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Front dana 44 - disc brakes - wheel bearing problems...

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by schardein, Jun 12, 2007.

  1. Jun 12, 2007
    schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    Success, MO
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    I know I have seen something on this here, did a search (couple), no luck...

    I am building a waggie dana 44 front, using Chevy backing plates, calipers. Ford 5 on 5.5 hub and rotor, with Ford/Chevy small bearing spindle.

    The problem is the rotor is hitting the backing plate. Somewhere I have read about a inner wheel bearing that spaces out the hub and fixes this... can anyone help??

    Also, if you have done this and have another solution, please advise!!!

    I have some CJ thick rotors that I might try, they are quite a bit "shorter" meaning they won't hit the backing plate, but they *look* to short to work...

    I have searched the web also but everywhere says this works, not sure what I am doing wrong.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Jun 12, 2007
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Man, thinking this hard REALLY hurts Greg. From the foggy recesses of my brain, I *think* the inner bearing race you need is from the '65 and later D27 axle, it should e about .125 inch thicker than the earlier one. IIRC when I tied to use the thinner Jeep rotors, i had issues with the piston being at full extension and the pads not hitting the rotors but no clearance issues like yours.

    Mebbe a trip to NAPA and have them pull a pre '65 and a post '65 inner race and see the difference? I'd use a '63 and '67 just to be sure..
     
  3. Jun 12, 2007
    schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    Success, MO
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    That was quick, I love this place...

    I might have some of those earlier bearings in the parts box...wouldn't that be cool...will let you know...

    Thanks
     
  4. Jun 12, 2007
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
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  5. Jun 13, 2007
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Glad you guys don't have to rely on my memory! :beer:
     
  6. Jun 13, 2007
    Wmi68CJ5

    Wmi68CJ5 Let the Sun Shine!

    Twin Lake MI
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    I did this conversion about 7 years ago.........racking my brain for the info on what I used for the bearings and spindles. If I remeber correctly I used the original bearings from the ford set-up since they were in good shape. I could be wrong bt i didn't seem to have any issues at the time. I will look at my notes and see if I have anything still. I moved twice since then and things have kinda disappeared both mentally and literally. How are you fabbing your stearing? I stayed spring under and my tierod sits un top of my knuckles and I am trying to find a good set-up. Good luck.

    Todd
     
  7. Jun 13, 2007
    schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    Success, MO
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    Clint, I will check that out.

    Todd, I think it is pretty cool that the FSJ knuckles mount the tie rod on top. When I got the axle housing it had been narrowed and the pass side knuckle drilled and machined for a high steer arm, which was included (it was a good deal). Since I am staying spring under it looks like I can't use it, the drag link would actually be angled up slighty (with my 3" of lift) and would probably hit the swaybar in the first couple inches of uptravel. I bought a complete setup off partsmike.com, it includes large DOM tubes for the draglink and tierod, full size truck rod ends, and a Chevy rod end for the pitman arm hookup that has a lot of travel. Kinda expensive but after much research I think it was actually a fair to good deal. Only thing is I need to get a taper reamer to enlarge the hole in the pitman arm for the bigger Chevy rod end. The other end of the draglink attaches to a hole in the pass side TRE. With my short lift draglink angle will be minimal and should be a good setup. Lots of work yet to do but hopefully driving by end of summer!
     
  8. Jun 13, 2007
    schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    Success, MO
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    Clint, just read the thread and that is me!! Do you know the application for the race so I can look it up that way?
     
  9. Jun 13, 2007
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
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  10. Jun 13, 2007
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Wrong race for his application. That's the one when using external hubs, like stock CJ's. In the first post Greg says he's using Ford Hub and rotors. I did this a while back on the Race Jeep.
    Greg, I'm gonna pm you my # if you want to give me a call tonight. I have all the bearing and race part #'s at home that you need for the small GM/Waggy spindle and Ford hub and Rotor. Nickmil
     
  11. Jun 13, 2007
    schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    Success, MO
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    Nick, will be calling tonight. Yes, I am using full size truck parts vs the CJ parts. I thought of reusing my CJ parts, but would need Scout outer axle shafts to fit the bigger u-joints, or so I have read. I also like the idea of using the fullsize truck lockouts rather than the CJ bolt-on ones, although I considered buying the Warn conversion hubs. If my tires end up WAY outside the fenders may still consider this down the road. The axle was cut down but not sure where things will end up once all assembled.
     
  12. Jun 15, 2007
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Here are the bearing and race #'s for doing the GM/Wagoneer small spindle, GM/FSJ caliper bracket/caliper, Ford 1/2 ton hub and rotor conversion.

    Inner
    LM 601349 Bearing
    LM 601311 Race

    Outer
    LM 501349 Bearing
    LM 501310 Race

    Seal
    4250

    I believe the seal # is a National
    The Bearing/Race #'s are Timken. Maybe we can put this info in the archives or something?

    Nickmil
     
  13. Jun 16, 2007
    schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    Success, MO
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    Nick (and all), I'm having a heck of a time finding these inner bearings/races. The outers are the ones I am already using 78-80 Ford F150 application. The 601349/601311 is kicking my butt. When I look up the outer numbers, say on partsamerica, they come right up. The inners don't bring up anything. Can anyone tell me source to get these?
     
  14. Jun 16, 2007
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    applied technologies,formaly dixie bearings on the east coast,they should have it instock,and yes they are nationwide
     
  15. Jun 16, 2007
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    applied industral technoliges,my bad
     
  16. Jun 20, 2007
    schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    Success, MO
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    Well, after trying to find bearings with no success, I decided I DID NOT want a bearing that I would have to order if I ever needed to replace it, especially since the bearing I am using is one of the most common out there!

    So, I had the rear face of the hub machined, removed 3/16". The rotor now does not interfere with the backing plate, and now the rotor is spaced out exactly the same distance as the front dana 44 on my Blazer. When I slid on the calipers, the rotor was perfectly centered up on it. In addition, my lug studs gained that 3/16 in length, and don't look questionable anymore. So, a win-win-win for me. Machining was a little expensive, I guess, at $90, but that is quite a bit of material to be removed, and the machinist said his lathe broke while doing it...
     
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