F134 will not run

I second what Walt says. But don't change a bunch of stuff at once for no particular reason, or you'll never know what was doing what.

Try to be systematic make sure each basic is correct, one thing at a time... Start with basic tune-up specs.

After a while it can't help but run, whether it wants to or not!

 

Yes they were, but not so bad I couldn't clean them up. After installing the fuel pump, it wouldnt fire, so I cleaned up the points which fixed it. Started right up, idled fine, so I started driving down the street. Hard to tell since it was dark, but it looked like there was quite a bit of smoke. Might not be more than usual though. As soon as I tried to accelerate, it would buck and cut out. After about a minute, it would barely move under its own power. Still idled fine, however. Even while not moving it cut out if i pressed the gas. Sounds like a carb problem right?

 

My dad thinks it could be bad gas, so Ill try that tomorrow. Ive already taken apart the carb a couple of times and if anything is wrong I missed it. The accelerator pump definitely works, because I can see it shoot out gas when I look down the intake and move the throttle.

 

Not bad gas, cant find a problem with the carb. Im out of ideas.

 

Vacuum leak, by the symptoms. (Idles well, won't pull a load) Check the carb gasket, and make sure the mounting flanges (ears) on the carb base are not warped from over-tightening.

 

Check the timing.. Sounds like the bolt that holds the dist. in position might be loose. It will idle but spit
and have no power.

 

He said he adjusted the timing. But otherwise with those symptoms it could be a points/timing issue. Worn or dirty points would do it, as they effectively alter the timing.

 

The points show a voltage drop of about .6V, while the manual says .2V is the maximum acceptable, so this may be it. Ill order new ones. I'm not sure why they would have gone bad, however, because I have only had them for a couple of months.

 

New points off the shelf have a thin film the manufacture (some) put on them to prevent corrosion. I always pull a thin piece of white paper through the points (applying slight pressure) and you can see the black foreign material on the paper.

 

Hi first try going to the jeepcj3B page:
Distributor installation jeep CJ3b Page.
Also the Carbutor Kits you get from the parts house are the wrong ones. You need the one with the spring loaded needle
Try Walcks. Good luck

 

It wasnt points. Im reluctant to buy a walcks kit, because im not really sure if that is the problem. I think Im just going to get it rebuilt and go from there.

 

You said you didn't have a ballast resistor. You need the resistor or a 12V coil with an internal resistor otherwise you will burn up the points in no time..

 

The coil says no resistor required.

 

Check make sure that the needle is spring loaded in the carb.
If not the carburetor will start then flood out. Hope this helps

 

Good news! I decided to swap in an old condensor, and its running now! For whatever reason, the newer one still tests good but obviously is not. What about that needle though? Im not sure what you are talking about. If there were any springs before, I did not remove them.

 

Great news. And thanks for posting that you got it fixed and what the problem was. So often on forums, the followers are left in the dark on that info.

Bill

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

Did it cure the white smoke?