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Bodywork?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by mruta, Nov 5, 2004.

Page 2 of 2
  1. Nov 5, 2004
    double R

    double R Member

    Reseda, CA
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2003
    Messages:
    332
    on my cj, the PO used lead on some areas of the body and when i welded too close to the leaded area, the lead melted...
     
    double R, Nov 5, 2004
    #21
  2. Nov 5, 2004
    mruta

    mruta I drank with Billy!

    Downers Grove, IL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    422
    For simplicity's sake, I think I'll stick with bondo for now.

    John- apparently that is a very common area for rot. For some reason, that is one of the only nice areas on my CJ5 though. On the A1, I think I might even go so far as to cut out the ratty part of the brace and and replace it with a fabbed piece.

    Jon- you saw my tub, let me know if you think its better than yours. Once my A1 is rolling, I'l have no use for the 5 tub. Any time you feel like coming out to Chicago for a tour of the shop (or to use the shop) just let me know!
     
    mruta, Nov 5, 2004
    #22
  3. Nov 5, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    Mike-

    I'm with the other guys here; I cut out the bad area to eleiminate ALL the rot and then fabbed up a patch that overlapped the hole by 1/2" in all directions. Then I used the flanging tool to put a lip on the patch that made the patch line up perfectly with the rest of the panel, and put the patch in from behind. Punch or drill 1/4" holes in the flanged lip of the patch and grind it all clean, including the pacth and the backside lip of the body so you have good clean metal at the mating surface. Then you can clamp the patch in place and use the 110v MIG to fill in all of the holes from behind, working from alternating ends of the patch to minimize warping. You'll end up with a nice, even patch that will require minimum bondo to fill.
     
    w3srl, Nov 5, 2004
    #23
  4. Nov 5, 2004
    TigerShark

    TigerShark Sponsor

    St. Louis, MO
    Joined:
    May 27, 2004
    Messages:
    333
    I was wondering if anyone has tried this method and what your thoughts are on using it?

    No weld panel repair kit

    I have never welded before and don't know of anyone who owns a MIG and this looks like a reasonable alternative. I'm just unsure of its weatherproofness.

    Jim
     
    TigerShark, Nov 5, 2004
    #24
  5. Nov 5, 2004
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2002
    Messages:
    2,362
    That stuff should work fine. Autobody shops glue door skins on all the time.
     
    scott milliner, Nov 5, 2004
    #25
  6. Nov 5, 2004
    rocnrol

    rocnrol Member

    calgary alberta,...
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2004
    Messages:
    170
    when it came time for my body work, my father-in-law is a body man :D , i said i didnt want any bondo either. he told me i was silly as it is only bad bondo jobs that give the stuff a bad rep and just to trust him. so i did.
    well i tell ya, i got some trail damage in one rear panell, and to get the bondo off is going to require a long time with a grinder befor its all off and ready for the fix. that stuff IS ON THERE. do it right and you have no probs.
     
    rocnrol, Nov 5, 2004
    #26
  7. Nov 6, 2004
    Kaiserjeeps

    Kaiserjeeps New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2003
    Messages:
    38
    Here is a very good link to a comprehensive guide to body work. Everything from bondo, paint, spray guns, welding, pretty much everything. I have found it to be very handy...

    http://www.autobody101.com/downloadhere.php
     
    Kaiserjeeps, Nov 6, 2004
    #27
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