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brake switch testing ?'s

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by unclebill, Sep 23, 2010.

  1. Sep 23, 2010
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

    a sun blasted...
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    lets see if i have this right.
    method 1:disconnect power to switch
    set multimeter to ohm's
    depress pedal.
    if it says 0 the switch is good.

    Method 2; run a jumper from a know 12v source to one of the connectors, take your test light and ground the clip then touch the other pole (pedal depressed). if it lights , your good.

    am i on the right track?
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2010
  2. Sep 24, 2010
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    Yepper. Hydraulic action of the m/c closes the switch, completing the circuit. Let off the pedal, switch opens and breaks the circuit.
     
  3. Sep 24, 2010
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    yep, thats how its done. FWIW i dont like this type of switch, had one blow out under pressure then no brakes :shock:
     
  4. Sep 24, 2010
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    the lights worked for a minute this morning.
    it has got to be a loose wire.
    dont it?
    or do bad switches stop and start working?



    before too long the slug will have a different engine/brakes/steering.
     
  5. Sep 24, 2010
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    could be either, if the switchs contact points are dirty it could be making connection every now and again......
     
  6. Sep 24, 2010
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    Psst, got a old clothes drier laying around? they have a good microswitch that would work well for this, any why with a man of your status could have that baby in there in a snap;)
     
  7. Sep 24, 2010
    mortten

    mortten I can’t put my finger on it 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I had a switch that showed good with a meter (both continuity and power) but would intermittently light the lights. When I swapped in my Dana 30 and bled the brakes it worked all of the time. Must have had an air bubble in it. It would show 12 volts with a meter but wasn't activating the switch completely. When a load wad applies there wasn't enough amperage to run the lights. Just my theory of course.
     
  8. Sep 24, 2010
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    An air bubble will def cause you grief. The bubble will compress, whereas the fluid won't. If there's a bubble, it can compress and absorb the pressure, causing the switch to not activate. Fluid under pressure will just move, operating the switch. Can certainly be an intermittent thing, lights may werky, may not werky. Or the switch could just be NFG, how old is it?
     
  9. Sep 24, 2010
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    about 1 year old.
     
  10. Sep 24, 2010
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Don't forget that the stop light wire comes back up into the turn signal switch then it goes to the rear lights. When the stop light fails, try wiggling the turn sig arm and see if that helps.
     
  11. Sep 24, 2010
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    will do
    thanks!
     
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