Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Muzikp, Aug 11, 2017.
Oooo good call, forgot about them
So why does the secondary side even have the idle mixture screws?
Ok I'm really close to my Jeep running perfect. The carb rebuild did the trick on the lean bog, I have fuel in the secondary bowl now and it revs nicely.
My only remaining issue is it idles a bit rough and it seems like the timing at idle wants to be around 12 degrees which seems like too much.
I'm seeing lots of argument on the interwebnet about ported verses manifold vacuum advance. Currently I am using manifold vacuum advance and I have the ported plugged. Anybody run one of these 470cfm Holley Truck Avenger carbs? Any tips would help me, I'm so darn close.
I could move them forward if I bought some more mounts. I think I like the idea of moving them to the axle tube so they are less susceptible to rock damage. I need to sort out if these shocks will work if I move the mount up a bit, I don't want the shock to be my bump stop.
Most carbs do run on port vacuum. Why not give it a try and see how it runs? Glad your rig is close to running well. Mine is MILES away from that goal.
Use ported vac and 12° is about right. Hei? Strongly suggest the Rich Mott's tuning method. Scroll down a few posts. HEI distributor cap #1 terminal
My only issue with the 470 is I really can't get it to idle below 850 or so. I think it's a touch big still. I have a 390cfm that I'm going to off-road mod and try
Yes HEI, thanks, forgot to mention that. I'll check out Mr. Mott... didn't he also make applesauce?
James, the 390 Holley works well but I liked the AFB 400. The HEI should be "dyno tuned" to your motors specs. I used a place off of Fulton that did my dyno work for me and my customers, it sure made a difference. Sorry I don't remember the name of the place. It was behind a car lot.
Wowzers! that thread is a deep dark scary rabbit hole .
My 470 is the same, doesn't want to idle as low as I would like it to. 390 sounds just about right for these motors, I hate giving up on this carb as it seems like it's really well built for off-road.
Dyno - hmmm maybe. For now I'm going to stick with my butt in the seat dyno. Think I'll pick up a vacuum gauge and try and get my idle mixture screws perfect first.
I bought this puller set from @millennium falcon and I gotta say these are awesome.
Got my emergency brake drum and backer and everything else off which gained me a decent amount of ground clearance
Need to work on a skid plate next.
I skipped the skid plate making and decided to investigate my tire rub, bump stop, body lift issue instead.
I can't get this thing fully flexed with a jack and blocks, both front tires end up in the air before I'm even close to bump stops.
But it was enough to realize that the body lift needs to go back on. I have about 2.5" from axle to bump stop in the front.
And way less than that between front tire and fender.
I'm wondering if this thing can even flex enough to hit the bump stops?
Fortunately this exercise also revealed that my tie rod had interference with my power steering box. Sooo... I made a little droop in the tie rod. When I made my tie-rod I thought it was just slightly too long since the TRE's were all the way in with just enough thread for the jamb nuts. With the little droop I now have 1/4" more adjustment on each side so it worked out perfect.
I also bent a steel fuel line from tank to fuel pump, I didn't like the crappy new rubber one, and it crosses over the exhaust with only a few inches of clearance so I was motivated to ditch the rubber fuel line. I have it all bent and zip-tied in place, just need to connect it at each end and do some permanent mounting.
The rubicon will make that jeep flex in ways you never knew possible......
That's what I'm assuming . Want to make sure nothing is going to get damaged in a full flex scenario. As much as I hate to raise my center of gravity with the body lift I don't think I have a choice. Hey @FinoCJ do you have a body lift on yours? How much rubbing do you deal with?
What’s the OD and wall thickness of your tie rod material? You might want to keep an eye on it. Putting a bend in it might’ve introduced a possible point of failure. If the left tire is wedged in a hole, the PS can fold tubing pretty easily if it’s not sturdy enough.
I like that low look. I’d probably drop the bumpstops lower before lifting the body. They’re not doing much where they are now since the tire would bend the fender before there’s bumpstop contact.
XJ bumpstops are the bees knees.
Crown Automotive 52002393 4.1" Rear-End Axle Snubber for 87-01 Jeep Cherokee XJ (Bump Stop)
Just a thought.....one you most likely have done..... When attempting to find "MAX OUT" articulation disconnect the shocks. Sometimes you gain travel and find out ya might need to switch out the shocks. Used to use a cherry picker along with a big azz long floor jack to max out Jeeps.
ALL looking good JAMES!
Hmmm, I hadn't thought about the tie rod doing that. It's 1" .188 wall DOM so it's pretty stout. I sorta stole the idea from the Varg, what is your OD and wall thickness?
I'm really liking the low stance as well, but it's A LOT!!! of rubbing. I'm thinking maybe 1" on body and bring bumps down 1.5"
I was looking at the shocks thinking I should disconnect. I'll do that tomorrow and see if those are stopping anything, the front ones were sale items at Speedway and are probably not correct.
Mine is 1 1/4” OD, 1/4” wall IIRC. Possibly chromoly. I know it destroyed my hydraulic bender.
Just looked, apparently yours is chromoly
Mine just won't do that
My front tire would be destroying my fender in this scenario and the opposite side rear would be making a lot of noise.
Separate names with a comma.