My Jeep brake system upgrade

I have been working on my 66 CJ5 brake system for a while now, I started working on this brake system over a year go.. and am now getting closer to having it done ! I am doing the chevy d44 brakes-bracket/thick cj5 rotors upgrade on stock axles d44 rear and d27 front. I am going to post pics.. and they will not be in exact chronological order, because I am already into the build.

Well, I'd like to show off the works and get any input from you if you see something I could do differently that would be better.

Here are my front caliper brackets after spraying some primer on them. I decided to just put some primer on them so they won't rust. The rear caliper brackets, I powder coated them, but I'm not setup to do PC'ng right now - so did not do the front ones. Maybe down the road when I swap the d30 I have in the Jeep.



Heres the new cj5 1-1/8" thick cj5 rotor and d27 turned down hub mated with new wheel studs.



Heres some of the locking hubs, bearings, etc.. cleaned up. I'm not replacing anything here.. the bearings and seals are still in good shape. As I am planning on doing the d30 swap someday - I dont want to put more money into the d27.



Heres the assembly mounted with the caliper to check how it fits. I have read about how people installed a taller race or a bearing spacer to push out the rotor, so it will ideally be in the correct position. I have decided not to go with the taller race.. because: The floating caliper is able to float back far enough so that the brake pad will wear down fully and more. I was able to have enough caliper to knuckle clearance. So, I figured that I do not need the taller bearing race.. unless the caliper piston travel will not be enough - I have popped the piston out of these calipers, and they are pretty tall. I did not measure to be 100%.



A shot of the d27 knuckle after it has been ground down for clearance. The clearance is very close at full turn and the caliper floated all the way in. I tried to grind away the least amount necessary.



My master cylinder setup will be dual wilwood 1" bore racing aluminum single chamber master cylinders bolted on the cj's firewall with a hanging pedal setup. The reason I went with dual master cylinders is because I wanted to use the balance bar setup. This will eliminate the need for a proportional valve. I am still working on the brake lines - I plan on putting all new brake lines. I do want to eliminate the pressure switch in the line and go with a switch on the pedal. I can use some input here on what size brake lines to use. I was thinking of using 3/16" lines all though the system.. but not sure if this will work the best. Should I step up to 1/4" from the master to the split at the line to the calipers ?



Heres a shot of the hanging brake pedals in my jeep. I have fabricated brackets for the master cylinders and pedals. On the engine bay side of the firewall, I have a(approx 10 gauge) plate, the inside of the firewall is(12g or so) bracket thats a "T" shape. With these brackets they sandwich the firewall and makes a pretty sturdy mounting area for the masters and pedals.



I still have plenty more work to do.. I need to fabricate a brake pedal that mounts the balance bar I have and will also bend around the stock steering column.

 

I've been gathering parts to do a disc brake swap like this, so this thread will be a great one to follow. I have a narrow D30 to swap into the front, so all I have left for parts is getting the rear rotors to go with the full floater kit I found a while back.

Good luck on your conversion.

 

I got a little bit more done in the last couple of days.. some pics..

Checked the knuckle fill plug clearance - I am able to use the original plug, I have enough clearance to remove/install it



I cleaned up the frame some. Removed the axle torsion bar stopper off the frame. Also, removed the brake cable bracket. I am going to run a center brake line drop just like the rear axle.



Heres a pic of the torsion bar I cut off the axle.. the caliper was hitting it.



Heres the right side all put back together



I also figured out what size brake lines I am going to run. I am going to use 3/16" brake line all thought the brake system. I am going to use a rear brake hose off a 78 Ford F250.. as it is 21" long and uses 3/16" brake line fittings at each end. This hose is for the drops to the axles.

 

Cool!

Where did you find the best price on the calipers and rotors?

Good tip on the F250 hose.

 

I got the calipers at Knecht's Auto parts here in town. They were 16.99 with a 15.00 core charge. Came with banjo bolt and washers. I bought pins for $2.50 a set. Over at Napa they have the calipers for $19.xx and they come with banjo bolt,washers, pins, anti rattle clips.. but their core charge was $22 or so. I only had 3 core calipers. So I paid the core charge for 1 which was only $15.

For the rotors.. I got them at Napa for $42 each. That was a great deal.. since other parts store couldnt get them or their prices were much more. Also, I've been getting brake hoses at Napa.. their prices are good. I have a Napa part number for the rotors if anyones interested.

 

I've been trying to compile the part numbers and cost in a spreadsheet before I get parts and get started ... any suggestions/help on part numbers, errors, omissions, anything would be great! My numbers include core charges and tax.

See: http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=tTxghLH7HdMEP8NeBIl_bUg&single=true&gid=1&output=html

 

good info, great pics! keep it coming! post up the part numbers if ya could. thanx!

 

I got some more done to the CJ this weekend ! I got distracted by a couple other projects, and put the CJ aside for a while, and finally got back on it. I am almost done with the brake system. I got my brake lines all plumbed in. Here are some pics:

Front axle brake line center drop brake line


Pic of the brake lines hooked up on the front axle


I made my brake hose retaining tabs, and welded them onto the axle. I used keeper clips to secure them. This pic shows the front left, but tierod is blocking the tab.


Here are my master cylinders with the new brake lines




Next, I need to make a brake pedal. This pedal has to be made, since I want to keep the pedal in its original location, on the right of the stock steering column, and I did not want to move the master cylinders to the right anymore which would require alot more modifying to the firewall. So, this peal will have a bend in it moving it to the right. After thats done, I guess I will pull everything apart, and paint the new brackets to prevent them from rusting up.