brake pedal sideways slop

I will weld that hole when my friend comes into town and can use his arc welder (i think arc will make for a better repair than flux cored mig)

jwjeep60 were would I be adding a heim joint? its not clicking in my brain yet.

 

Piffey and other fellows: Since Piffey brought this up, I've noticed how sloppy my brake pedal is. The band aid fix shown in the link to the way-back machine won't work on my 71 because the cross shaft on mine is solid. Also, I noticed not only the main shaft hole in the pedal is egg shaped severely (nominally should be 1.00", some parts of the hole are 1.070") but also the pivot point for where the master cylinder connects is very badly worn. So then I thought I would get a bushing from Mcmaster, machine out the pedal and press in the bushing. But I happen to see that kaiser willys is selling a complete new pedal arm for $30.

http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/728/willys-jeep-brakes-linkage-parts-accessories

I don't why I would try to save the original part, especially since a new bushing in the old arm would not fix the worn master cylinder connection point anyway. Here is a pic of my old arm. I'll let you know the quality of the replacement arm when I get it.

Sorry for hijacking your thread Piff.

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I went to ACE or one like it. Got some all thread, with nuts to fit and yokes with a hefty pin the same size as that hole in the arm that has a cotter key hole and key.

Measure the distance between the clutch pedal arm hole and the hole in the arm on the crossover tube using that bent rod that goes from one to the other.
The all thread gets cut off just a tad shorter than where it would be flush with the bottom of the threaded hole at each end. Ya want a little slack take-up space here maybe.

Slide that hefty pin through the yoke and the pedel arm hole and slipped in the cotter key and split that back to hold the pin in place. Threaded one of the nuts onto the all thread, then spun the all thread into the threaded end of the yoke to the point where it was flush with the inside surface of the yoke and locked it down with the nut.

The other end I threaded the other yoke onto with the other nut and adjusted it to the point where there is minimum slack between the two arms, Popped in the hefty pin at that end with its cotter pin. Test to see how much play you have at your pedal. Much easier to adjust it at the all-thread than at the end of the cable coming from the throw-out arm. When you have it where you want it lock the nut down against the yoke, and split the cotter pins to hold the hefty pins in place.

The bearing surface goes from being the hole that is worn in either arm to riding on that hefty pin at each end. Spray the hefty pins with Silicon spray or Graphite spray for lubrication, if you feel it is needed.

My clutch has been using this set up for 5 years now. And I can reach the all-thread much easier than the end of that cable for adjusting it now.

I would take pictures of all this, but am laid up for the next 2 1/2 to 3 months after surgery on my right foot. The family members here won't let me go out and play with things at the moment.

 

Homersdog: you aren't hijacking, its good info to know in case I have to replace my brake pedal one of these days.(although its kinda neat that I got the brass or copper brake pedal) I will have to check my brake pedal for the 1 inch just cause I have it out. Although I didn't notice a problem with the pedal once I found the cotter pin hole.


1960'swillyscj5: that's fine about the pictures, I read over your post a couple times, I keep getting confused. When you are referring too yoke is that the pedal cross shaft with the metal tab with the hole in it were the clutch rod goes into?
its ashame family catches on quick about injury's the jeep is first thing to go....hope its a speedy recovery for ya though

 

http://www.clevelandcityforge.com/products/products_main.html?source=index

The one I use is the one in the middle, all though the one top left would work, also.

http://www.clevelandcityforge.com/products/products_main.html?source=index#yokeends

 

Or one of these would do the job, and might even be the right length to start with:
http://www.clevelandcityforge.com/products/products_main.html?source=index#turnbuckles

 

I went through this a little while ago and it was a pain... On mine the cross shaft and the pedal were both worned out. The new pedal needed to be bent like the original to fit in the floor, so make sure you have access to a torch. There was also an issue with the pin that hold the master cylinder rod. If I remember well it was welded crooked at the factory. And yes the exhaust needed to be dropped to gain clearance unless you drill the rivets and install bolts for the cross shaft bracket. I left the rivet in since I had to do exhaust work at the same time.

I kept my old pedal and will eventually put a bushing in there and save it for the future generation.