Need Help Please!

Ok, I was driving around my subdivision yesterday. The engine was running fine all was good. All of a sudden the engine started sputering and died on me. I could not get it to crank. I checked the usaul battery and wires. I must have move something right she crank right up, but she was still trying to go dead. So i decided to try to make it home. I drove about 50 feet and it died agian. This time no crank at all. When I turn the key I can hear the silenoid click. The starter makes no noise at all. I took the lead of the starter and touched it to the pos. side on the battery and got nothing. I assume I have a bad starter. I tried to bang on it with a hammer to see if it was stuck. I have a 73 cj5 with a AMC 360 engine. It's been running great for the last month. I put fresh gas in it the day before. I have been smelling a gas around the shop, but i fiqured it was coming from the broken vent hose on the gas tank. Is there a way to rebuild the starter or do I need a new one. Can the starter cause the engine to die?

 

New battery, but I'll check. Didn't have any problem crank when it did

 

What would cause an engine that was running great at 40 mph to just start sputtering and die?

 

fuel delivery problems or ignition

 

Battery should be on this list also.

Batteries can fail internally------your comment on the first post about "must have moved something" -----I have seen batteries with a loose post, intermittent contact inside the case.

The fact you just changed the battery is noteworthy......

Might want to check it out.

 

I had a battery do this a year or so ago. drove me nuts until i figured out what it was.

 

Check out your alternator. I experienced intermittent problems with my 75 not starting, starting sometimes and dying, etc. Turns out I had some bad connections on my alternator wires Check your wires and connections. Make sure your engine block is grounded with a cable (4 gauge) to the frame and negative battery terminal, the starter and your ignition system is grounded by the block. A good way to do this a to run a 4 gauge battery cable from the negative battery terminal to one of your starter motor bolts.

The NAPA Premium starter is sweet, lifetime replacement if you hang onto your receipt.

 

Ok, NO luck yesterday this is what if done. I had the battery check - passed.
I replace the solenoid with a new one. I check my grounds everywhere. I replace the wires from my alternator to the voltage reg. I put all new connection on the wire in the ignition system from batt to solenoid to starter. I used a volt meter to check connections. Battery reads 12.5 v, batt side solenoid 12.5 v. switch on starter side solenoid 12.5v. Switch on starter connection 12.5v. The solenoid engages but the starter makes no noise at all. That’s all I was able to last night. When working 12 hr days it's hard to get other stuff done. So I would guess the starter is bad. Where do I go from here?

 

I was reading another thread and I have a question, I don't have a vapor canister under the hood. I have a liquid check valve in the rear driver's next to the fuel tank. The hose that would go to a canister is just laying loose in the engine compartment. What problems would this cause with the way the engine runs. And where can I find a canister if I need one.

 

I may have missed something, but as I see it, you were mot-ovating down the road and it sputtered and died?
No crank, nothing?
I'd say it's a battery gone or a charging problem, you ran outta juice to keep the spark.
I've had batteries plates bumped together and it shorted out the battery.
See if the battery CAN take a charge, then test your alt.
Look at your wires, (more than once I've melted wires under that hood).
Once you get it to crank, you cna check your fuel deliverly system.
Joe
9 out of 10 jeeps are still on the road, that 1 jeep owner had AAA towing and had it towed home!

 

I posted that had the battery tested and it was good. I replaced all the wires and connectors I have 12.5v at the starter but the starter does nothing.

 

Take the starter out and try to run it on the ground with a battery and your battery cables. Or take it to your FLAPS - they usually have a starter test bench.

Voltage at the starter does not mean much if you can't deliver the current. An open circuit will always show full potential along its whole length, even if the internal resistance is high (and resulting current will be low).

A battery will always read 12.6V until it's fully discharged - the electrochemistry requires it to produce that potential, regardless of how much current it can make.

You could also take your battery to your FLAPS and have it load tested.

I suggest you ask your canister question in a new thread.

 

My 67 just did the same sputter and die routine. Turned out to be the fuel pump. Worth checking next if electronics have been covered.

Peter

 

Ok, I fixed the starting problem. The starter was bad. Fixed it and now it will crank. So I tested it out. I drove for about 10min and it died again. I had to poor gas in the carb to get it to run. a few mins later it died again. So i pulled in the garage, i got running again and this time i watched it. I could see the gas going in the jets as I pulled on the throttle. I could see gas going into the filter. If i pull the throttle fast it died. if i pulled it slow and revved up high, once it went down it died. So i decided to see how long it would just sit and idle. I started it back up left it alone. it would sit and idle high then low, high then low. Finally after about 5 min it would idle so low it would die. any ideas where to start don't know much about carb engines, so threat me like a fifth grader.

 

Pulling it fast and killing the engine sounds like your accelerator pump is not working. Even with the engine off you should be able to look down the throat and see two shots of gas squirted into the throat when you pull on the throttle. It sounds like it's going lean because you're getting a shot of air with no fuel in it. The pump is supposed to add the gas until the air velocity in the carb throat gets fast enough to draw fuel through the mains on it's own.

 

I just replaced the accelerator pump diaghram. I though i might have messed something up. I have looked over it 3 different times. How do I make it more rich if it is to lean.

 

Any one know where i van find a service manual for a mc 2100 carb. google was no help

 

I'm not familiar with what you have for a carb, but some have different holes in the pump linkage to change the pump shot. Others will have to chime in here. There is a check valve ,(a BB size ball), beneath the pump plunger that would keep the gas from pumping back into the float bowl when the pump is activated. If this was stuck or missing you would not get the gas pumped into the carb throat. Did you have this out during your carb fixing?