Setting Ignition Advance

I did not install the HEI, it was on the Jeep when I purchased it, but I bought it a few years ago, test drove it on a flat road, then it sat for about 3 years not running while I worked on it. Now it's back up and rolling, but no power. I'm getting it back from the mechanic tomorrow and will check where exactly the distributor rotor points at TDC #1 cylinder, and I'll see if the points under the rotor are pointing at one of the larger nodes on the pickup coil underneath it, that it's pointing exactly at #1 plug area, and double check that the correct 3 points are missing under the rotor. As far as the compression, I guess I'm gonna go with it for now, look into a short block for this summer maybe. I'll try the starting fluid spray technique and see if I can find anything, hopefully that's it!! Also, sounds like there isn't necessarily anything too concrete to tell about my timing chain cover, since it sounds like it could be all over the board on what would and wouldn't work. I saw someone mention you can get a longblock with warranty for 1600 bucks, where is that from? Is that about the best price around? Where can you get a good shortblock from, and I can just bolt everything for my current top end on it, as it's all newer stuff. This is such a crappy gremlin....hmm.

 

Regarding the timing chain. If the chain is 1 tooth advanced you will have great low RPM power and poor high RPM performance with little affect on compression. If it is retarded your high RPM power will be great, low RPM poor and the compression might be low (been here, too many "friends" helping one night). I think the other posts are following more likely possibilities. Good luck.

 

Alright, so tonite I made what I hope to be some headway for you guys to help me more. I set the distributor timing for initial timing with the timing gun to 0*, then pulled a plug, checked for compression stroke, and set the motor to exactly 0* tdc, too. I noted where #1 spark plug went on the cap, then pulled the cap to see that the rotor was pointed directly at the #1 wire lead on the cap. However, when I pulled the cap, the rotor was rotated clockwise PAST where #1 cylinder plug is on the cap. Its about 1 to 1.5 times the width of the rotor contact metal piece clockwise past where I thought it should be (I guess roughly a quarter to a third of the way toward #6 cylinder wire on the distributor cap). Does this mean my timing chain is definitely off from where it should be, or is this nothing significant?

I checked and my pickup coil and the teeth on the shaft under the rotor are both set up for odd-fire. Another thing is I thought I remembered reading that on #1 cylinder the point on the shaft under the rotor should be pointing at one of the larger sized pickups on the pickup coil, and from what I could tell, it looks like mine is pointed to one of the smaller ones, and if it was to rotate back so that the rotor was lined up dead even with #1 cylinder on the cap, the point on the shaft under the rotor may actually not be pointing at a "node" on the pickup coil at all, but instead may fall between the "nodes". Is this a significant thing, or is this again something that is no big deal?

Lastly, my timing gun is adjustable, and when I initially went to set my initial timing to 0* tdc, I did it, and thought it was actually running quite excellently for being 0* tdc, then when I was getting ready to put the gun away, I noticed it actually had the dial set to 42, which means that I actually had the motor advanced 42* initial timing at idle, right? I didn't rev the engine or anything, but then once again thought this was interesting that the motor seemed to run so smooth and sound about the best it ever has when it was actually set to 42* initial timing.

So, with that new information, what do you guys think now about my power problem, compression problem, and potential spark issue? Any new advice, or is all of this really not important, profound discoveries? Is the timing chain maybe off a tooth or so? Thanks againf or the upcoming suggestions. Sorry for the long post. I will definitely post when I figure this out for help in the archives for some other unlucky soul in the future, lol.

 

Did you check the timing cover. If your timing cover has the degree marks cast in to the aluminum it is the original or proper one. If it has a plastic degree wheel on there, that is wrong and could be a major part of your problem.

 

I didn't check the timing cover, because I wasn't sure what exactly I was looking for. I'm assuming when you talk about the degree marks, you mean the ones I use that I line up with the mark on the harmonic balancer when I time the engine. Those degree marks go from 0 (or maybe even -2) up to 12, then the next line after that says +, and this tab part with the marks on it is made of metal (don't know if it's aluminum or what for sure, but not plastic). I'll check to see if it's a continuous piece cast on the timing cover, or if it's bolt on. Does it sound like this is correct, though, or do I really need to go look at it again and do a good inspection?

 

so, as I said, mine is definitely metal, and I assume it isn't bolt on, so, without looking at it one more time, it sounds like its probably the correct timing cover, then, right?

 

Pics would be awsome if you could get any posted Warloch. I would post some of my setup, I took some last night, but I don't have a website setup at all to host my pics so I can insert them into these threads. Is there a way to download them into the thread from my own document files?

 

Alright, I got under my jeep and looked at the timing mark indicator. It appears to be a continuous piece cast onto/with the timing cover. The bottom of it makes a big sweeping curve from vertical surface of the timing cover to the horizontal surface of the timing mark indicator. Also, it goes from 0* to 14* in 2* increments, and only 0, 4, 8, and 12 are labeled with numbers, and above the 14* line is just a +. The lines are raised and the numbers are raised (instead of etched or stamped), and they protrude out just past the edge of the indicator area, so its kinda like a saw blade on the part that faces the harmonic balancer. I'm only describing it this much so if someone reads it they can say "yep, that's the 225 timing cover" or "nope, that's a xxx timing cover, go get the right one". Also, anyone have any thoughts about my rotor not being lined up with #1 cylinder when distributor and motor are both set to TDC #1 cylinder? That mean my timing chain is off from where it should be set?