Cracked d18 E-Brake Drum

Question:

I was just sandblasting the D18 Ebrake drum from my transfercase and I found a hairline crack from one of the mount holes that extends about an inch into the drum webbing.

Considering just drilling a small hole at the end of the crack and then using it.

Thoughts anyone? Not sure what 'forces' are at play here once it's bolted down other than radial. Provided I'm not an idiot and I don't leave the e-brake on while driving I don't know if the stresses are such that it's a hazard to have as is.

picture coming shortly

 

I would replace it. Should be plenty of used ones around. I don't like things flying apart when driving down the road...


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Thanks.
Was getting ready to take a photo and noticed the crack goes all the way to one of the relief holes. Replacing.
Photo seems moot now.


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Good plan. Keep in mind the driveshaft (and hence the drum) are turning way faster than the axle shafts. Let's say you have 4.88 differential ring and pinion. The driveshaft (and the parking brake drum) is turning just under five times for every axle shaft rotation. That's a lot of centrifugal force on that drum at 50 mph
I posted this so anyone else reading will hopefully understand my earlier statement


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replacement drum found from a member here.

scraped some caked on baked on goo off of it with a wire brush and scraper. a few minutes in the HF Media blaster, some primer and some rattle high-temp engine black and I'm in business.

THANKS AGAIN EARLYCJ5 for being a great resource!

PPE Nightmare #979:
FYI: cleaned my existing e-brake shoes up with a scraper, and passed it through the media blaster (yeah - can't be good to breathe either).

finished cleaning up the shoes (leveling per se) with the belt sander. Still have some good meat on the shoes, may be 1/3 left.

Anyone have experience with either the replacement shoes from Walck's or Herm? Herm's worth the extra $$?

I thought about just having mine rebuilt locally, but it looks as if that's not an option. Calling a buddy later at lunch to see if there's anyone left doing it.

I can make do now until I resolve the age old question 'to pad' or 'not to pad'.

 

I'd re-use and re-install the old shoes......9 out of 10 times you might have an oil leak at the rear output seal, even after a rebuild...
Until that's resolved, why ruin the new shoes?