Drilling larger holes in body

I replaced the rear panel awhile back and now I need to figure out the best way to drill or cut our the holes for the gas filler and lights. I need some pointers as to the best tools to use for this job.

 

large holes?

and I'm not even sure what a chassis or body punch is.

 

thats funny to me,, I just welded up my filler and light holes in the HD corners I bought .
the cutter above works well if it's lighter metal ,,,,or hole saw -if your careful, is the jeep finish painted?

 

Sorry, the pic didn't show right away I guess.

I viewed a youtube on the metal hole punch...seems to be the right tool for the job.Do you know of a decent source, I can't say that I've ever seen one at the FLAPS?

Nothing is painted, but it is welded in place. I've used a hole saw before on other things, but the resulting hole is not very clean.

 

the 7/8" and 1" I use for cam lock installs in desks and cabinets...
they cost $135...for each set.
I have another set for deadbolts into metal doors; this set insets the latch into the end of the door for a flush mount...that set is $250....
I would just use a good hole saw.
a rubber grommet bails you out.

 

Yes, chassis punches are expensive.

Hole saws are another option.

The cheapest way is draw your hole on the panel, and drill lots of small holes around the inside circumference of the hole. Then use your half-round file to approach the line. If you are careful and patient, you can make an excellent round hole this way.

Another possibility is to use a jigsaw to remove most of the material, and then finish with a file.

 

Greenlee...

http://www.all-spec.com/products/Greenlee/Tools%7CWire_and_Electrical_Tools%7CTOL-22/737BB.html

 

For a one time job I'm not spending that kind of money. I think that the drill and file route will have to be the way to go.

 

The hole saws will leave a much better looking job than the drill/file route and are relatively cheap. I use them for all kinds of jobs, up to about 5". They do not work well for soft metals like aluminum because the teeth quickly clog and require cleaning, but mild steel is no problem. I have cut 2 3/8" holes through 3/4 plate with them. The Starrett's are the best and last a long time. ENCO or MSC sourced.

I have a Greenlee electrician's hole punch set that goes up to 1 1/2" pipe size and they do make a cleaner hole, but for a one or several times use, certainly not worth the money. Now, if you are wiring a new house with steel conduit---priceless!

 

Those prices look a little better. I'll see if I can find a good quality hole saw locally. The only problem I've had with them is they seems to walk a bit side to side, even when the center hole is punched through. The hole ends up looking pretty bad.

 

I use 2-1/8" hole saw 3-4 times a week installing deadbolts in doors.
As long as the hole saw is sharp, the pilot drill is sharp and straight, and the arbor is straight, it's a no brainer.
When bits and hole saws become dull, folks use pressure to overcome that.
Let the cutting tools do the cutting, and don't exert a ton of pressure on them.

 

what size are you looking for ,I inherited /got a bunch of Greenfields I could send it to you as a loaner,,,,of course you would have to sent it back.

 

1 1/8", 1 3/8", 3"

I'll send you a PM.

 

I'll go look ,it's in the garage in the box of seldom used tools .

on the hole saws I have had great luck with the Lenox brand and plenty of oil.

 

Just a comment about drilling and files - it all depends on technique. It will take a long time compared to these other methods, but you can make just as nice a hole - nicer, IMO - than a hole saw. Draw your line carefully, and like Jim says, don't force the tool. Use a fine enough file that there are two teeth across the thickness of the metal at any time. This will leave a fine finish and sharp edge, and avoid 'cogging' that will make it hard to approach your line and stop, and easier to distort the metal.

Consider it a Zen experience. Remeber that the file cuts on the forward stroke only, and just like a hacksaw, you lift the file off of the work on the return stroke.

 

I would use a hole saw or for a larger hole, say 2" or larger a jig saw with a metal cutting blade will do the job.l