rebuild q's

due to my flywheel issue, I've decided to do a tear down a la Thompology. Due to my computer stoopidity, (and losing all my book marks), i have a lot of questions. Most of them are general, like where the hell is all this info at? I understand Timgr worked at a dealership, and there is a lot of hard lessons learned, but it seems like everybody but me knows what parts are compatible off a waggy and the model years that will work. is there a master compatability chart somewhere? I apologize to those of you that will answer the same question for the umpteen billionth time,if you can just shoot me a link, i will figure it out or ask specific q's. So now that you know i am lost in the sauce, maybe you can answer a few questions that i have before i begin this teardown.
1. 73 Dj5 parts compatability- rear axle, drive shaft, gas tank, steering wheel, speedo, hood&fenders, starter, alternator, rad, dizzy, MC and steering box.How much of the engine parts are interchangable between 258 (mine) and a 232?
2. Shackles- seems like almost all new shackles provide some type of lift. How much is too much before i have to worry about steering geometry and such. Is this even a problem?
3. DJ parking brake- has somebody done this and is there a writeup? My stock pedal assy is gone and i would like to put one between the seats or another "handy" location.
I'm not looking to do anything major, just get it where it's mechanically sound so i can drive it to work because i want to and safe enough to take my boys to the store. Thanks for the help. Dan

 

Do you have a '73 DJ now? Or are you asking what is compatible from the DJ to ... something else?

Regarding the engines, the 232 and 258 are basically the same engine externally. The crank, rods and pistons are different between the two. The 258 crank has a longer stroke. Note that the 232 from before mid-1970 is different from the later 232 and 258.

There are some differences between years of 232/258s though. The head/valve train changes around 1973, and the pulleys/water pump/accessories go through some major changes in the '70s.

If you have a complete engine and need a new engine, just get the whole engine and put your accessories (external parts) on the new block. 232s basically have scrap value today ... nothing wrong with the 232, but there is no demand. 258s are also cheap and widely available.

There's not one "unified" source for this information - this web site is about the closest to it. The Google search engine will pull up lots of good info from here - go "site:earlycj5.com <key words>" on Google and you'll get lots of hits.

I learned a lot of stuff at the dealership in the '70s, but I also have learned plenty by just hanging around here and reading/contributing to posts that interest me. They say Rome was not built in a day... likely true

 

BTW if you were thinking of taking a flywheel from a postal... postals have automatic transmissions, and don't have a flywheel.

 

Timgr- As for the flywheel, i'm planning on following the advice by flipping and rotating. I have access to a 73 dj at a local pick a part and figured i could get parts off that if they were compatable. I have not been able to find much in the way of donor vehicles here in el paso, so as of right now its the dj or mail order.

 

Keep in mind a flex plate and a flywheel are different and NOT interchangeable. A flywheel is used between a manual transmission and the engine. A flex plate is between an automatic and the engine. Which are you running, automatic or manual.

 

73 Dj5 parts compatability- rear axle (NO) housing has a slight offset , drive shaft (NO), gas tank (YES) but its only a 10 gal tank, steering wheel (YES), speedo (YES) , hood&fenders (NO) hood and fenders are shorter, starter (YES) , alternator (YES) , rad (YES), dizzy (YES) , MC (YES) but its manual not power and steering box (NO) its rhd .How much of the engine parts are interchangable between 258 (mine) and a 232? all externals will interchange
2. Shackles- seems like almost all new shackles provide some type of lift. How much is too much before i have to worry about steering geometry Anything over 2inch and such. Is this even a problem?
3. DJ parking brake Its a fairly easy conversion Ill see if I can find a diagram- has somebody done this and is there a writeup? The windshield glass will also fit also the front and rear 11 inch brakes will fit
Hears the parking brake diagrams its both pedal and hand brake set ups
http://webtools.delmarlearning.com/sample_chapters/3519P-08.pdf

 

Oh, ok. Not much is compatible.

