Dana 18 High-Low shift fork setscrew: least headache way to install?

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by j54mitsu, Apr 17, 2016.

  1. Apr 17, 2016
    j54mitsu

    j54mitsu Member

    Alexandria, VA
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2010
    Messages:
    123
    What is the least time-consuming way to install the setscrew that holds the sliding-gear's shift-fork to the high-low shift-rod? Is a nearly complete rebuild avoidable?

    Does anyone know a NAPA or other part number for the set screw? Mine is unusable.

    This is a US Spicer/Dana 18 small bore case with twin stick front cap.

    Thanks!

    It came loose while driving. I suspect that it popped the sliding gear out of high and then through luck and magic feel into the pan and didn't cause any other damage. (whew!) I didn't find any wire debris, so I suspect that it wasn't properly anchored.

    I'd like to avoid doing a rebuild, the case was recently rebuilt (only 5-6 hours of drive time) by a very reputable vendor. However, it's been too long to qualify for warranty work (2 years, long story).

    I'm glad this happened now, I was (or hopefully still am) planning on doing a weekend of offroading at the end of the month...
     
  2. Apr 17, 2016
    nickmil

    nickmil Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    11,213
    Does yours have a square head or "Allen style" set screw? I probably have the square head one if you need. Plan on disassembling it as the shift rail and fork needs rotated to remove and install the set screw. This is why I generally put a dab of thread locker on the ones I put together. I've seen a few come loose and some that didn't take much torque to remove.
    I don't do safety wire on those but not needed with the thread locker (if used properly).
    I'd still contact the rebuilder and see what they would do. If truly reputable they should take care of it. May interfere with your trip though.
     
  3. Apr 17, 2016
    j54mitsu

    j54mitsu Member

    Alexandria, VA
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2010
    Messages:
    123
    It's a square head. I'm going to try to source one locally tonight/tomorrow, otherwise, awesome I will contact you to order one. Should I use a PM?

    Darg! I remember from the last time that I rebuilt one that the shift fork is one of the last things removed/first things reinstalled so I was afraid of this answer. I suppose that it be wise to start sourcing lockrings and other small things that might get destroyed in a rebuild.

    Is it possible to safely remove the output shaft without removing the intermediate shaft?
     
  4. Apr 19, 2016
    nickmil

    nickmil Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    11,213
    You are best off taking it out of the vehicle and disassembling/reassembling on the workbench. Don't try and short cut it. Everyone I've seen that tried it weren't happy with the results.
    Follow the FSM/TSM instructions.
     
  5. Apr 23, 2016
    j54mitsu

    j54mitsu Member

    Alexandria, VA
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2010
    Messages:
    123
    I'm taking it off to rebuild today. And probably putting the old mitsu tcase back on so there is no rush.

    Thanks nickmil. Also, I'll gladly take you up on the setscrew. I've pm'ed you with my phone number so we can talk details. Thanks!
     
  6. Apr 24, 2016
    j54mitsu

    j54mitsu Member

    Alexandria, VA
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2010
    Messages:
    123
    And the guy rebuilt the Mitsu case wrong. So now my backup needs a rebuild too.

    The hi-lo shift rail is turned 180 degrees such that the lever can't fit in it. (Both rail notches are facing the same direction instead of each other, with a gap in the middle, like it should be for a Dana 18.)

    That's 0 for 2 rebuilds, I'm a bit flabbergasted, I thought that Herm was "the" guy, but he has sure been making me regret opting for an overdrive. Anyways, this thread isn't the place to complain.
     

Share This Page

New Posts