Anyone Build their own Frame???

Been looking around the web at folks fabricating their own frames out of 2x4 tubing. Most just stack the front and rear sections on top of a center section. Albeit most of these i have seen have been on flattys, but I was wondering if anyone here has done something similar for their intermediate? I did some searching and saw that lots of you guys have either boxed or strapped the stock frame, but I was thinki ng it maybe nice to start with all new material. $2000 for a TDK frame is out of the question for me.

 

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?88481-Building-a-new-and-improved-Jalopy-frame

This guy made up a complete frame with a full coil conversion...you could stay with the leaf if you want.

Lots of details!!!

hope it help!!

 

Ttt anyone

 

There was an article in a recent JP on this subject on an intermediate 5 IIRC. They did it exactly that way with gussets nearly the same way Garage Nome did it.

 

That was a good little write up, Thanks!!

 

GhettoFab also built a really nice frame here too.

 

I think this is for an intermediate or late cj

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?35039-Just-a-small-project&highlight=small+project

 

the measurements in jp were wrong...they printed a correction in the new one

 

Right! Yeah one thing that concerns me a little bit is the front frame height. By building one of these simple "stacked" frames, I looks like the shackle mounts would be higher with respect to the lowest point on the frame. I'm thinking there are two options for correcting this: (1) Build shackle mounts that hang down farther OR (2) Run longer shackles. If using option 2, I'm thinking the mounts would have to be slid back on the frame to achieve a proper shackle angle, and I'm worried this may cause some steering box interference or other adverse effect. I'm not terribly excited about option 1 either, as it may look poorly engineered. However, It may be the most beneficial method, b/c it will allow me to build in a bit more lift. And it may also not be as bad as I think b/c they shouldnt have to be spaced down that much (I'm thinking no more than 1.5" depending on the length of the shackle I decide to use).

A little bit of info on the planned build:
I am planning to run either waggy 7 leaf front springs on all four corners, or a combination of waggys at one end and trooper rears at the other, or Holbrooks. I am looking for about 2.5-3.5" lift SUA and around 4" of wheelbase stretch. I will be using Toyota mini truck 8" axles (IFS rear 58" WMS-WMS and '83 or earlier front with 1.5" wheel spacers which will net 58" WMS-WMS). The drive train will be the original 258 to a NP435/D300. I may be getting a 1980 model D300 which is only 10.5" long compared to the normal 12". I haven't actually pulled a tape on it, but from the info I have been able to find online, the distance from the axle centerline to the pinion yolk/flange face is 11" on the toys and 9.75" on the AMC 20 (current rear axle). From the back of the engine to the rear of the T-case my drive-train should only end up 1.38" longer than stock if I use an '81 and later D300 and EXACTLY the same if I use the 1980 model. So I need to gain some wheel base in the rear to have a rear drive shaft of any length. My current shaft only measures ~13.5"! I honestly would like to be able to avoid stretching it at all, but it looks like its gonna be necessary. My overall build approach is to keep it within the confines of what it was meant to be, a small nimble 4x4. I simply want to improve the suspension performance and off-road/crawling ability. I think the extra width from the Toyota axles will give it some extra stability w/o getting too wide. I am also trying to decide whether or not to widen the frame out to 29" on center to match the Toyota perch width, or keep it stock width and out board the springs in the front. Keeping the frame narrower should offer move suspension flex due to the increased leverage on the springs, but may decrease the stability on side hills and increase the roll center. By widening the frame the inverse of the former would be true, but I gain room between the rails to potentially clock the T-case up higher and route exhaust. The only other ill effect I can think of from widening the frame may be the tires contacting it during max suspension compression and turning, but if that doesn't happen on a Toyota it shouldn't come into play here. One major benefit I see to the frame ends being higher (especially in the front) is the additional clearance between the top of the axle and bottom of frame. This will allow for more up-travel and steering link clearance under compression.