ECJ5 Roll cage kit?

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone out there has any experience with a roll cage kit for their ECJ5. Currently, my Jeep has a single roll bar, but I'm considering scrapping that for a full 6 point cage. I don't have a tubing bender or notcher so I was looking at kits that I can weld together. I've seen a few different ones and the prices seem to vary wildly. Anymore, my Jeep just sees street use and this is more for my safety in case of a highway calamity than for rockcrawling or anything like that. Also, considering that my Jeep has a 'glass body, I want something that would tie into the frame. So, where should I be looking?

 

i have the 6 point family cage from extreme custom parts. all the bends were great and the A hoop fit the dash and windsheild perfectly.

http://extremecustomparts.com/i-341...amily-roll-cage-kit-55-75-cj5-cj2-cj3-mb.html

 

Do you have a couple pics? How does it tie into the frame?

 

I'm wanting to redo my cage but am torn between using the extreme custom parts cage or buying a Rogue tubing bender and notcher.

 

New tools are always nice..............but if it's just for one project? Tubing benders can take up some pretty good space if mechanical, the powered one's not nearly as much.....find a friend or shop nearby that will bend some tubing for you.

 

I bought the rear family half from Extreme ,very good service , great product/price for it being already bent up ,I was super happy ....I think my rig is in his pics.....or it used to be anyway

 

I definitely don't have the room for a manual bender. The Rogue bender is setup for air/hydraulic with the buyer supplying the ram (usually HF). I'd love to go that route and find a used hydraulic power pack from a press or lift to power the thing.

As for buying a new tool for just one project.....do I need a reason to buy new tools?

 

When I built the RaceJeep it was actually a lot cheaper to buy a ProTools bender with the dies I needed and do it myself than have someone local just bend the tube. I was quoted (cheapest local price) about $1200 just to bend what I wanted. Sans tube or welding. I paid about $1000 for the bender and all the tube I needed with leftovers and own the bender.


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Hey southtowns, the cage in my '57 was from a kit that I got from 4wdhardware.com roughly 15 years ago. I have no idea if they still make such a kit. It fits pretty well, and ties into the frame in 6 places. If I had to do it again, I probably would, although I don't like that I can't mount a half cab with the full cage. Someday I'll figure out a way to make it work.

 

i was thinking about buying a bender and doing it my self too, but it was a couple hundred bucks cheaper to buy the kit.

southtowns27, i didnt get the frame tie in kit but they have it as an option when ordering.

 

I bought this one 10 years ago: http://completeoffroad.com/i-123960-roll-cage-kit-cj5-cj7-willys-mb-38-cj2-cj3-6-point.html

I think the price is even the same as then. Although shipping was included. Might have been a special.

This all attaches to the roll bar you already have, and you have to assemble it and trim to fit and weld it all up your self, or have someone weld it up for you.

Good service that I remember, however that was 10 years ago.

 

looks like complete offroad and extreme custom are one and the same unless iowa is a hot spot for fab shops...

 

What's the general consensus on HREW tubing? I think for non-competition use I might be ok with it. DOM is an expensive upgrade...

 

That's a tough call since no one can really predict how much protection one needs until after the event has happened!

HREW is at the low end of the strength gauge in tubing when compared equally in OD size , wall thickness & Yield strength. On 1010 carbon HREW the yield is around 45,000 psi , DOM around 70,000 and 4130 chrome-moly around 90,000.

Those numbers of course point towards the tubing's ability to resist impact or bend.

Not going to make a call on what works best for you...............but what I would suggest and what I believe is far more important is the actual installation.........be it tube notching , fitting and welding type to how your transferring the energy from the cage through the tub to the chassis in regards to real support may be a far larger concern than the actual type of steel.

 

When it comes to your safety, or your families safety I don't think you should save a few dollars. I'd go with DOM and like has been said, I'd make sure the welds are well done.

I decided to do as much as I could, tacking the cage together, then taking it to a certified welder. This is the only thing I have decided to outsource the welding.

 

Where was the seam in relation to the bend? You have me curious. I've seen The same when the seam was not inside the curve of the bend but not yet when it was and thick enough wall tubing was used. Generally recommended that the seam is on the inside of any bend. I'd definitely recommend .120" wall tubing.
DOM is better than HREW, no mistake there, but HREW can be just fine if utilized correctly and the design of the cage is ok. I've field tested the theory and have had no issues with it. At least so far. Smittybilt sold cage kits for 20 plus years using HREW tube.


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I am getting ready to build one for my 61 Willys. My goal is for it to protect me 1 time. I don't want to even roll it once, but if I do I will build another cage. That being said I am using standard tubing and a pipe bender from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html

You will see a lot of discussion arguments around what to use to make the roll cage. I am no expert, but normal tubing will hold me for one time, if I get in bad trouble!!!

 

that bender is for pipe not tubing. it has to be modified to work with tuing or it will kink. thee are some how to vids on youtube.