another f head/carter question

Please excuse me if this has been covered, but I tried a couple diff searches and did not find what I needed. I have a carter rebuild kit that seems to be for lots of different vehicles so there seems to be a ton of parts I will not need. My question is, how do I check float drop and do I need to adjust anything with the new pump? The directions are very vague. I have never messed with one of these, just the 2g's and holly 390's and even this was kinda new to me. Also what should I adjust the screws at to get back to as close as possible to where it should be

 

Ok I pullled out the fsm and that made me realize I am a complete moron. Where I am not really sure is the metering rod and diagram adjustment. I think its good but ican somneone put into laymans terms how to check this adjustment? Also the float adjustment when its upside down is were I am getting conflicting numbers, one manual says 5/16 and the carb kit says 1/2, also where to you take the measurement, from the bottom or middle of the float? Thanks guys these f head make me feel dumb, I want my 225 back
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Well I idles a thouasand percent better now, but there is still a huge bogging issue under load when taking off, Jeep just want to die right away. I have no clue, time for a petronix and solex I think

 

Float drop is adjusted by bending the pair of tabs on the float so they contact the casting right below where the float pin is inserted.

If you have the spring loaded steel needle and seat set it to 5/16, This measurement is taken on the end of the float right where the radius stops. One way to do this is to adjust the float until a 5/16 drill bit can just roll under the float without moving the float. it will not hurt anything if the adjustment is closer to 3/8 than 5/16.

Metering rod is adjusted to just contact the bottom of the main jet well when the throttle plate is completely closed tight in the bore. To do this you must back out the idle speed screw then hold the pump diaphragm down with your thumb until the rod arm ( piece with tiny spring that holds the rod ) contacts the lifter link. Bend tab on rod arm up or down so metering rod just contacts the casting in the bottom of the main jet well.

Dont toss your carter just yet, Your stumble could be some small restriction in the idle/low speed circuit.

What manufacture is your kit? Do not toss any of your old parts......not even the old gaskets.

 

The kit was a "hygrade" brand and the only thing in the kit that matched my carb was the pump diaphragm. The needle and spring and the other metal needle "thing" that goes in the bigger needle were in pretty good shape so I cleaned them up and reused them. I also used all new seals. I do not think the metering rod/pump is adjusted right after your explanation, I will pull it back apart and check. My old gaskets were beyond salvgable, but everything else I kept. Even though the diaphragm was shot

 

The reason I suggested keeping the old gaskets was to compare them with the old ones to ensure hole locations were correct and not punched a little "off" also to compare and use the right gasket.

Did the fuel valve ( needle and seat ) in the hygrade kit have a needle that has a rubber tip? and does the needle have a small spring with it.

 

Got to bug out for work, catch you later.

 

I did check the gaskets and they were an exact match, the needle that came with the kit did have a rubber tip, nut no hole to put a spring down in, that's why I had to use my old one

 

One quick thought before I get wrapped up in the day. With regard to a stumble or stalling when taking off, If the carb sat for a long time with the fuel evaporated out of the float bowl some varnish or other deposits may have formed inside the carb. It may pay to look closely at the idle/low speed jet and make sure its open, It only takes a few thousandths of an inch of varnish/crud to reduce the fuel flow area of this tiny orfice 15%-20%, Enough to stall out the engine when making the transition from a fixed idle setting to the off idle port just before the main nozzel comes on line.

Its hard to see these deposits sometimes, If you have any doubt soak the idle/low speed jet in some carb cleaner for about 15 min then take a sharpened toothpick and gently insert it into the orfice with a gentle rotating motion to "scrub out " the orfice bore. Be careful not to break off the toothpick, If so you may have to push out the sliver with a small piece of .020 wire .