Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by tymbom, Mar 30, 2014.
What goes into that 710 hole?
This is my set up with the pump in the tank. I should worn you. You 're going to have to vent the gas tank or it's going to build up pressure. I used two rollover vent valves. One in the fuel pickup and the other in the fuel tank nozzle. These run to the carbon canister.
Oh. And I used cork material for my gaskets.
Thanks for the heads up regarding the venting... I'll look into it
I decided the other day to try quiet down the the exhaust. It was kinda harsh and just a touch loud for what I'm looking for. I searched on Summit Racing looking at what they have that would fit in the tight space I have. I didn't want a glass pack since they blow out over time. I found a Jones Racing Exhaust muffler that is 5 inches in diameter and about 13 inches long. What attracted me to this one was it has internal baffles like a flowmaster so it won't burn out. Also it was only 25 bux...
It tucked up in there nicely... Best of all it made a noticable difference...
I downloaded a sound meter on my phone... I forgot to screenshot the before, but it was an average of 95-97 decibels. Now it's pleasant to be around. I don't really like having a loud exhaust for a wheelin rig...
Still tinkering away with different little projects as time allows... Due to the location of the motor I really only have 3 quarters of a fan shroud... I figure that's better than none at all...
I put the bottom in the former battery box. I later sprayed the inside and bottom with some plastidip spray on rubberized coating.
Some fun things have showed up...
A preview of something I've been looking forward to...
Doing some stuff as I have time for... With the original style pintle hitch bolted up, I wanted to have a regular receiver hitch as well. I helped a buddy put a rear bumper and tire carrier on his jeep back in 2014 or so and I kept the receiver hitch. It just needed to be trimmed down a bit and some new holes drilled for mounting. It's kinda hard to see in this pic, but there is a 3/16ths plate behind the pintle and NOS safety hook plate that is welded to the receiver hitch. Four holes drilled through for a total of six half inch bolts holding it all together.
It was one of those days where it seemed like I spent more time digging in the bolt box looking for the right ones. Then cleaning them up enough to use...
The best part is that I didn't loose any clearance from my departure angle... Remember the Top Truck Challenge by Fourwheeler Magazine? They had the cool diamond plate sheet to measure approach and departure angles... I always enjoyed that event. The DVDs are fun to go back and watch...
The weld on bead lock kits showed up the other day as well...
Thanks for checking it out, laters
Time for an update. I thought I had the rear brakes all figured out a while back. I ordered brake rotor hats to slide over the hubs on the axle, and rotors that bolted up to the hats. I even drilled out the bolt pattern on the hat to fit the 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Fast forward a couple weeks and the Eldorado calipers and mounts arrived. Imagine my surprise when the brake rotor hat would not slide over the hub. Because of the 5x5.5 bolt pattern, the outside diameter of the hub was just a bit too big.
Here's a pic of the hub with the drive flange. Also, this is a full float 9in Ford axle. This is a relatively common set up in circle track racing. The hubs I'm using are from Speedway Engineering and they are basically Nascar spec. But the bolt pattern I'm using is throwing everything off. It's made the whole set up cost at least two thirds more than I thought it would.
I just didn't feel comfortable taking material away from the outside of the hub. So I started to look at different options. I found a different set of rotor hats on the Wilwood Racing website that were 157 bux each. Yikes. The matching rotors were over 200 bux each. That's not an option for me. So as I was explaining my frustrations to my wife, I hit upon an idea. Why not get the same rotors as the front with the same bolt pattern and slide those over the hub?
So that works. Sorta. Now the caliper mount interferes with the backside of the hub. Darn.
So here it is with the rotor between the drive flange and the hub. Not ideal. Grease needs to be sealed in there somehow, and the space between the caliper mount and the hub was paper thin.
So I copied the OEM design even more. I brought the rotors down to the machine shop and they bored the center hole out to allow the hub to pass through from the front.
Then I pressed the studs back in with the rotor sandwiched in with the hub. That's perfect. There is plenty of room between the caliper mount and the hub and the rotor is tucked inside the wheel. So now I have brake rotors mounted to the hubs and I can start figuring out how to get the shock mounts and caliper mounts to fit in the same place. I'll take some more detailed pictures of how it goes together tomorrow. Thanks for checking it out. Laters
Here's them pictures...
From the outside. The studs are actually short enough to use a regular lug wrench.
From behind showing the rotor is safely tucked in.
Close up of the space between the caliper mount and hub.
This what the hub looks like without the studs pressed back in.
And from the front without the studs and the drive flange. If I'm completely honest I'm super excited to have this all figured out. There for a bit I was kinda kicking my self for heading down this trail. It seemed like building a 9in with Dana 44 outers would have been smarter... But I have something now that I can move forward with and make some progress again... Thanks again. Laters
I pulled the trigger on the weld on beadlock kit last weekend. It's kind of a tedious process since you have to do everything four times.
After all the welding and grinding. And welding and grinding. And more grinding. I sanded them down and paint everything in a lovely shade of satin black. Then the assembly process started... Once again, kinda tedious.
