66 CJ5 Rebuild

Shipping quote to 85741 for the front diff cover??? That looks sweet, I might just have to copy that.

 

3D autocad??

Terry

 

Hi Terry, the program I used is SketchUp by Google. It's a lot of fun and they have plenty of tutorials to help get started. Download it for free and check it out.

Xarmtdawg, I may draw up that diff cover just for fun. I'm thinking it will be a pain though...I do like a challenge.

 

Machined some 3 degree shims to replace the old ones. Not as nice as Mcruff''s, but it will do. R)

 

Some more updates on my build. Here are some shots of the frame in the "paint booth."





Today was even more exciting....Frame and axles unite! R)









Here you can see the u-bolt plates I made...Great fit





Front diff cover on and painted



Front bumper and shackles





Fuel tank is in....and it fits perfect with the axles and springs in place..





Okay.....not everything was perfect...
I made a special u-bolt plate for the passenger side Dana30. Due to its design, the 3/8" cold rolled steel flexed as I tightened the u-bolts....I was not expecting this at all (This was from 60 foot pounds, 70 was recommended by the leaf spring guy). But after looking at the design, I can see why it happened. With the relief cut for the diff and the increased distance from the axle tube to the u-bolt holes, I created a weak area. I will make a new design with either a 1/2" plate or I may put a doubler plate welded on top of the same style plate (new un-bent one of course).

 

From that angle it looks like the u bolts are bent as well?
I am suprised that 3/8 would deform like that, is it possibe that the machining process would somehow weaken the steel?
Frame and tank look fantastic Pielut.
Regards
Terry

 

Yep, the u bolts are also bent...the machining process wasn't the problem, just the design.
Posted via Mobile Device

 

I wonder if some flat stock welded length wise on its edge across the top would be enough to stop the bend?

Nice work, anyways!!

 

Jim, how much did your u-bolts move? I thought about making some aluminum keepers, but your design would work as well.

 

Wow, you have mad fab skills. Keep up the great work!

 

Time for some updates...I have rebuilt my manual Saginaw steering box. I'm not sure on the exact make of the box. The numbers on the top read 5666723 59. I followed a well written rebuild guide that was posted by Timgr Overall the rebuild was easy. I purchased the rebuild kit from the company mentioned in the article, but they were expensive $87.
I have made a detailed list of parts and places to get them. The cost is much lower when you buy them separately about $25. I have not found the gasket. Here is the list

Upper pitman bushing is .825 long and .062 thick
Part number. Omix#:18002.02 And can be found here $3, need 2
http://www.performanceparts4less.com/gdcicat.html?partid=736853
or
Steering Gear Box Sector Shaft Bushing, 18002.02, Omix-Ada - Car & Truck Aftermarket Parts & Accessories $5
Lower pitman bushing 1.358" long, O.D. 1.246", I.D. 1.118"
Same as upper, just shorter
Worm shaft bushing AMPEC, #5666683/93
1.5" O.D., 0.312" thick, 1.08" I.D.
http://www.bearingsdirect.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3452. $6 a piece need 2
Pitman seal 1.440" O.D., .200" thick
Markings, KCY 28 36.5 5.7/7.6 TTO C684 2
Found here Sector Shaft Oil Seal, 18002.03, Omix-Ada - Car & Truck Aftermarket Parts & Accessories. $2 Omix #18002.03
Seal on worm shaft 1.3" O.D., .250" thick
Markings KCY 19 33 6.5/8.5 TTO C367 3
Found here Worm Shaft Oil Seal, 18002.04, Omix-Ada - Car & Truck Aftermarket Parts & Accessories. Omix#18002.04 $2

Here are some of the rebuild pics
Worm shaft with goo


Parts


Upper bushing, pain to remove


New lower bushing and seal


Worm shaft installed and lubed






All done and painted

 

Time for some shock mounts. For those who aren't following, I installed a Dana 30 front axle. I also flipped the u-bolts, so the stock shock mount normally on the u-bolt plate isn't an option. I made my own mounts using 2 1/2" by 1 1/2" rectangle tubing 0.125" wall thickness. The width of Rancho 5000 shocks are 1 1/4" at the mounting location, so the shocks fit right in. The placement of the rear mounts where determined by keeping the original location. The front shock mounts where placed near the original location. I moved the mounting location as far aft as I could to make more room between the shock and tie rod. I also had to consider leaving enough room between the shock and the new u-bolt plates.

Rear mount








Front mount


Front mounts before paint

 

The mounts look great, but they also look vulnerable to bashing.

 

That's okay John, I know a fabricator that can fix them if they get smashed on the trail

 

Roger that!

 

Just wrapped up the brake lines. I purchased all the 3/16" brake line from NAPA along with the fittings. Brake hoses are from Autozone. I used a rear brake hose from a late 70's CJ (part 77034) because they are longer than the early CJ. The only difference with this hose is the slightly larger mounting hole. Front brake hose is part 77204. The Wilwood proportioning valve and residual valves are from Amazon. I'm planning to use cushioned clamps (Adel clamps) to secure all of the line to the frame. If I can find some plastic anchors, I may use those instead. As you can see, I have a 2lb residual valve plumbed in line with the front brake lines and a 10lb valve for the rear. I have also removed the valves from inside the master cylinder.

 

Nice!