1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Seabee M38A1 Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by tymbom, Mar 30, 2014.

  1. Sep 9, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or less in line 2020 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    1,687
    What goes into that 710 hole?
     
    Fireball and tymbom like this.
  2. Sep 10, 2020
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2002
    Messages:
    2,132
    This is my set up with the pump in the tank. I should worn you. You 're going to have to vent the gas tank or it's going to build up pressure. I used two rollover vent valves. One in the fuel pickup and the other in the fuel tank nozzle. These run to the carbon canister.
    Oh. And I used cork material for my gaskets.

    [​IMG]
     
    tymbom likes this.
  3. Sep 11, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    645
    Thanks for the heads up regarding the venting... I'll look into it
     
  4. Sep 21, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    645
    I decided the other day to try quiet down the the exhaust. It was kinda harsh and just a touch loud for what I'm looking for. I searched on Summit Racing looking at what they have that would fit in the tight space I have. I didn't want a glass pack since they blow out over time. I found a Jones Racing Exhaust muffler that is 5 inches in diameter and about 13 inches long. What attracted me to this one was it has internal baffles like a flowmaster so it won't burn out. Also it was only 25 bux...

    [​IMG]

    It tucked up in there nicely... Best of all it made a noticable difference...

    [​IMG]

    I downloaded a sound meter on my phone... I forgot to screenshot the before, but it was an average of 95-97 decibels. Now it's pleasant to be around. I don't really like having a loud exhaust for a wheelin rig...
     
  5. Oct 13, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    645
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Still tinkering away with different little projects as time allows... Due to the location of the motor I really only have 3 quarters of a fan shroud... I figure that's better than none at all...

    [​IMG]

    I put the bottom in the former battery box. I later sprayed the inside and bottom with some plastidip spray on rubberized coating.

    [​IMG]

    Some fun things have showed up...

    [​IMG]
    A preview of something I've been looking forward to...
     
  6. Oct 21, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    645
    [​IMG]
    Doing some stuff as I have time for... With the original style pintle hitch bolted up, I wanted to have a regular receiver hitch as well. I helped a buddy put a rear bumper and tire carrier on his jeep back in 2014 or so and I kept the receiver hitch. It just needed to be trimmed down a bit and some new holes drilled for mounting. It's kinda hard to see in this pic, but there is a 3/16ths plate behind the pintle and NOS safety hook plate that is welded to the receiver hitch. Four holes drilled through for a total of six half inch bolts holding it all together.

    [​IMG]

    It was one of those days where it seemed like I spent more time digging in the bolt box looking for the right ones. Then cleaning them up enough to use...

    [​IMG]

    The best part is that I didn't loose any clearance from my departure angle... Remember the Top Truck Challenge by Fourwheeler Magazine? They had the cool diamond plate sheet to measure approach and departure angles... I always enjoyed that event. The DVDs are fun to go back and watch...

    [​IMG]
    The weld on bead lock kits showed up the other day as well...
    Thanks for checking it out, laters
     
  7. Nov 11, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    645
    Time for an update. I thought I had the rear brakes all figured out a while back. I ordered brake rotor hats to slide over the hubs on the axle, and rotors that bolted up to the hats. I even drilled out the bolt pattern on the hat to fit the 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Fast forward a couple weeks and the Eldorado calipers and mounts arrived. Imagine my surprise when the brake rotor hat would not slide over the hub. Because of the 5x5.5 bolt pattern, the outside diameter of the hub was just a bit too big.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a pic of the hub with the drive flange. Also, this is a full float 9in Ford axle. This is a relatively common set up in circle track racing. The hubs I'm using are from Speedway Engineering and they are basically Nascar spec. But the bolt pattern I'm using is throwing everything off. It's made the whole set up cost at least two thirds more than I thought it would.

    I just didn't feel comfortable taking material away from the outside of the hub. So I started to look at different options. I found a different set of rotor hats on the Wilwood Racing website that were 157 bux each. Yikes. The matching rotors were over 200 bux each. That's not an option for me. So as I was explaining my frustrations to my wife, I hit upon an idea. Why not get the same rotors as the front with the same bolt pattern and slide those over the hub?

    [​IMG]
    So that works. Sorta. Now the caliper mount interferes with the backside of the hub. Darn.

    [​IMG]

    So here it is with the rotor between the drive flange and the hub. Not ideal. Grease needs to be sealed in there somehow, and the space between the caliper mount and the hub was paper thin.

    [​IMG]
    So I copied the OEM design even more. I brought the rotors down to the machine shop and they bored the center hole out to allow the hub to pass through from the front.

    [​IMG]
    Then I pressed the studs back in with the rotor sandwiched in with the hub. That's perfect. There is plenty of room between the caliper mount and the hub and the rotor is tucked inside the wheel. So now I have brake rotors mounted to the hubs and I can start figuring out how to get the shock mounts and caliper mounts to fit in the same place. I'll take some more detailed pictures of how it goes together tomorrow. Thanks for checking it out. Laters
     
  8. Nov 11, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    645
    Here's them pictures... [​IMG]

    From the outside. The studs are actually short enough to use a regular lug wrench.

    [​IMG]
    From behind showing the rotor is safely tucked in.

    [​IMG]
    Close up of the space between the caliper mount and hub.

    [​IMG]
    This what the hub looks like without the studs pressed back in.

    [​IMG]

    And from the front without the studs and the drive flange. If I'm completely honest I'm super excited to have this all figured out. There for a bit I was kinda kicking my self for heading down this trail. It seemed like building a 9in with Dana 44 outers would have been smarter... But I have something now that I can move forward with and make some progress again... Thanks again. Laters
     
  9. Nov 20, 2020
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    645
    [​IMG]
    I pulled the trigger on the weld on beadlock kit last weekend. It's kind of a tedious process since you have to do everything four times.

    [​IMG]
    After all the welding and grinding. And welding and grinding. And more grinding. I sanded them down and paint everything in a lovely shade of satin black. Then the assembly process started... Once again, kinda tedious.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    With the new tires mounted up I think it looks pretty stinkin good... Except for the splotchy paint...

    [​IMG]
    A quick articulation test showed that the new tires cleared the fenders just fine.

    A couple thoughts from doing the beadlock kits...
    I would do it when the weather was warmer so I could do all the grinding outside. I had a huge mess in my shop when I got done.
    I would also like to have access to a lathe and actually cut the wheel for a better fit. This kit is from Total Metal Innovations, and it is designed for the ring that gets welded to the wheel to sit inside the flange of the outer edge of the bead. If that makes sense. I would rather spin the wheel in a lathe and cut the extra material off the wheel. That would also make it easier to center the ring before welding. That was tedious as well. If the ring isn't centered on the wheel, the tire is gonna wobble and the jeep will never be smooth on the road.
    All together I'm pleased with the results and can't wait to see how everything works out. The tires are slightly bigger than what I had on there before, but nothing crazy. Under the diffs I have 12 1/2 inches of clearance. Thanks for checking it out. Laters
     
    blalp!, jeep peep69, Fireball and 3 others like this.

Share This Page

New Posts