1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Resurrected Dauntless overheating

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Tom in RI, Jan 18, 2009.

  1. Tom in RI

    Tom in RI Member

    I'm going through my '66 and fired it up today hoping that it was ready to run. But I think I have an over heating problem and need help trying to figure next steps.

    The jeep (30k original miles) has been stored 20 years so I rebuilt the fuel system, pulled the plugs, oiled the cylinders and hand turned the engine a bit to be sure it was all lubed.
    I changed all hoses and the thermostat and removed the radiator. The radiator was checked for flow and cleaned by a good shop. They also checked the cap.
    The old antifreeze looked really good and there was no corrosion anywhere that I could see. Fresh 50/50 was poured in. The waterpump spins ok and doesnt have any play.
    By shorting the temperature sender I could see the guage was working but I dont know how good the sender might be.

    So I fired it up.

    It took a while for the temp guage to lift off Cold.
    Then it started puking some antifreeze out the overflow. No problem since I had filled it.
    But after some time the temp guage was still very low and I could hear popping and feel popping with my hand on the upper hose.
    Shut down - I could hear bubbling in the upper hose - boiling?
    I put some heavy tarp and rags over the cap and twisted it off slowly to relieve pressure then put my trusty kitchen thermometer into the coolant and it was reading 190.
    Fired it up again and after a while I am hearing that boiling sound again.
    Then the temp guage suddenly pegged to HOT.
    All stop - I called it quits and rolled it back into the garage. Working outside in the snow is no fun.

    I figure:
    I better connect a real temp guage.
    Check for blown head gasket (compression test?)
    Check the new thermostat
    what am I missing? could there be an air pocket in there?
     
  2. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    These are usually very easy to fill with the radiator cap being by far the highest point in the system. But, what you describe certainly sounds like your system may not be full...
    Could be a head gasket too, though.
     
  3. Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sounds like you had an air lock in there. Temp gauge showing cold (after warm up) then suddenly jumping to hot is when the air lock opened up and allowed water to flow around temp sender. Temp sender will not work with hot air or steam. Has to be emersed in hot water. That has been my findings anyway. Mine did the same thing and I jacked up the front end tilting the front of motor upwards and it belched out a lot of air and took more water and was fine after that. HTH
     
  4. cookieman

    cookieman Member

    When you changed the thermostat,did you put back with air hole it up? most themostat have a little hole or air valve that need to to the top
     
  5. sdcj6

    sdcj6 Sponsor

    Take the thermostat out and try again, it sounds like it is overheating and you have no water flow ( theromostat installed backwards). Without the thermostat when you first start it you can take off the radiator cap and see how much water flow you have. As it starts to warm up reinstall the radiator cap and let it come up to temp.
     
  6. Tom in RI

    Tom in RI Member

    Thanks everyone
    The T'stat did not have a hole but I remember a thread where someone did drill a small air vent. I see where this is going with the air lock and how that would mess with the temp sender.

    I'll try to get out there this week, pull the T'stat, try to burp the system and give it another shot. Then replace the T'stat.

    Will let you know....
    Tom
     
  7. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Drilling a hole in the thermostat or the position of an existing one or a "jiggle valve" does not matter with these because there is a bypass hose.
     
  8. Dbarker

    Dbarker KE5MOF

    Good luck, sounds like a bad tstat, or as others said... AIR.