Clutch wont disengage

I just finished installed a new clutch (friction disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and clutch fork). I started the 5 up today and tried to put the transmission in gear but the clutch wont disengage and there is no more adjustment in the linkage. I can see the clutch fork is bottoming out against the inside of the bellhousing when the petal is fully depressed.

I took the inspection plate off the top of the bellhousing and the throwout bearing is engaging the pressure plate and pushing the fingers about .25 inches. Should that be enough movement to release the friction disc?

When I replaced all these parts I was very careful to make sure the new parts were identical to the parts I removed.

Thanks,
-Dean

 

I have found a new clutch plate will sometimes be sticky until it wears in a little. Have to force the gears a bit for a day or so.

You could try starting it in gear, clutch pedal down, it may slip enough to allow that until the friction plate breaks in.

If not, I'm not certain after that, but are there adjusters in the fingers?

 

Did you dis-assemble the bellcrank or the rods from the pedal to the bellcrank or rod from the bellcrank to the clutch fork. If you did, it's possible that you need to re-adjust those rods. It's been awhile since I did this, but have someone depress the clutch while you note the total travel of the ear on the bellcrank that has the rod connected to the clutch fork. Let's just say it's 1 inch. You will want to split the difference so that the ear is 1/2" back from TDC. That will give you max movement on the release rod. If I read your post correctly your TO bearing is only moving 1/4". That's no way near enough. Sorry if this explanation is confusing. I had a similar problem years ago and eventually got it adjusted correctly. Maybe some one on the Forum can explain it better. Did you confirm that the TO bearing is the exact same length as the old one?

 

Thanks for the replys,
I did make sure disc was installed correctly. And if the 1/4 inch of movement on the throwout bearing isn't enough to disengage a clutch then I'm in trouble. When the petal is pressed I can see the clutch cable pulling the cable end of the clutch fork firmly against the inside of the bellhousing so there is no way to get more travel out of the linkage.

How much movement on the throwout bearing is usually required to disengage a clutch?

Also, I was wondering if the disc could be rusted to the flywheel? How hard can it be to break that free?

Thanks,
-Dean

 

It's been way too long since I looked at one of these, so I don't really remember how the fulcrum is set up on the clutch fork. Is it possible the clutch fork is not properly seated?

As I recall, the clutch fork has a dimple which rides on a ball-ended post. I don't recall if there's any adjustment in this post, or if it's possible for the fork to not be sitting on the ball.

 

Actually 1/4" may be enough. I know that when I setup my hydraulic clutch I was shooting for a minimum of 3/4" on the outboard end of the clutch fork. Given the ratio of the clutch fork, that may indeed translate to only 1/4" or so on the inside. Did you take the bellcrank unit apart and re-assemble as part of your new clutch project? Did you confirm that the new TO bearing is exactly the same overall length as the original? This is a critical dimension.

 

The clutch fork is seated seated properly and I did have the complete linkage and bellcrank out of the jeep. It was all cleaned up and rebuilt before it was reinstalled.

And the TO bearing was the same dimensions as the one i removed. I still have the old stuff, I guess I'll double check all the measurements to make sure.

This week I'll get the rear driveshaft installed and try to start the jeep in gear with the clutch in to see if it's just rusted. I hope that's the case as I really don't want to pull the drivetrain out again.

-Dean

 

If you don't have a driveshaft in place, it may well be that there just isn't enough drag to make the plate slip. After break-in you may find everything is normal.

 

+1

I've heard of this happening before.

 

I'll pick up some u-joints and get the shafts in later this week. Hopefully that solves the problem. Could be an interesting ride if it doesn't... maybe I'll get the brakes finished before I try it.

Thanks,
-Dean

 

The lack of a rear driveshaft being installed could definitely be your problem. Good luck. I bet it will shift just fine after you put that in.

 

So I put the driveshaft in the CJ5 and with the transmission in gear and the clutch pedal fully depressed I can start the jeep and let it idle. But there is enough friction on the friction disk to spin the transmission if I put it in neutral and there is no way to get it back in gear.

The linkage is adjusted and the clutch fork is coming to a hard stop against the inside of the bellhousing. It seems like the solution is a longer throwout bearing retainer (the is quite a bit of space between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is engaged). Are they available in various lengths? Anyone have any part numbers/suppliers?

-Dean

 

Just did my 64 same problem I had the linkage that goes from the frame to the trany. reversed not allowing the throwout bearing to move properly.

 

I’m still trying to sort out my clutch linkage problem. Something within my bell housing is not right. I installed a brand new 9.25 inch clutch. It went in smoothly, I triple checked to make sure the disk was installed the correct way.

The other parts I installed (throwout bearing, bearing carrier, clutch fork, and pivot stud) all fit well and are stock 62 CJ5 parts. My clutch fork will just barely make contact with the fingers on the pressure plate when the pedal is depressed and will not disengage the clutch.

It seems like my problem could be solved with a longer throwout bearing carrier, a longer pivot stud, or a different clutch fork. Take a look at my lousy sketch to see what I’m talking about. It’s not a linkage adjustment issue since the fork is coming to a hard stop against the bellhousing without disengaging the friction disk.

Does anyone know if a longer bearing carrier or pivot stud exist and where I could get one? I thought about just shimming the stud out with washers but I’d rather not do that if I don’t have to.

Thanks,
Dean

 

Are you working on the Perkins Diesel
Jeep could have used differant fork and ball stud.
If you still have the old parts check them to see it thay are the same as the new ones.
I have never seen new parts listed for the Perkins but might be wrong

Andrew

 

Yeah, it is the perkins jeep that I'm working on. I did have the old parts but the box they in was actually stolen out of my driveway along with a few motorcycle wheels by the scrap metal guys that drive around my town. So I no longer have a way to check.

All the critical parts on the new clutch fork line up properly. Would it a safe practice to bend the clutch fork to suit my needs? Seems like that might be getting into a bit of a gray area.

 

I would not bend the fork, look for a taller ball stud.
Check with NAPA thay should have a catalog you could look at that shows dimisions some thing for aChevy or Ford
Andrew