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CJ6 Rollcage, gonna pull the trigger...

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Boyink, Nov 19, 2004.

  1. Nov 19, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
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    Just throwing this out there to see if I'm missing anything...

    I'm pulling the trigger on a cage for SSDutch. I'm planning a full cage with integrated seat and seat belt mounts. The cage will not be tied to the frame (with the longer CJ6, I'd expect frame cracks around the tie-ins from frame flex...).

    Finding a fabricator in the area was tough...Here's who is going to do it:
    http://www.jcroffroad.com/

    They're over 2 hours away but offered to come get SSDutch on his trailer. His estimate for doing the work was reasonable, and several folks on the MIJeepers board recommended him.

    Here's an example of one of their cages:
    http://www.jcroffroad.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=90

    I'm not crazy about how the middle stringers are higher than the outer ones - I want all horizontals at the same height.

    Here's the basic profile of what I'm thinking:
    [​IMG]

    I need to sketch out more of what I'm thinking....but basically it's:
    - Overall, following the shape of the softop and trying to maximize interior space.
    - Three side to side main hoops (front/middle/rear)
    - Four horizontal stringers running front to back (outer edges, and 2 down the center spaced ~8" apart, enough to get a Tuffy overhead console between them..)
    - Side to side bar at the base of the w/s.
    - No "shoulder bar" behind the front seats, in order to keep rear seat access easy.
    - The rear seat tie in needs to not block the tailgate opening (see his last pic in the link above).
    -Front seat mounting position needs to be as close to where it is now on the orginal mounts.

    Variables:
    - Front legs. I've thought about going through the dash but can forsee having to remove the cage for a couple projects....might just be easier to do the traditional straight down front legs. I'm used to it.

    - Rear seat belt shoulder attach points. I bought a full set of TJ seat belts, and I'm not sure if the placement will work out such that I can use the diagonal side brace as a shoulder attachment point. There might have be a short vertical downtube in there to serve that purpose.

    Thoughts? Anything I'm missing?
     
  2. Nov 19, 2004
    LWB

    LWB ..they call me "Cooter"

    Chicago
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2003
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    206
    Are you going to do it the same style as in the pix, or are you doing a front hoop?

    Keep in mind the style of cage will determine where the outer bars are located, the radius of the bend on the main hoop will make for a much taller middle with the side bars closer to the side of your head with the style in the pix.

    A front hoop is harder to bend (This is why most builders don't do them), but will make it much easier to keep the side bars away from your head. It also looks more traditional, and can match the windshield better.

    Be aware of parallelism- you are spending a good amount for the cage (Although Brimy is very reasonable on prices), and if you can tell bars aren't parallel in online pix, you will definately be able to tell in person. (And it will eat you up if you are a perfectionist)
     
  3. Nov 19, 2004
    LWB

    LWB ..they call me "Cooter"

    Chicago
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    D'ooh, just reread your post- there is a front hoop.

    You will want a kick on each end of the outer spreaders to keep them away from your head.
     
  4. Nov 19, 2004
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
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    Sep 24, 2002
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    Mike, on the dash penetration or not...I've considered running this piece (the front vertical) down to just below the dash and then turning and intersecting the floor at the very front. It's hard to explain, but basically just straight down till you can bend it towards the front just below the dash.
     
  5. Nov 19, 2004
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
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    938
    Mike have you considered asking him to make some safari doors integrated into the cage?

    Removable of course for when the soft top is on.
     
  6. Nov 19, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    You mean those little tube doors?

    Don't really care for them myself. I like being able to kick a foot out the door when tooling down the road.
     
  7. Nov 19, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
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    No, I know what you mean...but I was worried it would make the cage harder to pull in and out, because you couldn't just drop it straight in.
     
  8. Nov 19, 2004
    michigan_pinstripes

    michigan_pinstripes I'm not lost, I'm wandering

    Clarkston MI...
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    Aug 20, 2003
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    I like his SWB Stage II kit for $385 installed!

    Give him the above requirements and let him do the creative work to meet your needs. One of those BTDT things that only he knows. You are going to spend hours drawing and may not accomplish much. Let him consult you with a plan prior to building and tweak as needed.

    Kind of what you do for clients. I'm sure many have a grand plan and want you to build it. What really happens is you fulfill their needs with your experience and BTDT to ultimately sell them a better product. They end up more satisfied and it may not look anything like their original scheme!! ;) Not always the case but I'm sure you can relate!!

    Looks like a good choice of fabricator!
     
  9. Nov 19, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I hear you Jon...I just want to make sure I get something I'm happy with visually...I'm trying to retain the "ECJ" look and not get a Jeep with a jungle gym slapped on top of it.

    Kinda hoping to give him some visual direction, and let him modify it for safety or easier fabrication.
     
  10. Nov 19, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
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    I'm thinking not.

    I had straight bars on Dutch, as we couldn't figure out to work the "kick" in and stay away from the softop:
    [​IMG]

    My head passed under those just fine, and comparing height inside the softop to a 5, the 6 has 2" more in the center, so that middle hoop can be taller.
     
