Carter YF won't start without starting fluid

So I have a freshly rebuilt stock hurricane 4 and a professionally rebuilt Carter YF. It would start up perfectly each time until recently. Now it will not start unless I spray starting fluid down into the carb. What causes this?

 

probably a fuel problem. starting fluid is kinda hard on engines have you tried dribbling gas down it instead?

 

That still doesn't solve the problem. I would like to be able to turn the key and have it start right up.

 

Rings too tight? Getting gas?

 

It does ring. Once it starts it is getting plenty of gas. When I push the gas pedal, fuel squirts into the carb when it is off.

 

I would check points, etc. Make sure the new rebuild is still in tune, before messing much with the carb.

 

There are no points. I have a modern distributor. It runs perfectly once it is started...

 

You first need to determine the age old question.....is it Fuel or Fire related ?
To determine Fuel or Fire try starting the Jeep.
If it does not start then go straight to the problem.
The spark plugs are exactly where the fuel and the fire must come together in unison.
Remove the spark plugs to visually observe their conditions.

Damp spark plugs infers ignition problems.
Wet spark plugs infers carburetor flooding.
Dry spark plugs infers problem with fuel delivery.

Assuming your CJ's problem is fuel related; then read " FUEL DELIVERY ":

http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/index.php?showtopic=4289

Measure the level of fuel in the fuel well ...........

 

Here you go the Info. for the Carb.
Go to YF Carburetor tips on the CJ-3B home page:
[h=2]Repair Kits[/h]
Generic repair kits can be a problem. As the CJ-3B has one of the smallest engines to use the YF (the YF was used on the Ford 300 CID 6-cylinder,) some kits which may be offered may not have correct gaskets, and especially the correct fuel valve. The fuel valve used for the 938 series carburetors was part number 25-190S with an orifice of 0.076 inch. The more common YF (used on Chevrolet and Ford) used orifices from 0.093 to 0.101 inch. Do the math with the equation for area on these and you can understand why many experience flooding problems. The YF as used on the Jeep will take 5-1/2 pounds pressure if the proper fuel valve is used. Many repair kits of today have too large an orifice. The larger orifice requires more buoyancy from the float (at idle), resulting in flooding and the need for a fuel pressure regulator.
Also, the correct fuel valve for the 938 series was spring-loaded. This fuel valve was developed by Carter for use on 'rough service' carburetors (off-road and marine). Its function was to smooth the jolting of the float, maintaining a more constant fuel level in the bowl, and minimizing damage to the float. If the Jeep is used only on the streets and highways, the replacement solid valve will suffice; however off-road Jeeps should use the spring-loaded fuel valve. At The Carburetor Shop we make a superior repair kit which does contain the spring-loaded fuel valve (for carburetors where it was specified by Carter), as well as many other parts not in the parts store kits. We also make kits for the W-O, and YS Jeep carburetors. Check out our website. Should other carburetor questions arise (1974 and earlier only), please telephone and we will try to answer them." Also I think that Walks have them?

 

With the engine cold you should (1) check and see if the accerator pump is squirting gas into the carb. If it isn't then there's no fuel in the bowl or else the accelerator pump is bad and needs to be fixed. (2) Check and see if the choke is closing properly AND get the specs for your vehicle and make sure that the choke isn't closing too much or too little. I've found that that is critical to starting properly.

There's also a fuel passage that allows a small amount of fuel to flow out below the trottle butterfly expressly for the purpose of providing fuel of cold starting. You may have to check it too but that's more involved.

 

I would check the choke setting.
If you have fuel streaming in when you depress the pedal, then I think your choke isn't closing all the way like it should. Is it maybe stuck open?