pinion depth gauge question

... would this particular tool do the job for setting up my front dana 30 and rear dana 44?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66516/?image=large

 

As for the tool it's self,
I prefer the tools that have an actual axle center bore 'Pucks' and a bar across the centerline of the carrier space.

MUCH more accurate that way.

The one shown is mostly for Ford 9" differentials,
Although it 'Can' be used in different applications, it's a PAIN to set up on something like a Dana.
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As to *IF* you need one or not,
That' depends on how many differentials you intend to set up.

Pinion depth (inside bearing spacing) only controls the depth of the contact patch on the gear set.
What most of us do is sand down the old race (outside) so it slips into the case easily, and use it as a 'Set Up' tool...
So you can take the race in and out with just your fingers.

Set your pinion in with the OLD shims, or new shims of the same thickness,
Then set your differential carrier in place...
Paint the gears, and rotate to physically see where the contact patch is on the ring gear...

Put the new gear, slinger, on the pinion shaft so that variable is taken out of the equation,

This will give you DIRECT results you can't get with the gauge.

When you have it about where you want it,
Replace the 'Set Up' race with the new race and check with paint again... Correcting as necessary....
This keeps your having to drive the new race IN/Out to a minimum so you don't damage the race with a dozen insertions/extractions.

WARNING:
Get yourself a COMMON NUT for the pinion threads!
You WILL have to install/remove the outside pinion bearing and put the nut on to see what is going on with the pinion, And the 'Prevailing Torque' (Locking 'Crimp' Nut) WILL damage the pinion threads while you are setting up/tearing down to determine pinion depth and preload shims!

Don't forget to GREASE the threads even with a common nut!
OR... You WILL gall the threads on your pinion!
(ask me how I know that! )
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Once your wear pattern comes up in the middle of the ring gear teeth,
(depth in the ring gear teeth is set by carrier side shims, do don't worry about that yet)

Then you set up the pinion PRELOAD shims.
Use a dial indicator and check for END PLAY on the pinion.

Again, use the NEW bearing,
And sand down the OUTSIDE of the race so you can use it as a 'Set Up' tool.

If you HAVE NONE, add shims until you DO HAVE some end play.

If you have TOO MUCH pinion end play (pinion in and out of case) then SUBTRACT shims until that goes away.
Dial indicator will tell you how much end play you have, and that will determine how much shim you need to remove.

You are looking for between 20 INCH pounds, and 40 IN.Lb. ROTATIONAL DRAG.

Rotational resistance means TWO THINGS.
1. You need to use a DIRECT READ INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH...
(not the 'Clicker' type if you can keep from it)

2. You will need some MIGHTY THIN SHIMS since 20-40 In.Lb. isn't very much and you can go from too much drag to end play in a HEARTBEAT!

You will also be running the Common Nut on and off quite a few times, so make sure you DO NOT FORGET LUBRICANT on the pinion threads!

Once you have the end play/preload set,
Install your seal, and put the yoke on with the 'Locking' nut provided in the set up kit or gear set.
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Then you are down to setting up the gear engagement and backlash.

On a FRONT differential, this is easy since you aren't worried nearly as much about noise as you would be with the full time drive REAR diff...

There simply is no way to use 'Set Up' bearing in this application,
But make it easy on yourself and put the thickets shim in towards the case before installing bearings!
Thin shims have a tendency to let the gear puller slip off and tear up the shims when you have to pull the new bearing to add/subtract shims.

Again, I start with the old shims, but you really don't have to use ANY shims for first check...

Install the carrier in the housing, with finger tight pressure on the bolts.

Pry the new race away from the housing on the RING GEAR side.
Use feeler gauges to measure the distance between housing and bearing race.

Remove carrier, add that amount of shims and test again.
Remember to use the THICKEST shims you need against the carrier housing, NOT on top next to the bearing!

Test in the same fashion, see if you have the correct spacing between ring gear and pinion by checking BACKLASH...
Backlash for a Dana 30 is 0.000" to 0.001".

If you have PRELOAD, meaning the ring gear is being forced into the pinion, time to take some shims out.

If you have too much GEAR LASH, add some shims until your gear lash is correct and the race is in contact with the housing on the RING GEAR side.
.............

Once the lash/shims are correct on the ring gear side,
Then do the long axle side the same way.
Install the carrier in the housing, PRY TOWARDS the ring gear and measure the gap between race and housing,
Then pull bearing, install shims as necessary, and retest.

NOW!
If you have 'Full Time' 4 wheel drive, you need to open the gear lash up a little...

And if you are using USED gears, as in reconditioning a very old diff, but reusing the gear set,
Don't expect the lash to come out quite like it would with new gear sets!

 

I believe you fellas have me well on my way to figuring this stuff out. I appreciate the help!