With the new tires mounted up I think it looks pretty stinkin good... Except for the splotchy paint...
A quick articulation test showed that the new tires cleared the fenders just fine.
A couple thoughts from doing the beadlock kits...
I would do it when the weather was warmer so I could do all the grinding outside. I had a huge mess in my shop when I got done.
I would also like to have access to a lathe and actually cut the wheel for a better fit. This kit is from Total Metal Innovations, and it is designed for the ring that gets welded to the wheel to sit inside the flange of the outer edge of the bead. If that makes sense. I would rather spin the wheel in a lathe and cut the extra material off the wheel. That would also make it easier to center the ring before welding. That was tedious as well. If the ring isn't centered on the wheel, the tire is gonna wobble and the jeep will never be smooth on the road.
All together I'm pleased with the results and can't wait to see how everything works out. The tires are slightly bigger than what I had on there before, but nothing crazy. Under the diffs I have 12 1/2 inches of clearance. Thanks for checking it out. Laters
Well after a slight delay of game to replace the transmission and torque converter in my M1008, I'm back at it...
The darn thing barely fits in the shop.
The jeep got pushed outside and covered up.
Parts were piling up for each. After I ordered the 3rd member case and pinion support, the torque converter went out so I picked up a Hughes Performance towing torque converter.
That's done now so back to the Jeep project.
I loaded up all the parts and hauled them over to my friend Roy's house. Roy has all the tools and knowledge to build the diffs for me.
Assembled with 4.56 gears, Detroit locker, and a 1310 pinion yoke.
Roy was pleased with the pattern. I've never done anything like this before so I was learning and trying to help. Tomorrow we're planning to put the other one together...
Tonight the pretty case was assembled. We started on it yesterday but ran into a snafu. The Daytona Pinion support takes a different bearing than the original style. The local Baxter's Auto parts had the correct bearing in stock.
This is an aftermarket case from Strange Engineering with the matching pinion support. Everything about this case is better and stronger. Extra webbing and thicker casting. Even the side adjusters are thicker and better. I'm planning to run this one in the rear axle, along with a pinion guard.
Now I need to get the transfer case mods done so I can set the pinion angle and mount the disc brake caliper brackets and shock mounts on the rear axle. Thanks for checking it out. Laters
I went wheeling today with Roy. I decided to leave my truck at home and just ride along. I can't remember the last time I was a passenger in a wheeling trip. It was fun to just be along for the ride.
The snow wasn't the best, but we had a great time.
Roy's CJ7 is very well set up for snow wheeling. The 258 is fuel injected, with a T5 transmission and a Dana 300 transfer case. With 4:1 low range gears and 4:88s it crawls pretty good. We still got stuck on a stump though...
We made it up to the big prairie on the north side of Mt. Shasta and parked for lunch.
We warmed up some leftover prime rib from Christmas and cooked some sausages. It was a good time to just relax. A little motivation to keep busy on my project too.
Looks like a fun day!
I hauled my transfer case over to Roy's and we started on the rebuild. This transfer case is in really good shape, I don't think it had alot of miles on it. I probably could have ran it it how it was if I needed to, but I wanted to make some upgrades. The first upgrade was a 32 spline output shaft kit from JB Conversions. When I read the instructions I realized that the case needed to be torn down enough to where it made sense to go ahead and put the LoMax 4:1 gears in at the same time...
I'm not really good at taking pictures step by step. Here we're setting the endplay on the rear output. We had to scrounge around and find some shims, the shims were missing from my kit.
All together and turning smoothly... The notch to fit the new gears is in the upper left corner. We thought we were doing good until I held up a couple parts...
We forgot the shift forks... The front cover/shift tower comes back off...
When I assembled the shift tower I used the stiffer detent springs and left out the interlock pills. I want to be able to have the option of front wheel drive high range, in case something happens to the rear driveshaft.
All buttoned up
All together it probably took about 8 hours to complete the job with all the mods... We might have installed a gear backwards and the shift fork snafu, but it was still fun. I blocked off the speedometer hole since I have a GPS speedometer. I just need a threaded vent and it's ready to go back in... Thanks for checking it out, Laters!
Detail shot of the speedo plug and the vent fitting...
Transfer case is back in... I pushed it out of the shop to clean up a bit and sweep up.
Now I've got to start planning the next phase. I need to finish the axles with the diffs and axle shafts, brakes, breathers, etc. Also I need to run some brake lines and the flex lines to the axles. I'm getting there...
Nice! I've got an orange assistant too:
That looks like some well made parts porn.. XXX! along with the kitty..
I can smell my jeep leaking from here.
Something better than kitty pictures... The axle shafts for the rear axle showed up today. These are 31 spline inner, and 24 spline on the outer.
Of course ya gotta test fit everything... The drive flange fits perfectly. I need to get the diff in the rear housing so I can set the pinion angle and determine where the rear caliper mounts need to go.
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