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'66 Cj5 Tux Resto-mod

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by truckee4x4, Jul 9, 2018.

  1. Oct 11, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Yeah I will be doing that after I get paint on the tub. I was talking about the gap where it attaches on the floor. Since it’s a new floor that’s part of the problem
     
  2. Oct 11, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

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    Funny, I don't remember the thread, but oh well. Yes, I went centered over the trans hump. Made a standoff from 2 existing FW holes and then to the underside of the dash. I am sorry I don't have photos right now, I will try and get you some. It works well, is out of the way, and distributes well to both sides.
     
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  3. Oct 11, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

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    You can also just pull the #1 plug and rotate with your finger over the hole. When the timing mark comes up and there is compression, you are at TDC. Also, I just did the drill with the oil pump trick and was concerned about the lack of pressure, until I noticed the drill was spinning on the (round) attachment I use for priming. After tightening, I had plenty. Also if you thread a mechanical gauge into the oil pressure port on the block, you can see it while spinning the drill.
     
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  4. Oct 11, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    The guy who rebuilt the engine emailed me back today and said “every engine that leaves our shop is at #1 TDC” but if I wanted to check to do exactly this. He also said i could crank the engine over with no fuel/spark for about ten seconds and that should prime and bring the oil up to pressure.

    I think after feedback from the Holley forums and speaking with their tech support I have a fairly solid plan in place for how to start this up with the Sniper and get it up to break in RPMs, just need to find the time and solicit some helpers to help with hands on stuff.
     
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  5. Nov 6, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

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    Grant, sorry it took so long, but here are a few shots of my heater. Hope this helps.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Nov 27, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Got the tub back off the frame, and have spent some quality time trying to weld up any last holes I can find, and remove two years worth of flash rust here and there so I can send this off for a gallon of bondo and then primer and paint. I wish I had the space to learn how to do this last part, but I just don't, and it's too cold out so I have to pay a pro for their expertise. I will maybe one day have an insulated garage/shop and thus get to learn body work on my next Jeep. Or start with a tub that's in better shape. This one's just going to be lumpy and bumpy in places under a nice fresh coat of red paint. But hey - it's original!

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_845a.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_845e.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_8460.jpg

    If I had this to do over again, this body would have gone to the scrap heap and I would have found a better one to start with. But, I did learn a lot about how hard it is to do metal work with average to below average welding skills.

    I did get the new tires and wheels done and on, and I am quite pleased with how they look. Had some help at Les Schwab:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_8490.jpg

    WmWcoXebT26SRUXLPyG0Aw_thumb_849e.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_84a0.jpg

    I'm accumulating a giant to do list of items on the frame that need attention before the body goes back on. #1 is to move the fuel filters/EFI pump from where I tucked them into the frame rail, because there's next to no chance of my ever being able to change them with the body on. #2 being the brakes are spongy and there's brake fluid leaking from where the tube nuts go into the proportioning valve. So I either A) didn't do the flares right, or B) didn't tighten them down enough, or C) both. #3 the tailpipe is going to smack against the rear RH leaf spring perch.....and so on and so on. There's about 100 pieces of masking tape with reminders all over the chassis. Out to the garage I go.
     
  7. Nov 27, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Almost forgot, the other big issue I need to tackle is what to do with this roll bar that was on my Jeep when I bought it in 2008. I’m wondering if I should throw it back on, or if there’s a way I can tie into it to try to add a hoop that goes in the passenger compartment:
    CF3E8C91-A53F-41A5-84F8-AC1F5F5CF728.jpeg
     
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  8. Nov 27, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

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    Roll bars and cages have become a problem. We used to be able to buy the rear bar, and the components for the full cage. No more. I asked a jeep shop vendor/fabricator what a cage would cost, and holy crap, the price was way out of my range. (By about a factor of 4). And steel, 1-3/4" DOM is around 15 bucks a foot, depending where you buy it.
     
  9. Nov 27, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Did you look at extreme custom fabrication? They had some options, albeit expensive ones.
     
