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Won't start when hot????

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Sledgehammer, Mar 9, 2009.

  1. Mar 19, 2009
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    Ya want me to come and get it?
     
  2. Mar 19, 2009
    matthew johnson

    matthew johnson Major League Infidel

    northern california
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    does it have a solenoid on the starter AND fender? if so that might be a problem.
     
  3. Mar 19, 2009
    Vanguard

    Vanguard Take Off! Staff Member

    Vista, CA USA
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    I think it's heat soak. Pretty common on older gm where the exhaust runs too close to the starter. You should replace the starter and add a heat shield.
     
  4. Mar 19, 2009
    CO64CJ5

    CO64CJ5 Member

    Littleton, CO
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    Battery in the back means you have relatively long cables. This means you will need heavier gauge cables to reduce the voltage drop.

    One quick test to see if it's a cable or connection problem, you could try connecting jumper cables from the battery to the starter and solenoid. That is, jumper the battery negative to the starter mounting bolt and jumper the battery positive to the solenoid's battery terminal.

    If this helps, it would suggest the problem is in the cabling, either the wires are too skimpy or the connections are deficient. If it doesn't help, it proves nothing.

    Did you try the test suggested in post #10? That is, connect the starter directly to the battery? You should be able to see the bendix work (or not) this way.

    Have you checked the battery voltage when you're "cranking"? It should not dip too much. A quick way to check this would be to turn on the headlights and observe how much they dim. If the battery and cables are adequate, the lights should not dim too much.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2009
  5. Mar 19, 2009
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    I thought heat sink too.
    He did add a heat sheild and a think he may have even put thermal wrap on it.

    I still wonder on the cable size, if it's to small and the batt. is rear mounted it'll cause issues.
     
  6. Mar 19, 2009
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    You can also use a multimeter to check for voltage drop while cranking when it's hot.
     
  7. Mar 19, 2009
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    I'll even try it out for you. R)
     
  8. Mar 19, 2009
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Just for clarification, there is no solenoid on an L-head starter, only the terminal for the cable. The solenoid is up on the fender. Some older starters had a combination solenoid on the starter that served double-duty; they acted like a fender-mounted solenoid AND they were a part of the drive gear that kicked the starter pinion gear into the flywheel when you hit the key.

    On a flatty starter, there is a centrifugal "Bendix" mechanism that kicks the pinion gear into the flywheel when the starter motor spins. Once the engine speed exceeds the starter speed the gear retracts back away from the ring gear and all is well. Sometimes that gear will hang up and not engage when it is hot. I would suggest pulling the starter and lubing the starter Bendix drive assembly. Make sure the drive gear can slide back & forth freely, and that the big spring in there is in good shape.
     
  9. Mar 19, 2009
    CO64CJ5

    CO64CJ5 Member

    Littleton, CO
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    Flattie -- I missed that. Is this 6V or 12V? 6V will need much heavier cables.
     
  10. Mar 19, 2009
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    It's a V6 odd fire guys. ;)
     
  11. Mar 19, 2009
    Vanguard

    Vanguard Take Off! Staff Member

    Vista, CA USA
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    Yep. I checked before posting. The L-head start should be on the opposite side of the engine from the exhaust. :D

    I didn't see that he added the heat shield, but if he hadn't replaced the starter before trying the heat shield, I think that would be my next step. You could also pull the existing starter and take it in to the FLAPS for testing.
     
  12. Mar 19, 2009
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    We talked via e mail about a heat shield being possible cure.

    Think it had a new starter also.
     
  13. Mar 19, 2009
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    After thinking about this some more I have the answer!!!

    Got to be the bearings in the mufflers. R)
     
  14. Mar 19, 2009
    CO64CJ5

    CO64CJ5 Member

    Littleton, CO
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    In my experience, when the muffler bearings go out, you can't hear the starter anyway. But then, you can only detect failed muffler bearings when the engine is running.;)

    Do we know if this is a 6-volt system or 12-volt? I'm guessing 12V, because I don't know if there were any 6V V6's:).
     
  15. Mar 19, 2009
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

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    Yea it's a 12 v.


    It does run just will not resart when hot.
     
  16. Mar 19, 2009
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    <shrugs>
     
  17. Mar 19, 2009
    mdbeck1

    mdbeck1 55 Willys CJ5

    Oklahoma
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    I'm pretty sure it's not the timing. Mainly since it starts when cold but not when warm.


    It sounds like the starter gear is not engaging the flywheel when it's warm. Since you have tried several versions of starter/solenoid and it starts when the engine is cold I have to ask if you are SURE that you have the correct starter?

    Does someone else out there have the same engine setup and do you know what the starter part number is?

    Is it physically possible to move the starter gear out all the way and check the amount of contact that the starter gear has with the flywheel (you'll want to do this manually with the power disconnected otherwise you could lose a finger, eye, or some other important part)? If it is a very small connection when cold it will change some when the engine heats up.

    I've got to agree with some of the other posts though. Line loss on long electrical lines can and does cause a large voltage drop. The change in temperature will make that change different (I forget which way it goes) but you can get a cheap multi-meter and check the voltage at the solenoid when the vehicle is cold and again when it is warm. If you don't have enough voltage the starter gear may not be extending all of the way. Also check the connections to the cable at both ends and make sure that they are corrosion free. Old battery cables also have acid and corrosion travel up in them and lose the ability to conduct electricity.

    Yeah, check your voltage first when it's cold and when it's warm. I'll bet you find a significant difference in the readings. Then I'd investigate the cables and/or connections.
     
  18. Mar 20, 2009
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    With the 225 GM starter which has the solenoid attached to the starter which mechanically engages the bendix and connects the power to the starter windings for rotation, you do not use a secondary solenoid mounted on the fender. This is a further voltage drop to the solenoid on the starter and will cause reduced travel of the bendix in its forward movement to engage the flywheel. This solenoid is very dependent on full voltage applied, for it to work properly.
     
  19. Mar 20, 2009
    mdbeck1

    mdbeck1 55 Willys CJ5

    Oklahoma
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    So if I understand this correctly a drop in voltage might push the bendix partially out and MIGHT let the starter turn over?
     
  20. Mar 20, 2009
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

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    Yes.
     
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