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'66 Cj5 Tux Resto-mod

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by truckee4x4, Jul 9, 2018.

  1. Sep 21, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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  2. Sep 21, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    @Fireball or anyone - Does anything go between the grill and radiator or do they just bolt metal to metal?
     
  3. Sep 21, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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  4. Sep 21, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Mine was metal to metal with what looked like the original radiator.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2021
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  5. Sep 22, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member

    South Lake Tahoe CA
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    I am sorry for being a little behind on this, but looks like you got some good advice. My problem was the motor is 1" forward, so I had to do some surgery. I ended up with a 3/4 spacer and Flex-a-lite flex fan that just misses the vacuum canister. I am a little worried about timing adjustability, because instead of clocking the vacuum canister dead forward, I moved over 1 tooth clockwise, and the cap might not rotate enough for timing. Anyway, great work, I am enjoying your progress. Funny, 2 tuxes at 2 ends of the Lake.
     
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  6. Sep 22, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member

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    Metal to metal also.
     
  7. Sep 22, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Thanks yeah I could see from your pictures what you had to do, which is pretty darn impressive to be honest.

    And yes other guys on here have answered my question, although I’m still not quite sure about what I’m going to do…hoping that I can swap in a side-port vacuum can.

    Yeah it’s pretty awesome that we’re both working on tuxes, whenever we’re done we need to get them together for a portrait in the forest somewhere!
     
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  8. Sep 22, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member

    South Lake Tahoe CA
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    The distributor on mine was originally bought by my dad, and it is a DUI unit that came with a vac port that pointed forward. It would never work, and we swapped it out for the side port. I don't recall it being too difficult to do. This was before we knew where to buy, or the parts and all the info just wasn't out there. Heck now, my brother sells the correct one. And Sam and I used to scour the wrecking yards looking for '77 Buicks, hoping to find one.
     
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  9. Sep 27, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Thought I'd add a few updates for posterity. I managed to obtain a Buick 231 "side tube" vacuum advance canister from EBay (thanks @Fireball). It was indeed a 15 minute surgery so I have that in there now and looks like I might either clear the stock fan depending on how the HEI clocks into its final resting place, or geet by with a 0.5" spacer.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_80bf.jpg


    I jerry-rigged a way to attach the grille and radiator so I could move forward with engine assembly and fan fitment. Couple of wood screws into some 1x4" through the marker light holes and she's pretty solid.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_80c5.jpg

    Almost looks like it will clear:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_80c2.jpg
    I did get a quote back from Bridget at Sharon's Web for complete restoration of my two Jeep chrome seatbelts - $240 and 8-10 weeks. Not going there not but good to know it's an option if I ever decide to do that.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_808f.jpg
    I think I'm going to buy some webbing and restore these with help from friends at the Roundhouse in the textile shop.

    My next big project is to try and button up the fuel source and return lines. I looked through my archives and found a great pic of how @Johns1967CJ5 ran his down the back of the block and secured to the transmission tower base. So I am looking at doing that. I'm stumped though at the "right" way (where) to do steel vs. rubber. Someone in the EFI thread said no more than 18" of hose, and I don't really have a good mental picture of what moves/what doesn't, and where I should do steel versus hose. Hose is certainly easier, and since this vehicle will never see road salt it's tempting to just run hose and be done with it.

    John's routing:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_8098.jpg

    Here's my version, not complete:

    DnVBHq82TAu7BNTIPXI0UQ_thumb_80c0.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_80c4.jpg
    Having the body off makes it hard to visualize where the tank goes and how to run the lines. I don't want to have to drill holes in a freshly painted tub though, so I might roll my tub over (it's stored sideways on the rotisserie) and put the tank in and run some lines that way.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_80c6.jpg
    I have now purchased (and cut) two lower radiator hoses, and neither look to really have the right bend.
    IMG_0407.jpg
    One other thing I hope to tackle this weekend is to cut a 3/4" hole in the exhaust right after the two sides merge and Tig weld in the bung for the O2 sensor. Have to drop the pipe and take it to the Roundhouse where the Tig machine is.
     
  10. Sep 27, 2021
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    This is why I am not a fan of the HEI in our jeeps. The big cap just makes everything harder.
    If you end up having to install a crank sensor setup for the EFI, a Pertronix setup in a Delco distributor will give you the same performance but take up less space.
     
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  11. Sep 27, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    With you 100% - If I had this to do over again I would definitely look into that. Having a crank trigger would be very nice, and not having to grind the intake manifold to get this HEI to fit would have been even nicer. I do have a spare harmonic balancer in the parts bin....so the crank trigger is certainly tempting for next summer.
     
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  12. Sep 27, 2021
    Norcal69

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    I'm willing to bet that in the long run all of you guys who are currently installing these systems end up with crank sensors to get them to run properly. Not saying it wont run off the tach signal, but ECJ5 Member jwinsley had to with his for it to run properly. His Holley sniper handheld was seeing mixed input signals, just like my Howell unit did. Member Steve's70 installed a Fitech system, his sees mixed signals as well.

     
  13. Sep 27, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Well...maybe I should look into it sooner rather than later. I was encouraged by @Phillykaiser79's success in his videos.

    Was there ever a definitive post with parts #s for the crank trigger on the pulley or is the info in that "EFI Options" thread? I recall part of it coming from a Corvette?
     
  14. Sep 27, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Except Scott with his even fire.
     
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  15. Sep 27, 2021
    Norcal69

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    Holley offers a sensor. I believe that jwinsley posted the P/N he used.
     
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  16. Sep 27, 2021
    Norcal69

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    Scott's always gonna be a bit of an outlier...... :rofl:
     
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  17. Sep 27, 2021
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Blind and Dirty 2020 Sponsor

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    “More or less in line” I say.
     
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  18. Sep 27, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    @jwinsley did post the p/n, quoting it here for my own reference.

    @jwinsley what part of Kauai do you live in? Love it over there. I am originally from Lana`i, gotta love that country neighbor island life!!

    Also - did you fabricate your crank sensor mount from aluminum?
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2021
  19. Sep 27, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member

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    I know you and other guys have put a lot of thought into this, and I know the stock routing, and I don't want to take away from that, but the over-the-top fuel line routing can be a real vapor-lock issue. I can't figure out why jeep wanted to keep the (steel) lines so tight to the top of the block. In my experience, you want to get away from the intake, exhaust, transmission as soon as possible, and allow for free air around the lines. Also, another (non-stock) option for lines is stainless braided flex line, kind of a compromise, but I run it the complete route, more or less down the left frame rail.
     
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  20. Sep 27, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Thanks @timsresort . So your vote would be run lines/hose down the front of both sides of the block and then back through the frame rails? That would be source line from the EFI down past the oil filter as then along/inside the RH rail, and the return line from the LH side of the EFI down where the stock line ran to the pump and back past the Ross box?
     
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