A few questions

1) What is the correct way to weld spider gears? I'm sick of getting stuck because my suspension doesn't flex very well. mehh I don't drive the Jalopy on the road, so that's not an issue. I don't really feel like changing the suspension at this point in time either.

2) My power steering pump was getting wicked hot. Too hot to touch. Is this good? Something is telling me it isn't and is going to lead to bad things....

 

1)How about a "lunch box" locker instead of welding?
2)I'd say your pump is on the way out.

 

1) I'm thinking of doing some axle swapping in the future, so I don't want to dump money into these (D25, D41)

2) Oh joy... Excuse me while I get my can o worms now.

 

You may have a problem with the ps pump, but they usually either make noise from worn vanes/pump surface or they leak. A ps system can get very warm when you a working it hard off-road. I would suggest a good ps cooler and if you have a remote reservoir, put the biggest one you can find in there. I also added a regular 1 qt hydraulic filter to the return line. Here is my ps cooler:

 

Hmm... thats an idear. The only problem is that I have an electric pusher fan on that side of the radiator. I probably could take the metal fan off the engine and put it on the other side...

 

There are a lot of different configurations available for small coolers. Perhaps a long thin one (similar to the stock ones used in 90's GM pickups/trucks) might fit along side your pusher fan. The GM one has a bracket to bolt to the radiator support.

 

I think the power steering pump let go today. It is making a wurring noise and it is a little harder to steer than before.

 

Sounds like you need a new pump and a cooler now.

 

Honest opinion, get a new pump and use it for a while and then decide if you need a cooler. Jeeps likes ours generally don't need coolers simply because the vehicle is so lite that the pump never really works. My guess is your junkyard pump was run low on oil or contaminated at one time which shortened its life. If you do get a cooler mount it under the hood on the fender, it will get enough airflow to cool the oil anyway, it doesn't need to be mounted in the grill frame or even near the radiator.

 

When you put on your replacement pump, put the end if the return line into a coffee can and start your engine for a second or two run some fluid out before you connect it to the pump...just in case there are contaminants from the old pump in the system. Might save you the same headache in the near future.

ks

 

I thought at first you said to to put coffee in the pump.

It's starting to squeal pretty badly now. My dad has a couple spares, so I'll try one of those.

 

Regarding welding, the ones I've seen have been nearly a solid mass of weld. That's why they're called "Lincoln lockers" - because you use your Lincoln tombstone welder and a can full of rod to weld everywhere the spiders are accessible.

http://www.google.com/images?q=linc...k&ct=mode&sqi=2&ved=0CBsQ_AU&biw=1280&bih=893

 

I used a Miller GMAW, and I didn't have to put all that much weld on it. I talked my welding teacher, and he said that the way I was going to weld it would be plenty strong.

Heres the front diff. I also did the rear in the same fashion. The power steering pump is really whining now. The new one should be in this week.



And then I noticed this crack in the frame. 3 out of 4 sides were cracked.

 

Uh, thats not a crack, thats a break!!
And now that both axles are welded I would expect more.


Why isn't your suspension flexing, these old jeeps were better at flexing than any factory leaf sprung jeep.

 

Welded front ends are very hard on steering and power steering parts.
I would expect lots of future repairs.

 

Yeah, about that.... tried it, hated it, ripped the front end apart, replaced carrier. I left the rear welded. Luckily I have plenty of donor axles.

 

The frame break looks like the classic case when someone just ran a bead down the crack. At least it is a place that is pretty accessible.

Probably get some flack here but I am going to say it anyway: I think permanetly locked diffs should be totally avoided. They probably cause at least twice (and perhaps even 10x) the erosion problems of an open or limited slip and you obviously can not turn them off when not needed. Much of the off road community seems to be oblivious to erosion and associtated water quality issues-a big part of why we are finding more and more closed gates. If you wheel someplace where there is NO precipitation-fine-weld'em up.

 

Yeah, I agree with you there. That was one reason too why I switched the front back. The rear won't do too much damage.

 

You're not going to get any flack from me. If more 'wheelers had your attitude there'd be a lot fewer trail closures than we are now experiencing.