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Wiring problem, alternator issue.

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by foreman, Jun 24, 2012.

  1. foreman

    foreman Deere Tech

    Hello everyone, today is a great day. I drove my jeep today for the first time. I started on this project 3 years ago and today i drove it for the first time.

    Back to the issue... I don't have wiring for the alternator. I don't know were the wires for the alternator go to. Can I run the heavy wire directly to the solonoid on starter? The other two wires should be the signal and the ignition, and I don't know were they are supposed to go either. Some sort of wiring schematic would be great. All the threads that I look at the links won't work with new websight.

    I guess I should tell you it is a 60 cj5, f134 with a 12 volt alternator.
     
  2. EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Can you post a picture of your alternator? That will determine the proper wiring.
     
  3. foreman

    foreman Deere Tech

    I work at a implement dealer and one of the tractors we work on has the same alternator. They have a plugin with wires and connector for it that make it real easy. The plugin has two female pins in it, they sit side by side, and that plugs into side of alternator. One wire goes to the heavy wire on back of alternator, the other goes to the amp meter in dash. The wire that goes to the amp meter has a diode in it so the alternator doesn't drain battery. Seems like a slick setup.
     
  4. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    and if you want to use the factory idiot light look for a grey wire in the harness.......
     
  5. Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Note: using the grey wire from the idiot light (stated above) and connecting it to slot #1 on the alternator eliminates the need for the diode. The small bulb and the fact that the other side of the bulb is connected to the ign switch turns off all power when the switch is off eliminates any battery drain from this circuit.
     
  6. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Yup.........well posted I was lazy
     
  7. foreman

    foreman Deere Tech

    Thanks guys. With the alternator charging the battery voltage is around 12.5 to 13. Does that sound about right, most charging systems I work with run around 14 volts. I am running a deep cycle battery out of my boat. I turned head lights on voltage stayed above 12.5, and reved up the voltage goes alittle over 13 then back down to 12.5. The alternator is pretty old but seems to charge. Just currios if voltage is correct. I know I shouldn't use the deep cycle, just have not bought a new one yet.
     
  8. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

  9. Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Your readings on output voltage are too low. Check for alt phasing (growl or whine) loose belt (slipping) low amp output alternator. The deep cycle battery should still read +/- 14.5VDC while charging. Check the voltage (while running) directly from the output BAT stud on alternator and compare to reading at battery to see if they are the same. They should be less than 1/2 volt diff.
     
  10. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    I will just about guarantee he needs a different pulley or to rev it a little to get the Alt "on line"
     
  11. Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    What he sez (reved up goes a little over 13) so that would mean the alternator has kicked in and once it does then it won't drop back out until it is shut down. It is possible like you say that the pulley is too big for the F134 to spin it fast enough. Low amp output alternators as used on equipment that don't get many restarts during the day like back-hoe for example, are able to rebuild even an 8D cat battery but it will take a half day to do it with no other drain (Diesel) for ex.