Tub removal questions

I almost at the point where I'm ready to pull the tub on my '5, but I have a few questions.

1. Do I have to remove the fuel tank before taking the tub off?
2. I can't get the parking brake cable disconnected from the pedal assembly, how do you get it off?
3. I can see clips holding the taillight wiring harness under the tailgate housing. Is it necessary to remove these and take the wiring out before pulling the tub?
3. I tried to take the body bolts out and all but one of the captured nuts are rusted free and turning. I am planning to get an air chisel and knock the heads off the bolts. Does this sound OK?

 

1. no
2. The cable slides out of the clip. Put a vise grip on it when it is pressed down.
3. ?
4. I used a sawsall

hope this helps.

 

Did you just take a sawsall and cut right through the rubber bushing and the bolt?

 

Yes, because I was getting new bushings to replace the old anyway.

 

I just took the body lift off of mine, of course after I welded in floor patches, and now have to cut new holes in the floor to replace the longer bolts with shorter bolts. Also, if you are planning on adding a body lift, plan on extending your clutch linkage rod, and if you are removing one, plan on cutting said extension out and re-welding it. Ask me how I know..chainsawguy

 

If the '78 is anything like my '75, the harness goes through the cabin (inside) to reach the rear. If it's clipped to the frame at the lights, just unclip it. If it's clipped to the body, leave it alone. There has to be a ground - same drill; if the harness is grounded to the frame, you'll need to disconnect it. If to the body, leave it.

 

1. No
2. Remove the clip. This is a great time to replace the cable.
3.Yes. Remove the plugs and break the plastic clips(if they are still there) and pull the wiring through. Later you can use a coat hanger to pull the wiring back through the opening.
4. Get some roofing felt layer it about 3 ply thick and put it on the frame using duck tape. cut out the area around the bolt. Then use a acetylene torch to heat up the end of the bolt while using a air chisel. Get it red hot use the chisel then repeat. My Dad just did this with his 65 Buick Skylark and barley scorched the power coat.

 

My 72' Cj5 harness recently replaced with a rod-12 circuit.. improvised with regulator and dash additional wiring to ensure the original alternator light functioned as designed... the rear wiring harness (firewall to rear... including the transmission backup light switch.. reverse) was originally routed from firewall (beneath)... to rear via/ along within the "C frame" the drivers side frame C-channel... using flat harness slip clips to secure the original harness within the frame "C" (five clips used in total and two across the inner tail just above the fuel tank). I did re-enter the cabin just behind the drivers seat for speaker wiring via a rubber grommet.

If any pictures could assist? Drop an email to banjo_pkr@me.com and I will be glad to take em and attach for remail to you.

Gunner