway or jegs or someplace like that.

 

When putting the axle nuts back on is it normal to have only two or three threads for the last nut?
I understand from reading forums that the snap ring will probably not fit, but i can hardly get the nut to grab.
Im afraid I will strip the threads if i tighten it to much.