Calling Motorcraft experts!

I picked up a couple motorcraft carbs last night, now i need to figure out if they are 2100's or 2150's
there are differences in the 2, so which one would be better to use?
both of these are stamped 1.08 on the side.
here are some pictures









the one on the right seems a little cleaner and in a little better shape. but both are in need of a serious cleaning.

the one on the left has different/more linkages and a different bowl/horn thing...

so what say you? 2100 or 2150? left or right better for 258 on 75 cj5?
i have the rebuild kit for 2100, not 2150 so i need to know if i need to go get the other one. i was thinking they were 2100, but then did some looking and now am severly confused about the differences.

 

Both 2150s, I believe. The extra intake on top of the air horn and choke pull-off on a bracket are characteristic. Should also have a vacuum hose to the power valve cover.

1.08 is the venturi size - that's the best one for a 258.

I'd pick the one that cleans up best.

Both Ford carbs, I think, as evidenced by the type of fuel filter.

 

ok, so i need to go back and get the rebuild for a 2150.

In picture 4 there is an extra set of linkages..what are those for and do i need them?

as yall can probably tell carbs are not my strong suit..

 

Bracket with the hole in it is for the idle stop solenoid. Keeps the engine from running on (dieseling) when the key is turned off. You may or may not need it, depending on how you set up the carb. Also may be some automatic transmission kickdown linkage there; can't help a lot with that without knowing the application.

 

Its all cleaned up and on the jeep. need to adjust it, but ran out of daylight. did fire it up for a second. so we have enough fuel to do that.

i have looked through 20-40 pages of google trying to figure out where all the vacuum lines go.

picture #3. thre is a vacuum port just under the...round can with a screw in it..someone had that connected into the round can with screw. (try to keep up with the mechanical talk yall)


the one on top? where does it go? what does it do?

the other ports? i think that leaves two, one constant vacuum, one ported vacuum...maybe

also on the power to the electric choke..is it just a hot wire off of the ignition?

 

Come on Tim, i know you know...


On a side note, i think one of the big reasons i could not get the holley to work at all is the base of it was broken. guess it got overtightened. no way to hold vacuum and run right only connected on 3 corners....

 

The round can is the choke pulloff. Most of my experience is with 2100s. I expect the hose you had there from the pulloff to the carb body is correct. Look in a '80s Jeep FSM to be sure - try www.oljeep.com

The fitting on the bowl goes to the vapor recovery system (charcoal canister).

There should be two nipples down by the base of the carburetor. These are likely ported vacuum. Typically you need ported vacuum for the EGR valve and for the distributor vacuum advance.

The large nipple at the back of the carb goes to the PCV. The nipple from the air horn is the clean air supply for the choke stove. The choke stove connects to the threaded hole on the choke housing.

 

this thing has only the bare essentials. when i got it and as of now, all it had hooked up was the Vacuum advance on the distributor. Just trying to figure out how to get it right. I am not worried about any emissions, SC does not do them.

 

Any nipples that you don't need should be capped.

The choke stove provides hot air to the thermoelectric element in the choke cover. The combination of hot air and electric heating opens the choke. The iron 258 intake manifold has a pocket in the manifold that serves as a choke stove. You can also get a kit to add a choke stove from the HELP pegs at your FLAPS.

 

so if im understanding right..not having the EGR or Charcoal canister are not nessacary, and wont keep the jeep from running right?

but for the choke to work right i do need to use the choke stove.
i assume that the offy intake has a place for a choke stove too..is it just a tap that provides vacuum?

 

Well, yeah, pretty much. I'm not giving you a hard answer because I don't want to write a book. You don't need the EGR or bowl vent, especially since you are going to jet and tune the carburetor to your application.

The choke stove provides hot air, not vacuum. The vacuum comes from the choke cover. Sorry - the choke stove is in the iron exhaust manifold, not intake manifold. If you have headers, you'll need the choke stove kit. You could also convert to a manual or electric choke, and not need the choke stove. Then cap the hot air inlet.

 

i was thinking i had an electric choke..is it a dual heat/electric choke? as far as the electricity on the choke..is that just 12V from the ignition switch?

the hot air is Pushed out of the exaust into the stove. so thats why there is no vacuum.

 

Yes, thermoelectric. Both hot air and electricity needed. 12V from the ignition.

No. No connection to the exhaust. Air in the vicinity of the manifold is hot. The hot air is drawn into the choke cover by vacuum from inside the choke cover.