73 cj drum to disc questions

So now it is time to fix the brakes. The pass side is grabing and pulling to the ditch when the brakes are applied. So do I rebuild the stock drums or source the parts needed for disc. Can I buy all the parts needed new? Thanks for any replies. Stock dana 30 73 cj.

 

I'm doing a disc swap as we speak on my 73'. I sourced knuckles, caliper mounts, calipers, rotors, brake booster/master cyl and proportioning valve from an 83' cj7. Looks like it is going to go together fine but ???? I've got the 73' torn down and am in the process of POR15ing everything packing bearings, gathering tools ect. While i'm in there I also replaced the ball joints PITA and doing a tie rod flip.

 

If you rebuild the drums they will work quite well.

The easy upgrade would be to drill the drums (just search for drilled drums), which would help a lot with water fade after stream crossings and such.
And then if you wanted you could put a vacuum assist on the MC, also an easy search.

Disks are great, but also more trouble and expense. Lots of threads about that as well.

I rebuilt mine to stock: new MC, new lines (definitely get new lines for the rubber parts of the line), new slave cylinders, new shoes, and new hardware. Have the drums machined if they're cut into.
Now the old girl brakes just great.
Bleed it well, and adjust the shoes once everything is together and you shouldn't have any trouble.

 

So you say I should just run the drums? I had to do a panic stop last summer and none of the lines blew. I thought they might. Some lady pulled out right in front of me and I hit the brakes so hard the rear view mirror moved. Scared the hell out of me and my litttle girl int the back. I don't mind the drums but it seems like the cool thing to do is put discs on. Can the drums be adjusted from the back of the plate or do I have to take the drums off to adjust? Thanks.

 

the 11" brakes when maintained and kept in good shape will do just fine.
You should be able to lock up all 4 wheels no problem.
They should adjust from the rear, with out drum removal.
I've seen some instances where you may have to knock the adjusting slug out of the backing plate to access the adjuster from the rear; other than that, if well maintained and kept up, I see no reason to ditch them in favor of discs.

 

X2 The 11"s work well. If you haven't, pull the drums off and inspect the brakes for wear and broken springs. Pulling the drums only requires removal of the wheels, and maybe a few taps from a hammer. You can also scope out your adjusters so you can understand how they work and how to adjust them.

I'm going through a disk conversion now, but i'm swapping on an entire axle, so i can't help with the conversion in that respect. They only reason I'm doing it is because I got the front axle with new warn hubs, a lock right, and disks as a package deal when i was bought a new rear 44 for to replace the one I thrashed. I never bothered too much to actively seek out the disks alone because even with 33"s my jeep stopped pretty well on the old 11 inchers. Just make sure you keep them adjusted and they will serve you well.

 

i've always liked drum brakes myself, one of the nuances of older cars I enjoy. I'd suppose disc and power are better in water/mud, but I tend to not change things very far from stock. A Jeep is the first kind of ride it will be easier for me not to be a 'stock freak' but even then I'll look to retain alot of it's characters by keeping many systems as delivered.
I also find disc without power way less fun then drums without power.

 

Well then it is settled. I will stick with the drums and fix whatever is going on with them. It will be alot easier anyways. Thanks to all.

 

The biggest thing is keeping them adjusted, so that the majority of the shoes make contact with the drum.
(Well, overall maintenance is number 1, but after that)

They should have adjusters built in to help keep them snug.

Like Dante said, just a few love taps on the edge of the front side of the drum with a hammer (not hard!), opposite sides and the drum should pop loose.

 

Well finished the brake job. All new master cylinders and all. Stainless brake lines. She stops good now, no more pulling and the pedal is up to the top. I also put new spicer joints in and checked the wheel bearings. Now on to the parking brake...... Thanks guys

 

Update. Parking brake is a must so I bought one off flebay for a 95yj. It is clean with no rust and even had the bolts. My tub is pre 68 so I had to drill some holes for the cable and mounting bracket. Also there is a bracket that needed to be made to hold the cable underneath by the transfercase. It took acouple hours but with all new cables and hardware it works great. I am very satisfied with the drums and the parking break set up. On to the next project!