Setting up manual (non cable) clutch linkage

My 73 Commando came with this setup and I need a little help figuring it out. As my 72 service manual only covers cable clutches..



I'm guessing the angle from the frame bracket to the bell housing is bad. So ill need to move the frame bracket or build a spacer on the bell housing side.
How do I set up the push rods initially?
With the pedal and throwout fork at rest and hope I have enough throw between the top of the pedal and floorboard?

Thanks in advance for the wisdom.

Greg

 

This is a CJ-6, and what I have on hand, but it's a start:





Also, the '72 manual shows a cable, but the '73 Jeeps had a bellcrank. Should be the original parts, and should work ok if everything is lined up.

 

Thanks Tim, those help.
Do you think that my assumption to set the rod lengths so that the pedal and throwout fork are at rest is correct?
And just hope I have enough travel from the stop to the floor board..

 

Re the alignment:

I would expect the nominal location for the bellcrank to be perpendicular to the frame rail.

I would expect the location of the pushrods (from the pedal or to the throwout arm) to be tangent to the rotation of the bellcrank at the middle of its travel.

Does that make sense?

Let's call the rod from the bellcrank to the throwout arm the clutch rod and the rod from the pedal to the bellcrank the pedal rod. You understand that, at the middle of its travel, each rod should be at a right angle to the arm on the bellcrank. This is the tangent location.

The rotation should go from before tangent, through tangent, and past tangent for both rods as the pedal is pushed. The amount of movement for each rod is controlled by the length of the arms on the bellcrank. The longer the bellcrank arm is, the more movement of the rod is needed for a given rotation of the bellcrank.

If everything is designed correctly, all the pieces will work together to provide the movement needed at the clutch end.

You do need to adjust the rods so that you have the amount of slack in the pedal that the manual calls for. There is an obvious transition where the throwout bearing contacts the clutch fingers. Before contact, 1-finger easy on the clutch pedal. After contact, not so easy.

 

For what it's worth, my '73 cj5 has 3 or 4 metal shims between the bellhousing and that end of the clutch bellcrank mount. This brings the assembly square to the frame.

 

I have another question related to this post:

The bellcrank has an arm on each end to which a linkage mounts. One arm is longer than the other. Should the bellcrank be installed so that the pedal-to-bellcrank linkage is attached to the long arm, or the short arm?

Only thing I know is that if the pedal-to-bellcrank linkage is attached to the short arm, the bellcrank-to-clutch fork linkage will travel farther, but will require greater force on the pedal. Other way around, and the travel will be less, but with less pedal effort. Basically, it's a gear-ratio question. I just don't know which way it is supposed to be set up.

Greater pedal effort translates to greater tension and flexing of the linkages, body, frame, etc., and the extra travel gained might be lost to all the extra flexing.

Can anyone answer this question?

 

I checked my '73/258 and the longer arm goes to the clutch pedal rod.

 

x2

Thanks Tim, I think I get it. I'm going to spray some more kroil on them today and try getting the nuts loose.