Tired of carbs, Put in a chevy 4.3?

Im tired of messing with carbs, and to buy a new one to put in is gonna cost 300 bucks from ebay dude that sets them up for the 4.2. there is a 4.3 vortec out of a 97 blazer for sale for 400.
i am not opposed to swapping out motors, but need to know how much more work its gonna be besides just pulling and swapping.
can i use my same transmission? that is the biggie.
if i can it seems like i could just change the motor mounts and bolt it all up, hook up computer somewhere and be done.

If anyone out there in CJ land has done this get back to me please with what was easy/hard about it. what adapters had to be purchased, and what fabricating to be done.

I did search on this, but all the ones i saw were swapping out on older jeeps with different motors and trannies.

Thanks alll, i know you will have some good opinions when i get back from class.

 

Doubtful it will be any less expensive than the eBay carb.

Here's the adapter - http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_1415.htm - there's your $300 gone.

You can convert your 258 to TBI for about that amount, if you're clever and resourceful. Here's an article about a guy who converted his Travelall to TBI for about that much: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53524

 

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69255&page=8

 

Well yall have killed that dream. Guess ebay dude gets some money
Thanks for the advice yall.
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i have about 700 in my tbi setup.

 

Put in a 4.0ltr, prefeerably from a '91-95 HO and OBDI system, it darn easy, even I did that in my J10.

 

I cant handle the simple carb. problems, that is WAYY out of my leauge

 

Are there no jeepers in your area that can help you out w/ a carb issue?

Seems really silly to me to flush $300 down the toilet for one when there's probably nothing serious wrong w/ what you have. There isn't much on a carb that can actually break to the point of needing a new one.

 

I agree.

 

First carb i had was a 600cfm holly 4bbl that came with the jeep. was too much carb and kept flooding out. i rebuilt it and tried to make it work, but then musta overtightened it to the intake and one of the corners of the baseplate broke off.

then i picked up a 2150 from guy i know that had it sitting in the weather for a good many years. i rebuilt it and cleaned it untill it all seemed to work out. after putting it on there and trying to make it run i noticed it leaking at that bar that runs through the bottom, the one that holds the throttle springs and the butterflys. so i figured i'd take it out and put in a spare rod i had...broke out 3 of the butterfly screws and i did not notice that the screw spurred out on the other side too, so when i pulled it out it gouged the hole out more, so now there is no way its gonna seal.

so time for another carb.

 

MC2100 is a good carb, you may be well off to buy a rebuilt one from your local flaps, and switch it to 47 jets.

Or for 1100 you can have a howell tbi kit.

 

for what its worth a holley is very tuneable for next to nothing. on a 4 barrel setup the front jets just screw out with a screwdriver, dont even have to take the carb off, just the front bowl, you can rejet the secondarys as well, requires a special screwdriver to remove the secondary plate, and its inside the bowl as well on the rear. you can even change the rate that the secondarys open up at with a spring kit, again low cost, the accelerator pump is adjustable as well with different diaphrams and nozels. whats a new holly gonna run you, it may be cheaper, and like i said they are very adjustable. last one i bought new was around $150 with $50 worth of parts you can dial in a holley to fit just about any engine. i would imagine all you would need to do is rejet it, dont think there would be a need to change out stuff for the accelerator pump or the secondary control spring, just two bowl gaskets, a set of jets, and the secondry plate and you should be good to go

 

You could do it that way, but Holley does sell different fixed metering plates. IMO a metering plate with jets is only needed if you are a bracket racer or such and need to tune your secondaries carefully.

I have never replaced a metering plate, but I have fiddled with the Holley secondary springs. You can adjust the rate of the secondaries opening and tune the secondaries that way. Compared to the primary jets, it's not a critical adjustment as long as the engine does not bog as the secondaries flop open, and you don't have clouds of black smoke at high vacuum and full throttle.

Back to the OP's problem, one option may be to use one of those 2150s as a core for a replacement carb from the parts store. Should cost less than the eBay carb, but it won't be tailored to your application. Plus the eBay guy's support is good, from what I've heard.

 

thats it?
heck what am i waiting for?

 

Swapping engines is more complicated than fixing/tuning a carb. I mean no offense but if the carb is kicking your butt I think maybe an engine swap is going to cause you a lot of hassle.

 

I have rebuilt about everything else on this thing, but both the carbs i've tried to make work have had vacuum leaks due to being broken somewhere unknown.

You are probably right, but i was figuring as long as i did not have to mess with a carb i could whup it R)

I was really hoping that a lot of it would be a bolt up thing, i had (mis)heard that somewhere.