  11. Nov 19, 2004
    LWB

    LWB ..they call me "Cooter"

    Chicago
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    The problem is once you bring the bars that far up, there is no protection for the side of your head, as a tree leaning into the side of the Jeep (or the Jeep leaning into a tree) will come in to the area where your head resides.

    Most rolls are side flops, and I like having the outer speaders out to the edges of the soft top so rock intrusion is less likely.

    It is no problem to bend a bar this way- just two small kicks, one at each end.
     
  12. Nov 19, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    Looking back through my pics, this one is pretty close to what I was thinking. I don't *think* it would fit within the softop though, as the rear hoop looks too high and straight.

    But take this idea, give some inward angle to the rear hoop and shorten it, and it's pretty close. What I like is it has a visual simplicity.
     
  13. Nov 19, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    JM2CW - that front bar at the base of the windshield looks like a real chin basher to me. I've broken my jaw in a rollover, so you don't have to make a high-speed barrier crash to hit your head on the dash or wheel. This is especially dangerous for the front seat passenger.

    Re the shoulder harnesses, I'd try to find a way to include them, esp. for the front passenger. However, the horizontal bar behind the seat is again a chin-bash hazard for the rear seat passengers.
     
  14. Nov 19, 2004
    speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    Living the Good...
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    Mike-
    I am taking Speedbuggy in next Friday for her new cage. Actually looking forward to it. I am having the same guy that built the cages for my stock cars build this one. I have the luxury of no back seat, so I can have the crossbar added to the rear hoop for the harness. Good luck with yours. If it is like that old Bronco we saw at the dunes, you'll be happy with it. ;)
     
  15. Nov 19, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    Shoulder harnesses will be used all-around. Up front the mounting is a no-brainer, we'll just mimic the TJ setup. Just the rear seat shoulder attach point is a question, whether a specific bar will have to be inserted or we can just grab the diagonal support.

    Up front I'm not sure how you'd get your chin on that w/s bar, between the shoulder harnesses and the distance to the w/s (keep in mind the seats wil be farther back than stock). If I sit in the passenger seat and bring my head down I just graze the existing grab bar, so anyone shorter should be fine.

    I'm not planning a middle side to side bar at the front seat shoulder-height as it would require stepping over to get into the rear seat. Even if I did, I think the back seat would be back far enough that it wouldn't be an issue (CJ6 advantage..;)
     
  16. Nov 19, 2004
    oldjeep

    oldjeep Sisyphus at work

    Victoria, MN
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  17. Nov 19, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Mmm, yeah. When I had my CJ6, I moved the rear seat support to the front bracket, and used the space behind the seat for storage. The kids might like that better. Looking at the picture, you have already scooted the seat forward some. The stock position is all the way to the rear, just like a CJ5.
     
  18. Nov 19, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    The rear seat is strangely placed as is - there's way more legroom in front than need be (excess for me even). I'll be moving it around 3" forward yet - still keeping enough legroom for me but gaining quite a bit of storage in the rear.


    Yeah - I've studied Terry's quite a bit. There's alot I like about it, but the flat-across profile will kill some headroom under the cage in the middle. I don't want to lose that...;)
     
  19. Nov 19, 2004
    XJ_Ranger

    XJ_Ranger Tide rocks my socks off

    Lincoln, NE /...
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    personaly, i think that making the cage tied into the frame is the way to go. If i were to roll id want something more than the floorboards holding the chassis off of me. And contrary to your cracks belief, i think that it would stiffen the frame and help to eliminate frame flex - especialy if you went through the firewall and to the front of the frame as well (under the hood).

    unless you are unsure if a body lift is right for you, then id put the cage right on the frame at all 3 pillars. The A pillar i would go through the floor straight down and then have an angled piece that goes to the framerail (if that is possible on your rig)
    the B pillar i would bend in so that right behind the front seats the cage would rest right on top of the frame (through the floor again) and then the C pillar i would go through the floor and attach to the frame with the same configuration as the front.

    Also i would consider a bar allong the sides of the seats to keep the front from moving back - similar to the lowest bar on this cage that connects the B pillar to the A pillar right next to the seat:
    [​IMG] (yes i know this is in an XJ)

    i would also consider some gaussets in the corners to add a little rigidity and make nice hand holds to jump in and out from:
    [​IMG]

    the best piece of advice - when a cage goes in, people expect it to save their life in a roll, build yours so that you will trust it to accomplish this and have no worries about it.
     
  20. Nov 19, 2004
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    my o.2 worth
    1) stand firm with the 3 hoops; money well spent; you might consider 4 for a sand bar effect in the middle, say 4 inches wide max with metal strap welded covering gap
    2) consider full size/length wheelwell plates for the rear hoops, rather than individual smaller mounting plates; adds more weight, but increases strength IMO
    3) consider matching mounting plates underneath the body, especially the front cage supports; kinda like a sandwich effect with the body in between (may not be good for your winters, another area for corrosion)

    I would take some pics of mine, but the top is on for the winter.
    Take the time to sit and discuss your ideas and your vision; most fab folks have no problem listening and will add there thoughts and ideas as well.

    on mine, when taking out or installing, I have to use mininum of 4 ratchet staps pulling/compressing to get it in or out FYI
    but it should fit like a glove
     
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