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Accelerator Cable Bracket

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Stewed3153, Apr 8, 2009.

  1. Apr 8, 2009
    Stewed3153

    Stewed3153 New Member

    Naperville, IL
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2005
    Messages:
    32
    I have a '73 CJ5 with the 232 in it. I put an 2bbl intake on it from a '81 scrambler. I also found a MC2100 to use with the intake. I need to find an accelerator cable bracket that will attach to the aluminum intake and allow for a rear pulling MC2100. Any suggestion?

    Thanks,
    Stew
     
  2. Apr 8, 2009
    73cj5

    73cj5 Member

    Maine
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2004
    Messages:
    905
    i reworked the stock part from the 1bbl to work. I think i bent the bracket and drilled new holes so it attaches to the threaded bosses on the intake.
     
  3. Apr 8, 2009
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    I used the bracket and bellcrank from a Wrangler. This is the same as the bracket that was used with the aluminum manifold. It pulls down, but it's easy to modify the carburetor to work with a down-pull.
     
  4. Apr 8, 2009
    Rick

    Rick Member

    Hanson,Ma.
    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2006
    Messages:
    287
    Tim, you wouldn't have a picture of your linkage handy would you? I have a pull down that needs the change for the MC2100 as well. I think the picture would help myself as well as Stewed3153, if he chooses that route.
    Thanks
     
  5. Apr 8, 2009
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    Yeah, I have some good pictures somewhere... ok, found them.

    [​IMG]

    I made a plate that attaches to the side of the carb linkage with a couple of screws. I used a hardware kit that I got from summit that included a pair of ball sockets and ball studs. I made a new link rod with the two ball sockets and a piece of all-thread. The top end of the link goes to one of the ball studs mounted in the new plate (nylock nut you see here). The other end connects to the ball stud that's already part of the original linkage (painted green).

    The shoelace was replaced long ago.

    Here's another pic from a different angle:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2009
  6. Apr 8, 2009
    Rick

    Rick Member

    Hanson,Ma.
    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2006
    Messages:
    287
    Hey thanks! Looks like a pro fabrication. I was originally going to make it a rear pull like the 1 bbl but like the suggestion you offered instead.
    Thanks again. :beer:
    Rick
     
  7. Apr 8, 2009
    Brieoff

    Brieoff Member

    TX
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    310
  8. Apr 9, 2009
    Bob75CJ

    Bob75CJ Member

    Southgate, Mi
    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2007
    Messages:
    206
    I like Tim's spring bracket better.
     
  9. Apr 10, 2009
    Brieoff

    Brieoff Member

    TX
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    310
    Its all about using what ya got :D
     
  10. Apr 10, 2009
    Bob75CJ

    Bob75CJ Member

    Southgate, Mi
    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2007
    Messages:
    206
    I do like your choke stove, looks like it would work pretty well. How does it? I have seen a few people try to figure a way to do that, looks like the solution. Could that have been banded to the exh manifold though? Or does there give a little more time for the engine to warm before the choke opens?
     
  11. Apr 11, 2009
    Rick

    Rick Member

    Hanson,Ma.
    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2006
    Messages:
    287
    I could be wrong, but I think I've seen that setup sold at a FLAPS as a repair kit for defective choke manifold heater tubes. I know I made a copy of this for my Carter choke. I stuffed the small housing with fiberglass insulation to hold the hot air and it always worked like the original setup.
     
  12. Apr 13, 2009
    Brieoff

    Brieoff Member

    TX
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    310
    I got that choke stove setup from Summit, but it seemed pretty generic.

    So far it works great. The little metal plate is curved to fit the exhaust pipe, put I suppose you could fit it anywhere. I just used the enclosed pipe clamp to clamp it to the exhaust pipe.
    I used a flare tool to flare the end that goes into the carb, fits really secure. Works great, I don't even have the electric part of the thermo electric carb hooked up.
    Carb opens up fully when the engine warms up.

    Yeah, my old choke stove was toast, and there didn't seem to be any other replacements (other than manual).
     
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