Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Mcruff, Aug 5, 2005.
so you are taking the sag all the way to the steering wheel from the donor? Interesting approach.
I'm curious if this ever got answered. I have a good condition box, pump, and lines from a 99 Cherokee just sitting here. Would it be possible to put this into my 67 CJ V6, assuming I could fab up all the necessary brackets, pulleys, shafts, etc etc?
Also, in some of the pictures in this thread, the pitman arm is pointed toward the front of the vehicle .... and in other pictures, it's pointing towards the back. Can it go either way? Why? Does the type of box dictate the direction? Or does mounting position?
It depends on what the box originally came out of, and (generally) whether it was mounted in front of, or behind the axle.
Regarding your 3- vs. 4-bolt question, as far as I know, the older 3-hole boxes are the same as the 4-hole boxes, just sans the 4th hole. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but some of the newer boxes look like the top mounting hole is more centered above the bottom holes. Don't know for a fact.
Just wanted to put this info out there. I looked and looked for the earlier bracket I think Focker has on his Dauntless.
I had no luck around here at the local junk yards. What I did find was a 1975 Buick Century with a 350 motor.
You can see the top of the bracket is pretty ugly. I cut off the top and had to clearance the center section also due to the extra large distributor.
Also rather than using the one long bolt near the distributor I used two short bolts for clearance.
The belt I used on my 1971 is a Gates 7370.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for looking.
Installed sometime around 1980 or so
I know the previous owner loved to weld. Appears he even made his own bracket to hold the power steering pump and smog pump. I just noticed the allen screw and key way on the lower part of the steering shaft. Maybe it is adjustable. That could solve the problem of the rag joint being stretched.
Is a rag joint preferred at the steering gear? Seems more stable that U-joints?
You need flex/slippage somewhere between the body and frame.
I use the bell coupler at the steering box on my Jeep.
I just found this today. I wish I had seen this about a year ago when I started collecting bits and pieces for the saginaw kit. This looks WAAAAY easier than going through the cross member, looks way better (in my opinion) and is pretty cost effective. Won't work with F-Head or 4cyl. I called Herm and he says while no two jeeps are alike, this is pretty much a bolt on kit. Has anyone used this kit? Feedback? Sorry if I missed this in an earlier post.
Power CJ Conversion Kits | Herm The Overdrive Guy
Ford Reverse Rotation Gear
Power CJ Conversion Kits
V6 Reverse Rotation Ford Power Steering Conversion Kit for CJ Applications
This kit is designed for the installer to be an easy adaption without any welding or cutting required. This is a bolt in kit. There may be obstacle’s that I am not aware of. If you encounter a problem, give me a call. Includes Mounting Bracket, Bolts, Special Pitman Arm and Instructions – Gearbox not included.
Re-manufactured power steering gearboxes are available from NAPA. If you’d prefer to obtain your own from a donor vehicle, the following vehicles used the correct reverse pattern. Manual gearboxes, not available from NAPA, are harder to find but were installed on the same applications:
List of donor vehicles for steering box:
Ford Bronco (Fullsize) 1980-1996
Ford Bronco II 1984-1990
Ford E-Series Van (E-150/250/350) 1982-1996
Ford F-Series Truck (F-150/250/350, 2WD & 4WD) 1983-1997
Ford Ranger 1980-1997
Mazda Trucks (B2300, B4000, Navajo) 1991-1997
Keep in mind there are exceptions to every rule. If you go to a wrecking yard, be sure the box you purchase is a reverse rotation gearbox. When the steering wheel is turned clockwise, the pitman arm also turns clockwise as viewed from above. Do NOT attempt to reuse the stock pitman arm that comes with the gearbox because the taper for the tie rod is wrong. Serious injury can occur with the incorrect pitman arm. The pitman arm supplied with the kit has the proper taper.
Our power steering kits will not fit with the stock 4 cylinder engine. The drivers side exhaust manifold on a V-6 requires a rear exit. Our kit will fit with most engine swaps.
It has been discussed in this thread and others. Do a search. The conversion does look easier but may cause you to have to relocate your radiator or get a different radiator. I am collecting parts for my PS conversion, I haven't ruled Herm's out yet, but there is a lot less info about it out there than there is for the saginaw and it makes me a little cautious.
Search Results for Query: herm steering | ECJ5
Thanks for that! I just didn't see much of a discussion of it in this thread. Appreciate the input.
Here is a link to a fella that put Herm's kit on a flatty, just FYI.
Project Flatfender: Steering
After doing research on his kit on the interweb about other folks experiences with Herm's kit, I can see it has several advantages over a typical Saginaw install.
My only concern with Herm's kit is how it may cause a clearance issue with the front axle below the pitman arm. I will discuss that with him if I decide to go that way. Maybe someone on here that has installed Herm's kit can share some pictures?
Personally...........After what I have seen , I'm not sure there is a Typical Saginaw Install short of just calling the "Norm" a steering gear mounting between the front bumper and front cross member.......as no two installs will be the same , due too many factors like winches, bumpers, radiators, engine type, exhaust, placement of PS pump and steering column shaft obstacles , notwithstanding the installers abilities to understand & lessen these compromises while still not compromising the steering's performance.
It seems almost daily there are folks asking questions about there lack of steering performance on subjects such as Mounts , Pittman arms, Drag Links , gear box Ratio's , Bump steer ETC. All of which should have been addressed long before you fired up the welder.
I think having a clean sheet of paper on where your steering box should go geometry wise is far more important than letting the bumper , winch , exhaust or radiator dictate where it has to go............as any system will work as long as you pay attention to it's needs..........
Good Morning, I’m just re-starting a build that stalled several years ago. One of the projects is the Saginaw Steering set up. Does anyone have any photos of this being done with the existing manifolds and exhaust setup?
Some good pics of that area starting on post #8 - Focker's '71 CJ5 Drivable Build - Post #8
Getting really close on my PS conversation. Ordered ‘69 Buick hoses today. I’ll need to shorten them a bit I suspect as the gear is directly below the pump.
Question is; which is the pressure in line on my Ford steering gear?
Here is what I just finished today. This was done over three months time. I would say all in probably 30 hours to complete this conversion. I’m a total noob though. First timer. Maybe some could do it faster. I’m also super anal about doing things to last.
Anyway I created the video in hopes it might help others. I’ve never welded until I got th S Jeep. I’ve never done steering before. The only skill I have really is being good at looking at things and making them work. But hell its time consuming. Super pleased on how it turned out.
Hope this helps others out.
That is excellent!!!
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