75 CJ6 Not Really A "Build"

Installed the new Omix spring hangers. Of course the holes in the new piece don't line up with the frame holes. The new ones have three holes in each hanger. None of them match where the rear hole in the frame is. Used 7/16 grade 8 bolts where the rivets used to be, drilled the rear hole where it should be and plug welded the extra hole just for kicks. Also welded the sides but that was after the picture was taken.

Since my "good" hood was back from the blasters I thought I would get it flat before primering it. Found lots of imperfections I hadn't noticed when it was painted. Most of this filler will be sanded off.

I have been rotating parts through a bucket of toilet bowl cleaner while working on other stuff. I like the way it works. Here is what an assortment of parts looked like fresh out of the toilet. They need very little prep work after a good soak.

I used this stuff to coat the inside of the boxed portions of the frame and the one closed crossmember.

It comes with a length of tubing and a tiny nozzle that sprays out in a fan. It isn't easy to see but it seems to coat pretty well in areas that my paint gun can't reach.

If I were to use it again, I would definitely haul the frame outside. I ended up with black splatter on two walls that were six feet away from the frame. The stuff is also really thin so if you spray it heavy be prepared to have it dripping all over the floor. It dries really quickly though.
Epoxy primered the frame and hood. And set them up to dry in front of the wood burning paint drier.

Painted the frame with a urethane satin black. Came out a little glossier than I wanted but it is growing on me.

I decided I still wasn't happy with my color choice. Sprayed the spare hood with "Mack green" after seeing a beautiful flatty on this sight in that color.

This isn't a good rendering of the true color since it is a thin coat over the yellow I had recently painted on the hood. I still wasn't sure about the color for my 6 though. I am starting to lean toward painting it the original Forest Service green. Not my favorite color but at least it was original to the vehicle. Could probably dress it up with a couple of Forest Circus decals.

 

Orange looks so good on jeeps! hahah! Looks awesome. How did those cracks in the front cross member weld up?

 

They came out okay, but I am not the best welder. Pretty confident that I got good penetration since I could see how it came through the back on most of the cracks. I intend to run a steering box brace like the one rejeep has on his 6. A little bit of money that I wasn't planning on spending but considering what the box did to the Jeep already, a lot more strength can't hurt it.

 

Forest Service Green

 

We have a winner!
I decided to quit wasting time (and lots of money) trying out different colors. I want to keep this rig mostly stock and I never really had a problem with the stock color. Here is the latest color test.


I even ordered the Forest Circus magnets for special occasions.

The plan for today is to see if I can get both axles and all springs prepped and painted. I have to replace the pinion seal on the Dana 30. My understanding is there is no crush sleeve. I was told to measure the exposed threads on the yoke nut and put it back together as close to where it was as possible. Anyone have any advice on pinion seal installation?

 

I really like the light blue on the left.

Regarding the pinion seal, there is no crush sleeve (collapsible spacer) used on a CJ Dana 30. Don't count the threads as that is not accurate. Remove the nut and yoke, replace the seal, replace the yoke, preferable install new locking nut putting a dab of threadlocker on the threads, and torque down to proper specs. Also I recommend a little RTV on the splines inside the yoke to keep oil from migrating down the splines. I put it inside the yoke so as the yoke is installed it smears the RTV towards the outside of the yoke. If you put it on the drive pinion splines it can shove it down into the bearing.

 

I really like both, but I would go with the lighter one on the left.

 

I am going with the color on the left.

Thanks Nick for the information. That's just what I needed.

 

Just paint one side light and the other side dark. Let your mood decide which side you expose when you park it.

 

Got the springs bolted on and the front end prepped and painted.



What is the rule of thumb for tightening the spring shackle bolts? I feel like if I crank them down it will cause binding.
Also had to laugh at my own stupidity for boliting the springs in place without remembering that the axle goes over the springs. Oh well.

Now that I have decided what color to paint it I have to decide which wheels to use. My choices are the Renegade 1's, the 15x8's with baby moons, or the skinnies with AMC colored caps.



I thought that the 15x8's on the right were Ford wheels but the holes in the center are the Jeep sized holes so I am not sure wht their pedigree is.

 

My first car was forest service green. 1994 Full size 2 door Tahoe law enforcement vehicle. I left the antenna on the roof. Anytime we went to the woods people drove in the ditch to let us pass. On a Cj6 that color looks time period correct and it just feels right when you restore and paint the factory color.

 

the semi gloss frame will go away the more parts you hang...
looks good!

 

Got the frame on its axles again.

Started stripping the engine down. I plan on new water pump, new timing chain set, and going to reinstall the intake manifold as the front seal was cracked and likely leaking.

I noticed some pretty good wear marks in the aluminum housing from the water pump. Is this normal? Am I going to need to replace this?

 

It's not normal. The water pump impeller should not touch the cover, unless the bearing got so wobbly that it moved into the cover. Or the impeller was installed wrong on the shaft. Or the water pump was installed without a gasket.

If I had good oil pressure (ie not needing a new cover to improve the oil pressure), I'd go ahead and use the cover.

 

The oil pressure was actually good. What do you guys think of JB weld in the worst of the gouges? I am thinking that even if it broke free the pieces wouldn't be large enough to block water flow. Might get rid of any possible cavitation issues if the water is going around the pump blades at the gouges.

 

I would just smooth it out, unless the gouges were worrisome deep. Run it. An OEM cover that makes good pressure is a prize.

 

Okay. Thanks. That is what I will do.