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clutch throwout arm resting against collector flange

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by incynr8, Feb 21, 2009.

  1. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    I have no idea what brand/model headers are in this jeep. They are in frame.

    The driver's side collector flange and pipe meeting allow the clutch throwout lever to be resting against them I am getting a series of play before engagement allows the arm itself to move at all. Probably not good, definitely not ideal.


    At this point I'm wondering what to do.

    I guess my first question revolves around what is the usual collector diameter for a 304 header used in a Jeep. Perhaps mine are way too big. Seems too big to me actually.

    Also if this common among some cheapie hated header.
     
  2. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    without a picture, can you heat the tubes and move them down or away slightly without effecting the exhaust too much ?
     
  3. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    possibly down. Anymore toward the frame rail won't be fun.

    They leak anyway and I wonder if I should tear them out and go shortys or stock, since they need to be removed to make that heat/bend move anyway.
     
  4. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    Well I removed the driver side header. It was interfering with the clutch arm.
    They were junk headers, leaks at collector and at almost every port.

    Guess it's decision time on exhaust.

    Ideally I'd like to go back to manifolds or shorty headers with either dual downpipes to the exhaust I have or a Y pipe to single (anyone know if the 'stock' replacement Y pipe and rest of stock exhaust is available for 72-75 304/t15/d20?

    And more bad news, the dipstick tube was cracked near base and didn't survive my removal attempt, so now I get to make a tool, seems like m7 might tap into it, or drop pan and get it out from inside.

    Project is going to be taking a bit longer than expected... :)
     
  5. Bob75CJ

    Bob75CJ Member

    Wifes waggy dipstick tube is loose and she needs a new one. Not bad on the cj but a real pain in the Wagoneer.
    The stock manifolds worked geat with my built 304, didn't slow it down any. Seemed to flow good enough. did weld the airpump ports shut with some knickel rod after heating the manifolds up.
     
  6. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    If I had stock I'd go back, no manifolds. Anyone know someone selling a Y pipe/headpipe for 72-75 w 304? I see 76 up advertised, andd actually wonder if that pipe fits?

    Looking to see if a prebent solution exists for me, or if she gets towed with fresh shortys/manifolds to a shop for bending.
     
  7. wicked4x4

    wicked4x4 HEY, watch the paint!

    i just put inframe headers on mine. having that same issue. clutch arm touches collector flange.
    my headers (yes inexpensive ones) are flowtech in frame/full length.

    i like that they are out of the fenderwells and clear of rocks, but bumming on the slight rubbing of clutch arm.

    i am curious if the hydrolic clutch linkage is a fix for this? anyone know?
     
  8. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    I would suggest if the arm itself is not changed, the method of moving it will not affect the interference.
    To me it affected top of travel feel and was taking up slack. Probably short term tolerable, but keep in mind mr PO torqued nothing correctly on this machine, so therefore I had extensive leaks anyway.