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V6 Timing chain installation

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Project71-5, Jun 7, 2010.

  1. Jun 7, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    897
    Grab a :beer: as this thread is a bit longer than what I normally post

    Finally received my Edelbrock 7828 timing chain today (what a nightmare when they are back ordered) and made some progress tonight. I'll update this thread as I progress with the eventual intent of doing a write up for the main page.

    Oil pump cover before (approx. 105000 miles, never apart)
    [​IMG]

    Cover after lapping with 400 grit on a piece of glass. I'm happy with the outcome
    [​IMG]

    Timing chain, fuel pump eccentric, dist. drive gear, and cam thrust button installed. Oil slinger is missing from these pics but I did install it ;)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Timing mark alignment

    [​IMG]

    Where I left off for the night

    [​IMG]

    The only thing that I didn't do was put a bead of RTV around the harmonic balancer seal before pressing it in. I think it should be fine though.

    I did have to move the cam and crank into alignment slightly when putting the new chain on. My old chain was stretched so much that when at TDC and 0* on the timing cover marks, the marks on the old gears were slightly mis-aligned. Hopefully this helps with some tuning issues I have been having and makes for an overall better running :v6:

    Speaking of tuning, I pulled the #1 plug to have a look and this is what I found

    [​IMG]

    Its not as white as the pics show because of the flash, but it is a grayish white. I think it may be running a bit lean or is it the wrong plug? Plugs are Autolite 85's gapped at .040" with an HEI distributor. Any opinions on this?
     
  2. Jun 7, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
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    Rub your finger on the metal ring at the base, around the edge where the ground electrode is. Got black?
     
  3. Jun 8, 2010
    hotrod351

    hotrod351 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
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    225
    thats pretty much the color the plugs will be today because of the gas. if you want them tan then put some octane booster in the gas. at least thats what my plugs look like in a few of my engines and there burning fine. the old days the plugs used to be tan and white would be lean, now its light grey instead of tan. your sure doing a nice job on everything. with your chain being stretched that bad you should notice a big improvement on power.
     
  4. Jun 8, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Yep. Not likely to see tan color with today's unleaded fuel.
     
  5. Jun 8, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
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    Huh, never knew that and its good to know. I was always taught that tan was good. The guide in the back of my Chiltons manual also says that tan is how it should look. Thanks for the info.
     
  6. Jun 8, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Gray is where it's at.:D
     
  7. Jun 8, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
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    Made a little bit of progress tonight

    [​IMG]

    Also had a bit of a setback...:rofl::mad:mehh

    [​IMG]

    Anyone ordered a rebuilt harmonic balancer from Damperdoctor.com? It list a rebuilt unit for a 64-67 225, which should work on my 71.

    http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchan...ode=DD&Product_Code=BUI2251&Category_Code=BUI

    Edit: The damperdoctor.com unit looks to be different that what I have. I do have a spare back in Cincinnati....gonna call my brother and see if he can ship it out for me.
     
  8. Jun 8, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Ouch! How did that happen?
     
  9. Jun 8, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
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    Lets just say my method of holding the harmonic balancer while torquing the bolt didn't work :rofl: :rofl:
     
  10. Jun 9, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Did you say a bad word? :)
    I thread some longer bolts into the pulley holes, and put a pry bar between the bolts.
     
  11. Jun 16, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
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    More progress. Only tightened the harmonic balancer to 70 ft-lbs for now. I'll torque it on the rest of the way once I get the V6 timed and don't care as much about moving the timing mark around.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    All I have to do is put the radiator back in, change the oil, and top off the coolant. :)

    Its been quite some time since I've filled the entire cooling system. Do I fill thru the radiator and call it good? I noticed that the water pump has a threaded plug on top which I assume is to bleed air out?
     
  12. Jun 16, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    No air bleed; it doesn't need it. Did you remove the grill, too? I've never removed the grill or radiator to do a timing chain.

    Fill at the radiator, let it bubble down, and keep filling until it won't take anymore. Then start it, and run it just until the thermostat opens, then shut it down and top it off. That's how I do it anyhow.
     
  13. Jun 16, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
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    Yep removed the grill and radiator for better access and to really get in and clean everything.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  14. Jun 16, 2010
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    I've usually dropped the oil pan and stuck a wooden tool handle between the crank and block. Someone here suggested that long ago.
     
  15. Jun 16, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    That probably works better, if you have the pan off.:)
     
  16. Jun 17, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
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    Well I got it all buttoned up and went to fire it up only to have it crank twice before the battery died. Off to borrow a charger now...
     
  17. Jun 17, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
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    I have good news....it runs!! Haven't driven it yet but I'm amazed at how much smoother and stable the idle is. I let it warm up, timed it to 8* initial timing, and then set the idle. She purrs like a champ!!
     
  18. Jun 17, 2010
    jc588

    jc588 Member

    Ruston, La
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    Yep, did mine a couple weeks ago. It's amazing what a new chain will do. Glad it came out good for you.
     
  19. Jun 17, 2010
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Good show. Love it when things turn out good in the end..
     
  20. Jun 18, 2010
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
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    Went for a drive today and I'm impressed. :) The pinging I had when lugging the engine in 2nd and 3rd is now gone. I wouldn't say I really notice a power difference but it does idle much smoother.

    My hot idle oil pressure before this project was about 10-15 psi. Cold idle oil pressure is now about 45-50 psi and hot idle oil pressure is about 35-40 psi. Driving down the road it holds around 40-45. I highly recommend the NAPA oil pump rebuild kit and lapping the cover when it is off. Very easy to do and the timing over does not need to be removed.
     
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