Steering wheel - yes
Speedo - maybe, likely yes
Hood and fenders - no
Rear axle - no
Drive shaft - no
Gas tank - maybe, probably not
Starter - likely yes
Alternator - maybe
Radiator - don't know, but I suspect not
Distributor - yes
Master cylinder - don't know
Steering gear - no

It'd help to put the specifics of your Jeep in your signature, or in the text of each of your posts. You can modify your sig at the user control panel. Click on "User CP".

Does the DJ parking brake lever go on the floor or under the dash? If it's on the floor, I expect you'll need a shorter cable. Go and look at the DJ for inspiration - I expect it functions the same as the foot pedal, except that the cable from the yoke under the Jeep is shorter. If so, take everything from the yoke forward from the DJ, and use the CJ-5 wheel cables.

 

wow, i guess that i won't be able to get much off it then. I guess i can use the fenders or hood to learn/practice some sheet metal welding. I am running 31's, any input on the shackles? Thanks for everything so far.

 

Shackles get less stable as the length increases. Thats why most tend to be thicker than stock and have the center support when they are "lift" shackles
You get about half the lift that the shackle is longer.(.750" lift for a 1.500" longer shackle)
My personal opinion about shackle lifts is anything more than that is kinda cheeseball. Basiclly enough to make older sagging springs look closer to original ride height.

 

As far as DJ stuff, I have the same dilema. Only a few DJs at the bone yard, no CJs

I am still amazed at how few parts can interchange between a DJ and CJ.

I have only been able to use the choke heat pipe to the carb, the timing chain cover and alternator bracket(and even the bracket is not perfectly fit) and the rubber floor mat from the rear of the DJ

 

dred- looking through the quadratec catalog all but 1 set offer some sort of lift over stock. am i good if i stay within say 1 inch but have to deal with other issues (like steering and driveshaft) if i exceed that? That's what im looking at. Thanks

 

The small lift shackles won't normally cause any issues.
Replace any bushings while you are in there (just because).

 

thanks guys....i am surprised at how little is interchangable with a dj.

 

Yeah - there's was a civilian DJ-5, which has a lot in common with the CJ-5, and there are the postals. To me "postal" means the vehicle was built on-contract for the USPS, with RHD, automatic trans, and that distinctive slide-door body. All these changes, plus the USPS spec, makes them share few of the parts we care about with the CJ-5.

The postals were called DJ-5A, DJ-5B, DJ-5C, etc and are a mish-mash of purpose built stuff and off-the shelf parts. There's a list of the DJ-5x models here http://www.offroaders.com/tech/jeep/Jeep-DJ.htm

 

Its a postal. still has the seat, RHD and sliding doors. I have line on a 65 w/258, 4 spd and t case. Supposedly frame, engine and tranny are good it just needs some bodywork and seats. For the price i am considering picking it up, throwing in my spare seats, hitting it with the rattle can and driving it. Then i have a driver, and a project! Of course i will have to worry about space in the garage because that is where i will have to sleep since the wife will want to kill me. chainsawguy. Now i know it doesn't "just" need bodywork and seats, but i can act stoopid. :? ( i don't know what happened)

 

No crime in putting together two incomplete/rust-bucket Jeeps to make one good one. Happens all the time.

I'd snap up the '75 (65? I'm confident it's not a 65) 258/T-18 ... the 258/T-18 combo is great. Customers really liked them back in the day.

 

Timgr- No its a 65. I realize its early as opposed intermediate so i was not planning to use it for parts although i'm sure there are a lot more parts compatible (early to intermediate) as opposed to postal to cj. Although the thought did cross my mind to to swap the tranny out. Instead of making 2 into 1, i would have 2. Get one on the road and use the other as a project.

 

No, the forum is not the problem. A 258 (any inline 6 really) won't fit in a '65 without a lot of body cutting. It may be a '65, but it's unlikely that it has a 258 in it.