F-Head Flywheel

Since I am struggling with flywheel woes on Putt Putt, it's time to ask for help. The PO I got Putt Putt from claims he installed a heavier flywheel. I know this is a common 4-cyl performance trick but where did the flywheel come from?

1. I'm betting the F-head flywheel bolts up to the L Head crank. Does it?
2. Is there a weight difference?
3. Is there a tooth count variations (is it stamped on the flywheel).
4. Will an F-head starter bolt up to the L-head block?

I heard from someone that there is a tooth count difference on 4-cyl flywheels and it is commonly overlooked during swaps (appears identical). I have also heard that it will work with the wrong starter gear with some ill side effects (random grind-idge).

I'm wondering if this is my problem.

...

 

ah ha! 124 & 129 count --and 97 (3/16 smaller dia.) :? Plenty of room for error.

I bet that is why a mismatched starter gear "works" on 124 or 129 but short lived. Just guessing based on my starter gear but I bet I have a mismatch. Need to tear into it to find out. Starter gear is in great shape though!

At least those ring gears are cheep at Krage! Order now for Spring arrival!

 

Took advantage of the near 50* thaw today! 8)

Jerry and I pulled the trans out of Putt Putt. I confirmed a couple things.

1. Flywheel is a 97 count but the ring gear appears NOT changeable? :?
2. Gear on counter shaft in the T90 is chewed up which was my "chucking" noise.

Is this a really early flywheel or am I misunderstanding how to replace the ring gear?

 

according to my books, the MB and 2A used the same flywheels/ring gears
ring gear should measure: 97 tooth, 10.980ID X 12.185OD X 3/8" wide
it is replacable, using torch (heat to expand it) and remove from flywheel
take note how it comes off
should be a chamfer (taper) which indicates proper installation direction
don't know of any other available flywheel that would work besides the stock unit
on the starter I seem to recall the earliest ones( MB/2A) had the aramature shaft extending into a bushing inside the bellhousing (in other words, no nosecone on the starter, all open)
later ones have a nosecone and the tooth counts on the bendix are different
Kodiak probably can help here

 

Jim Thanks!

Just a minute ago I Googled to find this heating method. Torches, gas grills, etc. Fortunately, its very cold here but need to find a torch. Not sure if MAPP gas will work.

My nosecone is not supported as you mentioned. The edge of the ring is chewed as if the starter gear doesn't engage all the way. I need to check the tooth count of the starter.

 

Jon
in most instances, we're talking heating till it's glow orange FYI

 

I was reading something in a Farmall writeup that mentioned simply freezing the flywheel (MI translation: leave in driveway in February ) and heating the ring to 250* in the oven --will slip right on.

In another write-up --->Getting off: hammer and punch every 1" all around.

Opinion? Will the Willy's come off the same?

 

for removal of the old one, I would probably drill a hole into the side of it (ring gear, not flywheel), then hit it with a cold chisel and split it
for install of new one, I would heat with a torch evenly all the way around till it slips on

 

If you have access to heating in an oven the best way is to put the flywheel in the freezer and heat the ring gear in the oven to 450*, I have built tons of stuff at work and assembled and used the shrink to fit method, if you heat the ring till its red you take a severe chance of warping the unit and will definately take the temper out of the teeth as I am sure they are case hardened for wear. Using a cold chisel to remove the other one is however a very good idea. Just to remember to assemble it quickly!!!!!!!

 

w3srl, this is not about a flywheel. but the l head. i read ecj5 for about a year but i don't write in. sorry. anyway you say you have 5 l head rebuilds . do you do them yourself or have it done? and what do you think warrants a rebuild? you see i have a 1968 cj5 with a l head that ticks. i just got a price for a full rebuild from a vg shop. but $2500.00 is to much for my budget.ps this is a great forum. i learned alot. thanks jim j.

 

Here's what I take from this:
* Jon makes great ribs! Not only did I get to wrench, I got to eat!

* My wife is going to be real suprised when she finds Jon's ring gear in the basement freezer! I even have an oven next to the basement freezer!

 

R) Yup --Beer and flywheel

I found my box of T90 parts and counter gears. One small chip that can be filed and it will work. Also, after closer evaluation of stuff, There is a starter bushing in the bell that Steve mentioned. Should dig that out too. I've read that if the front bearing cage on the T90 has movement, get rid of it. How about throw-out bearing? Feels full of grease but does have some side-to-side "slop" Normal or wore out?

 

definantly on the cage bearing. When I pulled my t-90 to put in the low 1st gear unit, found that it had a plastic bearing seperator that had desintigrated. All the bearings at the bottom. No wonder it wouldn't stay in 2nd gear.