What would you pay?

Well I'm going out to look at the jeep this sunday. I'll take the camera and get some pictures for you guys. I won't be able to bring it home until next weekend however since I have to rent a trailer.

 

to me mint means not a scratch in the original paint.
no dents
not even the tiniest mod/upgrade etc.
just like grading a firearm except a mint firearm is unfired.
oddly enough after some research the word mint is meaningless in automobile condition rating.

buying a collectable or classic car condition ratings

Anyone who is considering buying a collectable or classic vehicle should be familiar with the universal rating systems so they can be clear on what they are buying. There are basically 2 systems generally used, the most common is the 100 point system. When buying a car from a seller you should request a rating based on this system or possibly hire an independant appraiser who can be objective on your behalf and provide you with an accurate and objective rating. You must keep in mind that the seller of a vehicle may boost a rating 10-20 points to coax a purchaser to buying his car.These ratings are generally the following.
100-PERFECT proffesional nut and bolt restoration complete and perfect in all aspects or a vehicle in absolutely perfect original condition.a car that is brand new on the showroom floor can be a 100 point car!
90+ EXCELLENT a very well or superior restoration or a car in excellent original condition, this would be a near flawless car, not necessarily a restoration where evry nut bolt and screw have been changed.
80+ FINE A Completely operable vehicle that is possibly an older restoration or an original car that shows minimal wear. a car with an 80+ rating is usually considered show quality.
70+ VERY GOOD A NICE and complete car, possibly an older restoration that might be showing signs of age.this rating might be used for a very pampered daily driven vehicle.
60+ GOOD a driveable vehicle that does show wear and posibly may need minor mechanical work or cosmetics.This would be considered a mildy restorable vehicle.
50+ DRIVER or daily driver. this is a complete car that is functional and in driving condition. it will have several flaws but is running and fair cosmetically.
40+ RESTORABLE this vehicle would need restoration of motor, body,interior and or chassis.this class of car should be more or less complete and not require a tremendous amount of parts.
30+ PARTIAL this is a car that would require a tedious restoration, that would requiore a significant amount of parts and labor. This type of car is a very timely and costly restoration.
20+ PARTS CAR this car is an unrestorable parts vehicle which in all likelyhood is not worthy of a complete restoration.there are certain cars that restored can command tremendous value so it is understandable that a few parts cars are worth restoring but there are not many.

There are many auctions in the country that use a 6 point system. the 6 point system is easily translatable from the 100 point system. a condition 1 car would be a 90+ point car. a condition 2 car would be about 80-89 point car.condition 3 is about 70-80, condition 4 is 60-70, condition 5 is 40 to 60 and any car UNDER 40 is considered condition 6.

 

/\/\ I agree. I have just started to lean more on the 0-6 ratting and I would like to also remind that when it comes down to it, no matter what condition anyone fells its in the owner has say on what it's worth. There is a guy that lives north of me that has a nice m381a (I Think) sitting in the weeds for as longs a I have graced this good earth. He will not sell it for a penny less than 3500. I would call it a no. 5 at its best, it will need a nut and bolt style restore. So when it come down to it "this is the one I want no other will do" you will pay a higher price.

 

Well I went and looked at it, I couldn't really get a good picture of it but I definitely want it.


Well here is the good and bad.

Good
Engine ran great when parked, full of good looking oil
Firm brake pedal
Original steering
Front of frame not all hacked up
Frame is good, no real rot, I crawled under
Meyer top, needs a window and some minor rust repair
Fiberglass fenders
Warn premium locking hubs
hat channels looked good, may need replaced
springs all seemed good, sits level except for the flat tire
original seats

Bad

rockers, floors, rear corners, need replaced
tailgate has some rot along the bottom
rear cross member needs replaced
missing tailights, seller may have them
steering has some play, not bad though
u-joints are worn
wiper motor may be missing, he said its probably in his shop somewhere


I think that's it. So what do you guys think? The body rot is easily fixable to me since I have a mig welder and experience with body work. They did replace the driver side rocker, I will strip off the paint to see if it is a puddy job or a welded in panel.

 

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket.

It looks like a good start, anything can be made nice with time and money. Just don't count what you spend on it.

 

I had a 1998 Suzuki rm250 dirt bike. That thing was a money pit. I was always dumping money in it to keep it going and finally got rid of it for $1000. I would guess I spent $3000 on it and when I sold it the bike needed a new clutch, can you say another $400. I said screw it, I want to dump money into a street legal vehicle. R)

 

JMO - IF you like it, and you want to finish it, then go for it. The lack of $1000 won't ruin your life.

However, for most people it will be less expensive in the long run to start with a vehicle in better condition. This Jeep would be a good starting point for a ground-up build, but that's a big project, and most people that want to do that have owned a few Jeeps previously. The ground-up is for someone who knows exactly what they want in a CJ, and will keep very little of the original vehicle. If you want this to end up like a factory vehicle, or close to factory, or you aren't sure what you want in the way of drivetrain and accessories, then IMO you'll be better off spending a few thousand on a driveable vehicle.

 

I can't find any rear corner repair panels. Are they any being made for a 1969 CJ5, will CJ7 corners work? Or would I be better off getting some 18 gauge steel and bending that for the rear corners? I also plan on using 16 gauge for the floors, is that the right metal to use? thanks for the help