  10. Nov 27, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

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    Yes, I had seen that. $350 to upgrade to DOM. Whew.
     
  11. Nov 30, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Small step, but it felt good to get the lights into the grill: F7D23DFC-2541-4216-8F97-F5F15B4DCD44.jpeg
     
  12. Dec 4, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Well today was a milestone for this build project, I loaded the tub up and took it down to the body shop that’s going to paint it for me down in Sparks.
    918D5131-45AB-4B25-BEAD-067331B447B2.jpeg

    it might look wonky but I spent a good amount of time building a solid wooden rack under the jeep that attached to the body mount holes for when we picked it and put it in the bed of my pickup. I can tell you though that once it's covered in fresh paint, i will not be bringing it home this way!

    They will have their work cut out for them due to rough shape it’s in that’s for sure! It’s been a long slow fun process doing all the panel replacements, and I had a great chat with the owner when I dropped it regarding that element -fun- which is what this is all about ultimately!

    I’m excited to have a few weeks to finalize the work I’ve done to the brakes and the steering and driveline, with any luck I’ll be getting a freshly painted tub (and gallon of bondo!) back in early 2022.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2021
  13. Dec 5, 2021
    montanacj

    montanacj Member

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    Great work so far and congrats on the milestone
     
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  14. Dec 5, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Cheers thanks!
     
  15. Dec 9, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    I did an assessment of the chrome Tux parts situation this week, and wrote a bunch of different shops all over the country with a description and pictures of all of my Tux parts.
    34tTQxXhRqKO8kqTsOsVPg_thumb_8517.jpg
    Estimates ranged from $800 to $1200 to $1600 for all the parts shown above. Turn around times were 6 weeks to 6 months.

    I decided to get a face-to-face estimate at the local plating shop in Sparks yesterday when i was down there for work, and they came in much lower for the bulk of the parts.
    https://www.abcplatinginc.com/

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_853c.jpg

    For $290 they are going to strip and re-plate the hinges and catches and mirror mount. I held back the grab bar because it's not that bad and was quoted at nearly $200 more. Decided to see how these guys do, and then maybe sometime later in 2022 I will be able to afford having them do the front and rear bumpers.

    Yesterday I got the remainder of the steering parts that I need to finish the single-piece tie rod swap, so I'm looking forward to doing that this weekend. Then, we have our first real big multi-day storm forecast, so I'll be making room in the garage for the wife's car!
     
  16. Dec 9, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

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    I'm surprised there's not a white line painted down the middle of my garage. The greasy side, and the princess side.
     
  17. Dec 17, 2021
    SoCalNickG

    SoCalNickG Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Are they quoting you hexavalent chrome or trivalent chrome? Hexavalent chrome is the old school chrome that was used forever. Hex chrome is being regulated out of California. We have converted 80+% of our capacity to tri-chrome and are only continuing hex chrome for existing customers (at a premium price). $290 seems like a good price for what you got quoted. An additional $200 for the grab bar alone doesn't make sense. Very little labor to polish and plate the grab bar vs all the small parts. Labor is our largest factor in pricing, the way we calculate prices. Keep in mind that everything needs to be stripped (typically copper, nickel and chrome; minimum of nickel and chrome) to bare metal then polished before it goes into the plating tanks. Everything that is stripped (plus the chemicals used to strip) is now a hazardous waste that needs to be dealt with.
    The days of dumping it down the sewer are LONG gone.
     
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  18. Dec 22, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Checked in on the body shop today and they are making serious progress! Pretty happy with where this is at given how it was when I gave it to them.

    DC2794D1-F82D-4808-BA26-7433848E417F.jpeg DD6FE35A-DA30-49B7-8334-30C71D61E355.jpeg 83162356-87B8-4A0A-8130-6191F5A4D616.jpeg C7CA02BC-B664-47A4-8A53-E8B4E90A3926.jpeg
     
  19. Dec 22, 2021
    timsresort

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    Looking good!
     
  20. Dec 23, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    X2!
     
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