ez wire question and DUH! moment

Hi guys another question regarding the rewireing of my 75 CJ5. The EZ wire kit I'm using calls for the fusable link to be spliced into the main feed wire which is 10ga. off of the selenoid post. To me its kind of a shame to have to splice in this 14ga. wire with a flimsy aluminum terminal end crimped on, to this heavy 10ga. wire. I know the fusible link is there to protect the entire circut from frying but I forsee possible conection problems down the line at either the conecting but splice (10ga. to 14ga) or the cheap terminal end on the selenoid. Has anyone had problems with this set up? Has anyone changed the fusble link out for a plug in fuse element where the 10ga. wire would be used at both ends? As a side note, I spent the better part of two hours trying to run down why I had no power to my headlight power wire before I hooked it up to my switch. I got so confused I was begining to wonder if I the circut was suppose to work the way I thought it was. I finally realized the fuse was left out of the headlight terminal on the fuse block. I then realized that the loose circut breaker in the parts bag is supposed to get plugged in to the headlight circut. Of course that little note was found "ON the LAST page!'DUH. Two questions. Why is there a circut breaker instead of a fuse for this circut. And why not ship the fuse block with the circut breaker in where it should go. What makes it a little more confusing is the lettering for the headlight circut on the fuse block is directly above a circut with a fuse attached. There is a little arrow pointing to the next spot on the fuse block where the headlight circut actually is.

 

Well, a circuit breaker is superior to a fuse. If the breaker goes, it will reset on its own. Maybe there's some reason why it's shopped separate from the fuse box - if it sticks out it could get broken in shipping? Guessing.

The fusible link is a standard way of wiring these harnesses. The factory harnesses contain fusible links. They are quite reliable, as are the crimps they are held on with. I expect they are used instead of a fuse or circuit breaker because they are dead simple, so nothing can go wrong.

 

Fusible link... You will notice this item is located in the engine compartment. It is there to protect against thru firewall shorts prior to reaching the fuse block. It also has a coating on the wire that does not burn. The fusible wire can burn in two and you can't see it so you have to pull on both ends of the link. If the coating stretches then the wire is melted.

 

My opinion is the factories went to fusible links for the usual reason: CHEAP

I looked into this quite a bit when I was rewiring the 3B (from scratch) and I finally went with this:

 

Thanks for the input guys. I've decided to just use the fusible link for now. It's been a year long project so far and I want to get this thing started again. I left enough extra wire if I decide to change it later.