Dana 30 Advice

Im thinking about swapping my 27 for a 30. But I need to have it completed before Thanksgiving weekend. What are the things I should anticipate. Are there some major things that could set me back. I have a Dana 30 that has new 4.88s set up at a shop (tried to set them myself just didnt feel right when I was done so took it to a local shop and the guy said I was close on the Pinion height just not quite there) it also has a Aussie locker. Disk brakes not the good ones but disks all the same need new calipers old ones are not worth going through looks to be frozen. I replace the U joints in the axle. I figure Ill need a new drive shaft and a output yoke for the 18 big u joints not sure about clearance with the Sm420 but the yoke is on order. Spring plates are a concern Is there some aftermarket plates to be had that will allow the shocks to be mounted, does this about cover everything or is there something I am forgetting something. Brake lines I will have made unless there is some off the shelf set anyone can suggest.
Any and help is appreciated
Jim C

 

Might contact McRuff on the plates. I know R&P will build the plates to suit or send you the parts so you can put them together yourself. They are gone Elk hunting until November 11 though.
Brake hoses for/from the donor vehicle should work depending on how much lift you have.
Not sure what steering system you have now but tie rods or drag link may need to be addressed depending on what you have.
You will need gear oil and brake fluid. Possibly change residual pressure valve for the front brakes depending on if you have drums or discs now and if you still have the under floor m/c or not.

 

Steering system is saginaw power unit. Old rancho lift on jeep I think just a 2 or 3 inch lift just for 33s It is still the under floor mc installed. Residual valve is in outlet of mc from what I understood. Not sure how exactly to remove? But I believe I need to go from the stock to a 1.5 lbs for the disks is this correct?

 

Since the 30 tube is larger than the 27 you'll need new u-bolts along with the new spring plates. I reused my spring plates and u-bolts but they're not right & I plan to replace them.

I put mine together without degree wedges first to see how it was and I can tell you it was undrivable. Very bad. You need to get your degree wedges figured out ahead of time. Get the steel ones from McRuff if you can.

If your 30 has two steering link holes you can have both the link from the pitman arm and the tie rod land on it. This is different from my 27 which had a hole in the tie rod to land the lower end of the link from the pitman arm. I mention this because it has an effect on your steering travel and it has caused me some problems.

 

I had Mike build me new plates and they were very nice. I also used his caster shims at the same time. The brake lines I just bent and double flared myself. I used stock steering componets for a 75ish cj5 for the tie rod ends etc. I did use drum brakes so I cant help you out in the brake dept.

 

Did you say you plan to run a bigger u-joint at the transfer case end of the front drive shaft? If so that’s a problem, it won’t clear the SM420 transmission.

 

Thanks for all the input. Well it looks like its better to wait till after thanksgiving just doesnt seem like enough time to finish this properly. I am working on a bumper tire carrier combo. Already installed a fabricated xmember to handle the stress of the weight, pictures coming soon!

 

When looking for degree shims, you can use shims for later (wider) spring sets. It only take a few seconds with an angle grinder to allow the u-bolts to fit. Don't bother with aluminum shims, use steel shims.