Opinions Wanted- 231 in Flattie

Hey Guys,

I know this topic has been discussed 100 times over but..... I just found a rebuilt 231 for a price I cannot refuse. I was 99% done with my 5 year rebuild of my 48 with a used L-head. That was my weakest point on the whole Jeep. The topics that are non negotiable is the V6 is going in its just a matter of the very best possible combination using the t90 (I know the best is an SM420). I have done the searches and think I know everthing on the swap but I want to know your opinions on the following:

Engine Placement- Moved forward vs. keeping same mounts. (leaning on leaving same mounts)

Engine Placement - If moved, does driveline need to be modified or just lose 1.5 "?

Headers vs. stock manifolds

Flywheel and clutch? Particaular one needed

Radiator? Will stock one be sufficient if outlets modified or should I replace and make brackets?

Mounts, placement and Novak vs. bolt on

I know there are a lot of combinations. I am just looking for honest opinions of best combination and what everyone thinks. My plan would be to also go with hanging pedals and power steering at the same time.

Thanks in advance,

Bryan

 

Good Comments. I agree on most as well. Any other opinions? I figured this topic would get people going????

 

I have nothing to add that hasn't been said by Warloch.
You might look at the battery box and decide whether it can stay in stock configuration or modify it.
I had to modify mine, but only after several fittings of the engine, trans and t/case.
Not a big deal, but a short belt may be needed on the alternator.
Just one of many, many things to look at and consider closely.

What steering system are you planning on, stock ?

 

I would go ahead and do a power steering conversion at the same time. Probably doing hanging pedals all at the same time. Easier to do at the same time than later.

 

I found that I can't get the engine high enough to allow the headers to clear the outside of the frame. I bought the project apart and the AA mounts were welded too low. I'm going to box them to gain a few inches. Also, the oil filter is really close to the axle, consider a remote filter.

I like the stock pedals but am a fan of the Wilwood circle track style upgraded MC mounted where the old one was.

I'm doing a Quartermaster hydraulic slave for the clutch. These are also favorites for roundy-round cars

Radiator -- I'm going with a L-head stocker with a modernized electric fan system. Many have used the L head radiator with no complaints.

I think the most common comment on the V6 conversion is that there is no set way to do it and just plan it out.

 

If you can find the stock engine frame mounting brackets for a 225 V6, this will make mounting the engine a snap, you can find the bracket off of a CJ5 or any jeepster commnado that had a V6, someone on this site should have one or know where you can get a pair. Sure makes mount the V6 easy as it puts the engine in the right location in the frame and all you have to do is get it in the right location to the fire wall.

 

x2
:iagree:

 

Did you mount the wilwood's through the floor and right down where the old one goes? How well does that work? Is it pretty clean mounted?

Bryan

 

I used the existing frame location, one bolt will connect in a original frame hole, then you will need to drill a hole for the second. Also, buy a dual cylinder system with a remote fluid reservoir up on the fire wall.

 

Thanks Warloch, You have some good documentation of your builds. How about motor mounts? I have a set of bolt on motor mounts I picked up a while back. Do you think theese style could just be welded into place or should I scrap them and go with Nowaks?

 

NovaksR)

 

One other thing that I don't see discussed about installing a V6 in a flat fender are the front springs. When I had my first Jeep back in 1971 I installed a V6, and did not install some high lift springs in the front, so one night I was going down the road and hit a big pot hole. Needless to say the front drive line game up and hit the starter and knocked out the front drive shaft and left in lying on the road. Lucky for me no damaged occurred. So when I went to the 4x4 shop they said to me, don't you know that you need to have some high arch springs put on to clear the starter? Well I bought a pair, and that cured that problem. After that I went to work in that 4x4 shop and did several engine conversions while there, and the best engine swap for a flat fender is the V6 and the Chevy II 153 inline four.

 

This Jeep is the one currently pictured in my avatar that I want to put it in. It has 2.5 superlift springs and sprayed on bed liner underneath along with about a 3/8" rubber body mount so it lifts the body probably a halft inch to an inch above the stock height. One of my other flatties has a 225 that I bought last summer off craigslist in Denver. I had to redo some wiring and some other small things to make it road worthy. That conversion used the stock crossmember for the tranny/tcase but they moved it forward an inch or so and redrilled holes. The mounts are fabbed up but overall not too bad of a swap. I cant hardly complain though because when I went to get it for $1500 bucks found it had the V6, w/ warn overdrive, full floating dana 44 rear, front lockouts, and 11" drum convs. Not a bad score ey?

 

The pedals, power booster, master cylinder, brake light switch, and clutch m/c can easily be sourced from a mid 80's Cherokee. Runs about $50 for everything at the local pull-a-part. No need to do any of the engineering that Jeep paid millions to do already. Also makes replacement parts easy to come by. Grab a tilt column and a saginaw box while you are there. The stock steering shaft out of the same cherokee can be used for another $5. Get a pitman arm puller and grab the dropped pitman arm off that cherokee while you are there. For about $200 dollars and a day worth your time you can get all the parts you need and save a lot of cash!